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Brando
 
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944 engine removal

I'm about to remove the engine from a 944 automatic. I'll be removing from the top and in searching this I see that there may be a problem with a cerclip inside the bell housing that needs removed before the damper and flywheel? Well I also have another complication which is the engine is seized up.
Who has good experience that can tell me what I'm up against?
Thanks

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Old 03-20-2015, 10:18 AM
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I did it a little while ago. There is a good writeup on removing from the top here: Living with a Porsche 944: Engine out the top - Easy Peasy
Look at steps 4 & 5 to get around that clip issue. I used an engine leveler on the hook so I could tilt the engine on the way out. Made it alot easier.
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:21 PM
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Brando
 
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Thanks. I'm reading.
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:01 PM
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I pulled my engine from the top but I still had to lower the rack/cross member in order to get clearance for the oil pan. Others that pulled from the top didn't have to do that.

Because of that, I'm reinstalling from the bottom when the time comes.

Bruce
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:16 AM
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I just did it from the bottom. The circlip is a PITA. Does the engine turn at all? If it doesn`t then you`ll be in trouble taking off the ring gear if i remember correctly.
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:34 PM
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Brando
 
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It doesn't turn. I'm going to have to remove the oilpan and look at what's hanging up.
Old 03-22-2015, 04:42 PM
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It might be easier to drop the whole drive line. It's not bad as everyone say. I did it in a gravel parking lot, twice.
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:34 AM
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Brando
 
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So I guess I'll be removing the oil pan to see whats stuck, removing the cap or rod cap to free up whats keeping it from turning. Then I can access the flywheel bolts.
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:18 PM
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Brando
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rufrob View Post
It might be easier to drop the whole drive line. It's not bad as everyone say. I did it in a gravel parking lot, twice.
tell me more?
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:25 PM
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I got a 944 2.7 auto for free and bought an S2 parts car. First I dropped the engine on the S2 then the engine on the 2.7, then driveline on the auto then the manual driveline. I only have 1 floor jack and I was working on gravel with relatively low stands. If you have a concrete or asphalt and 2 strong jacks and high enough stands then I would say drop the whole drive line.
I could tune my engine to get to the flywheel bolts, even then 1 stripped and I had to drill it out. and the circlip even on a good day is hard to remove
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:20 AM
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To remove the oilpan the engine needs to be very high to xclear the cross member, which you wont do because the driveline is still attached. Jack the car up so that the front spoiler is at least 25.5 inches off the ground, and lower the cross-member to enable oilpan removal. Then take the engine out from underneath. Put the engine back in already mounted on the cross-member.
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:36 AM
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Stupidest car I've ever worked on. I have to say I hate this car. Over engineered piece if crap.
Now I see why I was quoted over $2000!!
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:35 PM
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Did you get over it?
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:24 AM
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I think the 944 is engineered quite well. Its fairly easy to work on with patience. I think your biggest hangup is the seized engine. If you aren't able to rotate it then you may have to bite the bullet and drop it and the trans and torque tube together.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:53 PM
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Brando
 
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No not yet.
I have a nice lift, assorted jacks, all kinds of tools and I'm sitting here not knowing what to do.
Now I'll admit I've been really busy, and I'll assign just a few minutes here and there but my problem is this:
Engine won't turn over
I cant reach the engine mount bolts under exhaust manifold
I won't be able to take the bell housing off without turning the engine.
I can't turn the engine till I remove the oil pan
I cant reach the oil pan till I remove the engine. Or at least the sub assembly but I cant do that because engine is attached to the bell house.
My assumption is that I'll have to lower the engine down some gaining myself some clearance for the mount bolts to be removed and then drop the sub assembly gaining access to the oil pan. Then I can open up to see what carnage it keeping the engine from turning.
I'm sorry I said that before, but I really feel strongly about this crappy situation.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:55 PM
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Brando
 
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I cant believe we posted almost the same time. Yes this is what I've been thinking. It's a problem.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:56 PM
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Yeah man, you're in a tough spot. The seized engine is adding a lot of unnecessary steps. The exhaust manifolds come off easily though. Two 13mm nuts per upper flange and three bolts on each lower flange. Taking them off should allow you some much needed access.

I would honestly just remove the front cross member and drop the engine, trans, and torque tube out as one unit and work on it while its on the garage floor. It will be so much easier than trying to mess with it there.

That or remove the front cross member and then remove the oil pan and see if the engine has a spun bearing that's causing it not to turn. Hopefully its as simple as that and not that the rods have "welded" themselves to the crank due to a spun bearing.

You could always remove the front cross member and the oil pan and remove the cylinder head and remove the pistons and rods from the crank, driving them through the block and out the top if you're having issues with the rotating assembly. Even loosening a main bearing cap may help it enough to spin to allow you to remove that clip.. Just throwing some ideas your way man..
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:02 PM
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Hey Quatttro? I saw you online and wanted to ask you how the engine pull went, but the time I registered you were gone.

I just bought a 1984 944 that someone worked on and couldn't get it running so I'm going to pull the motor and start from scratch with a full rebuild to make sure all is good.

I want to pull from the top and wondered how putting it back in is as far as lining up the pilot bearing and clutch spline, or did you end up pulling the bell housing too?

I appreciate any advice you may have, thanks.... Ed
Old 11-19-2016, 04:51 PM
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Brando
 
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It went horribly because I ended up giving up and sold the car.
My car had the automatic trans and if I remember right I wasn't going to be able to easily separate the trans and engine. I sold the lot of it.
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Old 11-19-2016, 05:31 PM
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pulling from the bottom is easier.
I've done it both ways and won't do it out the top ever again.

Old 11-27-2016, 07:48 PM
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