83 n/a 944 ...No crack?

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by AA_Ezra

You Can clean the Piston tops with Gasket Remover and and Non Marring Gasket Scraper set from like Harbor Freight Come in a set of 5 i think and they are bright Orange.

6. soak a rag in some Carb cleaner and clean up Burned stuff around the top of the cylinder walls
Regards J

AA_Ezra has a very good write up on how to clean up the top of pistons if you decide to do it at all. Using grease to prevent carbon from dropping down the cylinder walls on to the piston rings should work.

I am not sure of step 6.

I do not recommend taking the tip carbon ring off the inside cylinder walls. This carbon ring helps seal the normally worn rings on the compression stroke.

John_AZ

[bobbydirl]

1. Thanks EZRA and John. I used Ezra's idea with the grease around the piston's edge with success. I found a scratch on #2 wall all the way up and down that will not catch my finger nail (probably from an ancient piece of trash, ..I plan to ignore it). Instead of W-D in Ezra's method, I used ECR assembly grease and lithium spray can grease to catch trash and lubricate walls. I also cheated with some gentle razor blade, and brake cleaner and teflon coated fine steel wool action.
2. I found out how the coolant was getting to the base of the oil filter mounting spot. When I rotated the crank to get to cylinders 2 & 3, it magically appeared, I assume from the oil pump. I wonder how I can get it out now short of rotating the engine with the starter to cause the oil pump to turn?
3. I don't have a 24mm thin wrench to get the oil pressure sender off (Clark's said I have to remove it before removing the oil cooler). I can't believe a city of 1/2 million could only produce one for sale at Ace Hardware for $15. I have a 15/16" but it is too wide to fit. Does it have to come off first?

[John_AZ]

24mm thin wrench subsitute.....I have used a crescent or a stubby open end that fit.

Make sure you have the aluminum crush washer.
Do you have the upgraded OPRV valve or the OEM 3 piece?
The OPRV alignment tool is required for the 1 piece especially to prevent binding.

Clean the coolant galleys between the cyl walls and engine block. The rear firewall coolant galley collects coolant deposits that look like silver paste. Suck it out with a vac.

Item 2 unsure of.

GL
John_AZ

[HondaDustR]

It doesn't have to come off first IIRC, but it would be better to so you don't break off the terminals, which do break off easily. I forget what, but something crams on good enough to grab it. Crescent adjustable wrench sounds right.

I'm sure your oiling system is full of coolant, so you may want to devise a plan to try to clear out as much as you can. Maybe spinning the starter would work pretty well but would make a mess. You may need to clear out as much as you can that way, then warm up the assembled ready to run motor with fresh oil and a filter, then drain and change again, kind of like an oil system flush. Maybe you could throw some seafoam into the second change, drive 30 miles or so, and change one last time.

[bobbydirl]

Thanks Honda. How about "back flushing" by pouring something (I don't know what) into a hole that should be exposed once I remove the oil cooler (..forgetting 24mm and going with a crescent wrench on the pressure transducer)?. Should it not flow back out through the oil drain?

[HondaDustR]

Yeah, I don't know either. I can't remember which hole goes to the engine internals, but I think it should be whatever hole in the block that matches up with the channel in the cooler housing that leads to the center oil filter hole. I think it's oil pump, OPRV, oil cooler, then filter, so, yeah, if you could figure out how to force some fresh oil under pressure through there, but be really careful with cleanliness here. Anything forced through that hole goes right into all the bearings. The oil cooler should be easy to clean out once removed, and you might be able to backflush the oil pump, at least by rotating the engine backwards while doing so.

Let us know what you come up with.