Removing the head
 

so i am removing the head in my 87 944S 16 valve,i am trying to get to the pressure reducing valve i am kinda stuck now...
i am reading on removing the cylinder head and gasket..
http://www.clarks-garage.com/

i am confused on the CAM-01, remove the camshaft assembly.

i am at the bottom step 13 and step 14..i dont know what bolts its talking about..because i think it manly focused on the 944 8 valve?

so should i remove the cam bolts and take the cams out of the head? or should i leave them on and try using flexible socket to reach the head bolts under the cams?

i know i have to first get the 3 bolts lose on the side...

The only way to do it is take the cams out first. Since you don't have the factory cam removal tool loosen each cam cap a few turns at a time, paying attention to which lobes are actuating springs (more pressure). The idea is to not put any unnecessary strain on them because you loosened a cap with a spring actuating lobe while leaving a non-actuated cap on- i.e. the spring pressure wants to bend the cam.
Also notice the little numbers on the cam caps and the end caps corresponding to their assigned location on the head. This will help you put them back in the right places upon reassembly.
You need Volume 1A of the factory workshop manual dedicated to the 16V motors. Torque specs are different and it shows you how to do the cams.

Just take the head off on my 87944S, Yes you have to take the camshaft out to take the head nut off I did it as mistertate out line it and take the both cam together with the chain and all leaving the position off the chain as it was (marking the position chain to the tooth).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227511931.jpg


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Bud

87 930 Black
86 951 Black
86 944 N/A Part Car
87 944S White
83 944 N/A Black
83 944 N/A White Auto

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227512147.jpg

Before you take off the cam caps also note which side of the cam the numbers are on. These caps are NOT reversible, it will stop your engine from turning. Guess how I know that.

This is how I did it

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227549957.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227549982.jpg

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Bud

how do i take off the sprocket thing to get to the 3 bolts on the side,to get them lose??

Sprocket thing ? Are you referring to the triangle where the distributor rotor sit ? Or are you referring to the cap holder (stopper)?

i am talking about the big roller that holds the belt..i took the belt off,now i have to remove that roller to get to the three bolts on the side..since i dont want to use a allen key its striping..can i unscrew the biger bolt behind it? i guess i should use another ranch to hold the cams so they dont spin?

No that is not a bolt it is just a washer that shape like a bolt so you you can put a wrench on it and use a 12 teethed allen key (cheese head). I will take a picture off what I mean.
Or we can use AIM ?

yes no problem, my aim is bigbiker1991

Here is some pictures.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227557746.jpg

Tools I use to take it off

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227557801.jpg

Rear view

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227557833.jpg
Front view

Take not the triangle sprocket has a cut to fit the woodruff key on the spline and it is fix. And on the front view the sprocket for the belt has a wider cut, that is why I put a mark (Silver) on the oval hole off the sprocket, so I can put it back they way it was (Distributor timing) if not ISome say I have to use a dail meter to set it.

problem is i cant get the bolt off its starting to get striped

Hey You may need 8m 12 teethed allen for the cams

I think now the word you're searching for is... AAAARRRHHHGGG!!!

That looks like pretty much the same bolt as the 8v. Once they start stripping, it's all over... If it hasn't been apart for a long time it takes even more torque to break it loose. You're probably going to have to drill it out, or easy-out it if you're lucky. I stripped mine out once trying to do the cam seals and the project spanned 2 days and 3 or 4 drill bits to finally drill the head off. That bolt sure is hardened when it comes to drilling it and it was just barely accessible for a drill, at least on mine. Maybe a dremel and a tungsten carbide bit might work too.
I can't tell you how furious I was by the end of that one. :mad:

In case you're interested, the bit that lasted the longest by far was the DeWalt high speed steel carbide bit that cost like $10 a piece at Lowe's. 3/8" works best.

i got it off finally was not too hard took a lot of time..i just drilled a little bit on the side of the bolt and tryed to cut the bolt off,but i stoped halfe way,thats when i drilled on the side of the bolt a little then i took pliers and just got it off....hopefully i wont have the problem with the cam bolts..