Starter Problem, stays engaged?

[mistertate]

Has anyone ever had a starter stay engaged then kill the car at idle by either seizing or a lot of friction? My car died this morning barely making a sound then when when I tried to restart it made an electrical grinding noise- not flywheel grinding. I had someone turn the key and the timing sprocket doesn't move (slight movement then nothing). I'm at work now trying to figure out my game plan to make a track day thursday. I don't think it's timing belt because I didn't hear any awful noises. Thanks

[hpservertech]

Easy test is to just remove the starter and have autozone test it for free. And then hope you didn't grind off any starter ring teeth.

[kdjones2000]

I had the return spring in my starter drive or solenoid die on mine a long time ago. The result was that the car started just fine, but the teeth remained engaged with the flywheel while the car was idling. It didn't lock the engine up like you are indicating.

A new starter (No rebuild kits available) and life was good again.

I hope your problem is that simple, but yours sounds like it is a bit different.

Good luck,

Keith

[mistertate]

It was timing belt. Belt had less that 20k, three track days and about 10 autocrosses on it. Probably going to throw that Arnnworx tool in the garbage, either I'm too stupid to use it right or it's just plain junk.

[many944s]

Well, I wouldn't call the 920x junk... but the readings are somewhat, subjective. I actually tested the 920x along-side the 9201, and the tensioning is fairly close, though the 920x NEEDS to be "snapped" for a proper reading, and even then, it can be off by a significant amount. It may not be a "dead-nuts" tool, but it is better than nothing.

If you need a rebuilt head, drop me a line. I currently have 3 N/A heads ready to go!

-Nick

[mistertate]

Yes I figured the 920X was subjective which is why I think in the future I will use the Porsche tool. Originally when I got it I tested against the 9201 and found it to be accurate. Thing is, I checked that belt three weeks ago, prior to my last track day. I knew it was loose because it was slapping the cover. So I check it with the Arnnworx thing and it indicates that it's too TIGHT. So maybe I didn't snap it right, hence the disclaimer about me being too stupid to use it right. So I just tightened it a bit, don't remember what the values were, since it's not an absolute value like the Porsche tool it's irrelevant. If I'm too stupid to use it right I don't want it. The Porsche tool gives objective numbers.
it's especially irritating because I replace the belt every year, less than 15k miles. Thanks for the offer on the heads but this is 16V baby, extra ouch.

[many944s]

No sheit "ouch"!

Sorry I didn't look more closely at your signature line. Let me ask around, I was planning on picking up a couple of "S" heads to rebuild and keep in inventory, I think I have a line on one that is decently priced. I will also look into individual valve pricing and PM you with some more info.

-Nick

[Ez-Bone]

I too am having a starter problem. Thing is, I JUST bought mine and when I go to start the car, it's a gamble...

I'll turn the key and if I'm lucky it will start up as it's supposed to. otherwise it will 'click' and I will have to turn the key again and hope it starts afterward or just keep turning the key till it finally does start.

I'm no electrician or anything of that degree but what is the problem here? all my connections are tight and correctly connected. The starter is an OEM replacement (so Autozone said) from Duralast. Could it possibly have a wrong solenoid on it or something?

[AKCJ]

Ez, most of the time when you get just the click on startup it's due to lack of voltage caused by low battery or bad connections. I know you said you have tight connections and a Duralast but have you checked the voltage or voltage drop? I think you have to go ahead and do that test. I've seen fairly new batteries go bad (usually abuse) and I've seen tight connections that were poor electrically. Maybe load test the battery & remove and clean the connections. How old are the battery cables?

Is the alternator kicking out juice like it should? Maybe the brushes are worn out?

Doesn't seem like it would be the ignition switch because you are getting the click.

[Ez-Bone]

Originally Posted by AKCJ

Ez, most of the time when you get just the click on startup it's due to lack of voltage caused by low battery or bad connections. I know you said you have tight connections and a Duralast but have you checked the voltage or voltage drop? I think you have to go ahead and do that test. I've seen fairly new batteries go bad (usually abuse) and I've seen tight connections that were poor electrically. Maybe load test the battery & remove and clean the connections. How old are the battery cables?

Is the alternator kicking out juice like it should? Maybe the brushes are worn out?

Doesn't seem like it would be the ignition switch because you are getting the click.

All good points, and I will check all connections as soon as possible to ensure all are tight. The alternator... well I had Oreillys do a test for me (the man used a Midtronics meter, MDX-P300 series, if that makes any difference) and the results came back as

Battery Test:
Good Battery
Volts: 13.14v
Measured: 773CCA
Rating: 850CCA

Starter Test:
Normal
Volts: 11.90v

Charging Test:
Ok
Volts: 13.74v

With those numbers I don't feel so easy with them so I will be working on that as soon as possible.
Like, I can't let the car sit for more than a week sometimes or even a few days due to chance of the battery being flat and it's random. Sometimes I can leave it alone for a long time and still be able to start it up but sometimes it drains itself somehow.

As for the wires, They are the same ones that went on the car from factory so I guess replacing or building a new harness would be on my Urgent Needs List very soon.