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Desertt5
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 391
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Tools required or not ?
Will be doing belts and rollers very soon. Do you really need any special tools for this job or can it be managed without?
Also plan to do the tensioner pads on my S. Any thing special required?
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Some people insist on the tension tool for the T-Belt. I do mine by hand as do many others.
Not sure about the tensioner pad on the S. Now is a good time to take care of any leaking gaskets around the rotor and the cam as well as any leaking seals in the front end. You will already be in there and the belt will be off so the cam is not really that much more work. Most people do the water pump now too.
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John '87 944 N/A (first Porsche) '95 E-350 Diesel '03 S-Type Jag 3.0 '03 Taurus SES '06 Eddie Bauer Explorer RIP SoCal |
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Toofah King Bad
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I would be hesitant to do the 'twist' on your first belt job without someone helping who has done it successfully. Maybe someone in your area will answer this, or maybe you might post again for "Belt Help in Albuquerque."
Aside from the tension tool, a flywheel lock is helpful, as is a pin wrench for balance shaft sprockets, and a thin wrench for b.s. tensioning. Depending on mileage, a "thorough" belt refresh would include BS seals/spacer sleeves, as well as crank seal/spacer sleeve, and a factory warranteed water pump.
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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? « "DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc Last edited by Rasta Monsta; 11-25-2009 at 09:03 AM.. |
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+1 rm
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John '87 944 N/A (first Porsche) '95 E-350 Diesel '03 S-Type Jag 3.0 '03 Taurus SES '06 Eddie Bauer Explorer RIP SoCal |
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Desertt5
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 391
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The water pump is not very old according to the receipts. No seals are leaking right now and I can't be down too long right now. I know ( or at least I think I can) take the car down for a month or so in the spring. I plan to do more to it then. But my t-belt is just past 30K now and at least one roller b-belt sounds like a cheap roller skate. I am replacing the tensioner pads at the same time. no idea when they were done.
The flywheel lock is what I forgot about. Will get one on those. Can you do it without the pin wrench? Is a thin wrench required or just nice to have? (beer is required) I retensioneed the B-belt before with no special tools and seems great. As far as tensioning I have confidence I can get it close and I believe I have someone with experience to check it for me. Worst case a shop can double check it. I will have it checked by someone though. I have another car I have to pull a motor on and get running soon, but I want to get mine in the garage and the required things knocked before I lose the garage space to the other one. In the spring I can take my time and do some more, like fix an oil leak too. Thanks
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Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Ga.
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Here is a link for the tools needed for the belt changes. I have his tools and they are well made.
Policies Cheers, Larry |
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Toofah King Bad
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Pin wrench won't be necessary if you aren't doing BS seals. Thin wrench is pretty necessary, especially weighed against the cost. One can be had HERE for $20.
Good luck!
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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? « "DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc |
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Automotive Necromancer
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It depends...
I hate to get technical here, but, It really depends on how far you have to go. The pin wrench Is an absolute necessity IMHO to do the Balance seals. It is also useful to set the tension if you have the so called auto tensioner.
You can slide the belts on and off without removing the crank pulley, so you don't absolutely need the FW lock, but it is nice to have because the crank can slip without it. ....tell ya what, rather than repeat myself... look here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/504275-87-924s-water-pump-pics.html As you may wind up doing the WP while you are in there, it could come in useful. More "must read good stufff" before you go there. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/508983-water-pump-update-list.html Ok, THAT should give you a pretty good idea of what lies ahead. After reviewing that, clarks and the informative links off of the above links, lemme know if you have any questions. I do tension by hand, BUT, It is not for everybody and I will still respect you as a mechanic if you use a tensioning tool the first few times. There is no shame in being careful.
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There may be nothing quite as expensive as a cheap Porsche: Ruby Red 84 928S : White 87 924s 2.5L NA (Blinky) M44/07-43H10676 spoiler delete - 046/2B - Belts 9/12, Clutch and OC seals 8/08 andd Red 94 Del Sol: Please put your Make, Model and Year in Sig. Try not to break more than you fix. Last edited by SolReaver; 11-25-2009 at 10:50 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Posts: 345
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Regarding the flywheel lock - I could not get the crank pulley off without one. I tried the other methods and nothing worked so I ordered the flywheel lock and now it's easy. If you don't need to remove the crank pulley then you don't need the flywheel lock so for just a belt change you don't need it.
Pin wrench - I use a set of long nose, needle nose pliers with the nose grips bent at 90 degrees. No problems. Common tool that you may already have. Belt tension - the first time I did the belts I guessed at the tension and then had the porsche mechanic check it. Turned out I was way off. So, get the tool or have it checked afterwards. I'm personally not on board with using the kricket and the factory tool is hi $ so (to me) the best option is the arnworx tool. Reasonable price and works well. S tensioner pads - sorry, can't help on that one. Good Luck
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Brisbane, Australia (Formerly: Sunnyvale, CA)
Posts: 190
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Krikit is good. Clarks-garage.com has a write-up on the tensioner pad.
You will need the flywheel lock if you are removing the crankshaft bolt. Otherwise optional, but still nice to have. You will need a torque wrench as well.
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Currently 1990 944 S2, Black on Linen, 17" Turbo Twists |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: O.C. CA
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you guys have it easy - on a 968 you can't really change the belts without timing the cams (well, you can, but you could lose 20hp) - - it's not like you can "mark" where it was and put it back - it has to be set each time to get it right - a few thousandths of an inch on the 968 can mean a big difference in power - that means flywheel lock and dial indicators for us
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Desertt5
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 391
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Rasta, great deal on thin wrench. think i will get that one.
solreaver, water pump is the late one. I really hope I don't HAVE to replace it while I'm in here this time. I am glad you will still respect me LOL flash you are talking me out of wanting a 968 ![]() Thanks for the info everyone. I think i may get the flywheel lock just so I do not have to worry about it moving. I need to pull the intake at the same time to check my tps. I don't think it is clicking for WOT and the injectors will get cleaned/rebuilt at the same time. I have one that leaks down it seems.
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Desertt5
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 391
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hadn't seen the tesioner write up there. Thanks. yep, military cal'd torque wrench in hand.
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