87 924S oil cooler seals- & where is the engine # location

[iamchappy]

I found oil in the expansion tank the other day and am quite certain it is the oil cooler seals, a couple of ?'s.

I drained all of the oily coolant from the engine and radiator via all of the locations i got off of the Clarks garage site. I also removed the water pump to radiator hose.

I drained all of the engine oil and it was clear of any coolant.

?1- what should i use to flush the radiator and block of the oily residue.

?2- Oil cooler alignment tool, what is needed can one be made, any specs, where can they be purchased.

?3- Oil pressure relief valve, and alignment tool. I know they made two different valves a one piece and a three piece, as far as i know mine is still working fine, again
if i have a three piece valve where can i get an alignment tool.

?4- where can i find the location for the engine # so i can determine what oil relief valve i may have.

I just purchased this car for my son and the next day i discovered the oil coolant problem. There is only 4000 miles on it since the previous owner put a timing belt, water pump, oil seals, alternator, battery, fuel pump and new steering rack in it. I am
hoping after this fix the car will be sound for many miles.

Another option if i cant source the tools i would remove all the parts necessary to get to the oil cooler, tow the car down to the dealership and have them install the oil cooler seals and oil cooler portion and i will reassemble the rest.

[mikepellegrini]

A long time ago when I was dealing with that problem on my 83 NA, I did a search on Clark's forums and came up with what sounded good: use a weak solution of TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) along with a pinch of laundry detergent.

It worked good for me.

Let it run till the thermostat opens (with the heater control on hot), then drain. Repeat once, then fill with water, run till the thermostat opens, drain and repeat a couple more times till the water that comes out is pure. Then refill with coolant.

The only way I found to get the residue out of the expansion tank was to take it off and (in the kitchen sink), fill it full of water and dish detergent; shake it for a while, then drain - repeat until all the gunk is out.


I don't remember how I aligned the cooler inside the housing; I do remember agonizing about that. I think what I did was guess on how many shims and where, and then go for it (luckily I guessed correctly). There is no alignment tool, per se - just a straight edge (okay, if you wanna get technical, you could use a micrometer to measure the distance).

For the OPRV (mine is old-style) I lucked out and found a small socket that was exactly the right size (and put it on an extention). I put the housing on with bolts loose, then just moved around the housing till the socket seemed to not bind, then pulled out the socket and put in the OPRV, and tightened everything down.

Pelican does sell an alignment tool: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/944M/POR_944M_ENGoil_pg2.htm#item6

Or like me, you can just find something that's the same exact size as OPRV and use that.

Make sure you pressure test your cooler before you reinstall it!

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/lube-10.htm

According to Clark's:

... Early 1987 924S used the spring and piston relief valve as well. Early 1987 engines which began production in July 1986 received a new one piece pressure relief valve.

You oughta be able to tell which is which.

Also be sure to change the oil - if there's any indication of moisture at all in the oil, then flush the system and re-fill.

Congrats on your purchase - you got one lucky son!

[John_AZ]

Chappy (?),
You have done all the correct steps and it is good to hear that the crankcase did not have a coolant/oil mix. I could review a few things but here are a couple of posts.
One good for parts: Reply #16 is a personal favorite
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=419211
One good for tech bulletins (old):
http://clarks-garage.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2057&highlight=shimming+oil+cooler+housing

The job is straight forward. Dirty, crappy, no room for big fists and you will get crap in your face. Dad, get dirty!
Tips: When you remove the cooler housing, mentally watch how it is positioned between the headers and frame. Why spend hours cursing later?
The oil pressure sender nearby has 2 wires. If you reverse the wires the oil presure guage peaks with key in. Also the posts are hollow and old and brittle. $45 to $60 to replace.

You should have your son do this.

Good luck,
John_AZ
1988 924S 62K
1987 924S 112K
1970 914 1.8, 1977.5 924, 1979 924 Memories, RIP

[iamchappy]

That is a great link! Thanks, still cant find the stamping of the engine #....

[paper1122]

I have the spring and piston relief valve, how does it go back in?

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by iamchappy

That is a great link! Thanks, still cant find the stamping of the engine #....

quick reply with pictures!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=341625&highlight=engine+identification

John_AZ

[mikepellegrini]

Originally Posted by paper1122

I have the spring and piston relief valve, how does it go back in?

You just put the piston on the spring and the spring into the holder/bolt part, then screw it in. The problem is that if the housing isn't aligned just right, then the piston will bind, and the valve won't work; hence, the alignment tool.

All the alignment tool is is a piece of metal the same diameter as the OPRV.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by paper1122

I have the spring and piston relief valve, how does it go back in?

paper1122,

I took this a bit of wit-sorry

Did you get lost?
let me help you
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?p=4072335#post4072335

John_AZ

[paper1122]

I got it figured out, I know, I can definately be a bit slow. Everything went back together fine for me tonight.

[iamchappy]

Well i got everything out and have given it a good look over. The last person who installed new gaskets looks to of assembled it wrong, the part of the oil cooler that goes into the housing had 3 shims on it plus the plastic washer, the correct way as i understand it as viewed in the diagram is, the shims go on the side that goes against the crankcase. Also they had used some silicone with the gasket.
I didn't remove the lower transmission line taking it out(Automatic) but will make things simpler if i do going back in, I also dropped the sway bar.

My Pelican parts will be arriving sometime tomorrow.



Oh, thats my other car the 914 turbo....

[John_AZ]

Chappy
Now that I see (914 6 Turbo) that your skill level is near master mechanic, I will offer a couple more BTDT tips.
1. Oil the O rings #11
2. Did you get 2 O rings- for the OPRV? Inside part #1 and bottom of OPRV
Instruction Link:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=392661&highlight=ring+OPRV
3. Flush and pressure test oil cooler for leaks
4. I use copper RTV in the case groove for the big gasket. I use an artist paint brush and apply a thin layer deep in the groove.

Very nice 914-6 Turbo.

John_AZ

[iamchappy]

Yes on the 2-O rings for the OPRV,

I usually use silicone grease on the o-rings.

The groove in the case does have some minor pitting in a few spots so i will RTV copper it with a paint brush.

Ok I will pressure test the cooler but i am expecting it to be OK......

Here is a link to the 914 build which has been dragging on and on.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=75381

[John_AZ]

Chappy (Dave),

Very impressive work! Color choice is great.
....

John_AZ

[iamchappy]

Tested the cooler with my lung pressure, no bubbles.

[iamchappy]

Got it done, i flushed the system five times but could not get clear water out of it.
The first flush through i used about a 1/2 cup of HE laundry detergent with water. Then water
the next four. I finally gave up on a clean clear flush and added my antifreeze- water- and water wetter.I will put some miles on it and dump it again later.

[John_AZ]

Nice work!
I have used a few drops of dish soap, some have used TSP=a pinch. Did you remove the rear block plug to flush? I have read that some take off the hoses and wipe the inside clean and flush the radiator well. Be careful, I do no use Prestone super HD flush or equivalent. The seams of the radiator will leak and all hose connections will drip.

Again nice work.

John_AZ

[iamchappy]

TSP made me a little nervous because it is a Phosphate so i went with straight laundry soap. I would think dish soap would get all foamy. I pulled top hose and there was some creamy residue in it, just think of how the radiator must look then.

When i drained the engine the for the first time i removed the block plug drain bolt but not during the flushes.