Using SeaFoam Product
 

You may have read my other post regarding my noises coming from the cam tower and possibly stuck oil pressure relief valve.

I looked at the Sea Foam site and there are several ways to use this product and I'm looking for advice from a 944 owner.

The website states to get this product directly into the intake system by pouring a specific amount into the egr or brake booster hose - for this, do I do this with the engine running?

Also states to pour directly into the engine oil - I can figure this one out.

I would just like to hear the best practice for using this product on my car.

Also, I'm going to do all the other recommendations that were mentioned in my other post (i.e., compression test, etc..). I'm also going to take this time to replace the oil cooler seals, and pull and clean (or replace) the oil pressure relief valve - any advice on this one. My car is an '88 so it uses the newer style pressure relief valve - can this be cleaned (a new one is $350)?

Thanks :)

Getting it into the intake will clean your valves but not help with any lifter problem. If you are trying to clean carbon off your valves, then you can pour it into the intake system in various ways such as a vacuum line. To clean any lifter problem, pour it directly into the crankcase with the engine oil. Basically, you try to get the Sea Foam where you want to clean. If valves, then pour it into the intake system somewhere, if you are trying to clean your injectors, run it through the fuel system, if you are trying to clean the oil passages including the lifters, then run it in the oil. Of course follow the directions on how much to use.

Got it - Thanks

You should have the 1 piece OPRV. Porsche had a TSB-19017 (Oct 9, 1990) that explains how to clean and replace the O rings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202934371.jpg


Get a new aluminum crush washer or it will drip. Typically you will see one green O ring at the bottom.
To do a complete job there is another inside-same size.
From Pelican parts:
999-707-144-40-M100 Oil Pressure Relief Valve O-Ring, Inner or Outer, 2 Per Car, 944 (1987-On), Each [view in parts diagrams]
Brand: Genuine Porsche

NOTE: Early 1 piece OPRV "O" ring numbers are different: external 999.707.145.40 and internal 999.707.146.40------thanks to 2Tight.

Here is a repair procedure if you wish to replace the inner:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202934483.jpg

Good Luck,
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

Thank you - that's fantastic:)

I bought the seafoam product at lunch and put it in the crankcase. I drove about 6 miles and the pressure has returned to 3 bar at idle - the clacking reduced but it's not gone.

My plan of attack:
Compression test - to rule out head gasket leak. Plus, I've noticed a very faint whistling sound - that could be the oil pressure but who knows.

Replace oil cooler seals & remove & clean oil pressure relief valve - the oil seals will need to be done at some point so I'm going to just do it now.

I would like to inspect the springs - as someone mentioned that one of the double springs could have broken causing the valves to still close but not quick enough. My only problem is that I don't know how to remove the cam tower (if this involves belt tension). So, if after the oil pressure relief valve cleaning - the problem is not gone, I may need to take it to a shop. The belts may need tensioning anyway due to it's been 15k miles.

Thanks for everyone's help - I hope I can answer someone elses questions some day.

The compression test may help you figure out if the valve springs are a problem or not. Give the Sea Foam a little more time to work...may still fix the clacking.

That is a good bulletin to read John.

Thanks Razorback,

Tidybouy, IMO hold off on doing the oil cooler seals for a while. Not saying don't do it but do everything else first. Do you have any reason to do it now? Milkshake or a lot of oil seeping from the case? This is a "Dam, I need to do it over job!" Do you have the alignment tool for the OPRV? I have done it without and many others have-BUT you can never be sure without it. Even a bit off and you will bind the OPRV valve. Like Clint Eastwood said, "Are you sure you want to try?" (or something close). Opinions??

Give the Seafoam time to work.

John_AZ

I'm going to buy the alignment tool before I do anything with the oil pressure relief valve. I was planning on doing the oil cooler seals because I thought this was a related project (i.e., you had to remove the oil cooler to get to the pressure relief valve)....is this not correct?

No.
Tip: be very careful on the 2 wire oil pressure electric switch. The posts are hollow and brittle.
Mark the wires. If reversed the oil pressure guage will PEG.

John_AZ

Thanks John - you're saving me money...

The relief valve can be removed without taking out the oil cooler. If you dont remove the oil cooler, you dont even need the alignment tool. Its only necessary to line up the oil cooler housing on re installation.

BTW, removing the cam tower requires removing the timing belt from the cam gear and removal of the fuel rail. Other than that its a pretty straight forward job.

If you do need the alignment tool, let me know.

You know to change that oil ASAP, right? Like, no more than 300 miles or a few days of just sitting in there... I think it's on the bottle.

p3

Thanks, I'm going to change the oil on Saturday. The website says 500 miles - I will only have about 40 miles.

Bookmarking

indeed a good thread..

Have a can sitting in garage. Just waiting until two or three days before an oil change. This has been superbly helpful.

Followup?

That sounds like a vacuum leak.

Well,. my OPRV came out when I pulled the oil cooler housing today,..and I did not see a O-ring on the end of mine,...stuck in block perhaps....Plus I cant get the oil cooler out of the housing yet, but just wiggling has not work ?? I think I have the updated valve I have a 86N/A... with the large 5 point bolt...FM