DME - relief!

[Sehrgut]

Vielen danks - many thanks to Zach (punchthefish) here on Pelican! And also to you fellow Pelicans for helping me get my 1984 944 NA up and running again. He recently sold me a used DME after all my attempts to get my car running again. My Dad has been in the hospital and I drove 200 miles a day to visit him (in a Blazer). My Porsche's alternator was going out and I installed a new voltage regulator hoping to solve the problem - no luck. Since I didn't have the time, I let a local shop install a rebuilt alt. They called when they were completed but said the car was running rough. Funny it ran fine when I brought it in. after the "new" alt, car would start fine, idle, start surging, and die. I tried everything I could think of and even tried y'alls suggestions to no avail. It was the old DME. I installed Punch's replacement and whammo! - problem solved! Anyway, I thought you'd enjoy a few pics of how the shop left my engine after their "diagnostics". Could a new alt. install have fried my old DME? It's just good to have my Little Paradise back in the road again.

[mytrplseven]

Good grief. Looks like the shop gorilla was working in there. It does point one thing out however. The rubber in these old cars deteriorate with age and confirms that we should consider replacing all the rubber bits. As far as the speed and reference sensors and associated bracket, It looks like you're ready for replacement of the connectors before the car fails on you completely. Also seriously consider relpacing all the vacuum lines with the silicone vacuum lines as you likely are having some vacuum leaks.

[nynor]

if they installed a new alternator and didn't unhook the battery before starting, i can see a massive short occurring and frying the DME. from the pictures of the carnage, i wouldn't doubt that they fried the DME.

[88Silver924S]

I hope the rubber fuel line in the third photo down does not date from 1984 (31 years old)!! If so you might be well advised to replace them before they leak/burst and cause an engine fire.

There are several write-ups: some go OEM; others go high-end with braided stainless steel covered hose or others "Dremel" off the old collars and keep the original steel fittings and just replace the old hose with fuel-injection rated hose and fuel injection hose clamps (not worm gear style). The hose which will crack and fail with age.

When I replaced mine a few years ago (I followed this style: SharkSkin - Shark Attack Round Thirty Four - Fuel Lines) the 20+ year-old hose was showing cracking mostly from the inside out. The modern Gates Barricade Fuel Injection hose has a liner to resist the more aggressive oxygenated (e.g. ethanol) modern fuels. Good luck and have fun.