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First start with new rod bearings. Any precautions?

If all goes as planned I will have her running in a weeks time.
I have had the engine 80% apart and the turbo is rebuilt.
Do I need to take any special precautions?

I'm planning to add a detergent to the oil and run the engine until warm. I will then change oil and filter just to flush out any dust that may have gotten inside (highly unlikely but better to be 100% safe).

Anything else I should do?

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1990 944 T: 100 000 km/63K miles,
1997 986 2.5L: 95 000 km/60K miles,
Living in the trackless land of plenty!
Old 06-09-2010, 12:27 PM
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u did put assembly lube on the bearings when u put it all together right?
Old 06-09-2010, 12:30 PM
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Yes.
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1990 944 T: 100 000 km/63K miles,
1997 986 2.5L: 95 000 km/60K miles,
Living in the trackless land of plenty!
Old 06-09-2010, 12:40 PM
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that's one thing i thought of..

was there any debris from the engine before? was it just maintenance replacement of bearings? or did something happen?

if u spun a bearing, usually crap gets trapped in the oil cooler
Old 06-09-2010, 12:56 PM
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Thanks.
This is maintenance and mounting a pair of crank scrapers.
No damaged parts in there apart from the turbo which was damaged and rebuilt.
I have flushed all parts of the oiling system.
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1990 944 T: 100 000 km/63K miles,
1997 986 2.5L: 95 000 km/60K miles,
Living in the trackless land of plenty!

Last edited by bebbetufs; 06-09-2010 at 02:16 PM..
Old 06-09-2010, 01:32 PM
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When I did mine I just disconnected and grounded the coil wire and then cranked until I got oil pressure before starting. As long as you used assembly lube you should be fine. For that matter, a heavy-weight oil works just as good.
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'88 944 Auto - project, kinda
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'84 944 5SP - crushed under shop roof during snow storm
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:51 AM
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disconnected and grounded the coil wire and then cranked until I got oil pressure
+1 Same here. Then reconned coil then started.

Also, you might want to investigate a single weight oil for initial break-in, like a 30W. The multi-viscoity and synth oils are often too slippery for proper marrying up of new parts. Sounds like you're not doing rings so this might be less important, but check with an experienced engine builder to be sure.
Old 06-10-2010, 07:15 PM
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No paper towels in your oil galley's right?
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1986 951 - Wrecked. Being used for engine swap and parts.
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:16 PM
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funny...

What I read somewhere, can't remember where, but it sounded believable is that the break in process is primarily for the piston rings, pistons, and cylinders, which require conventional oil to break in properly. Synthetic is too slippery and will not allow enough metal to metal interaction to properly break in new rings and cylinders in that case. The bearings clearances should always be filled with oil on a properly functioning oiling system and the oil film will protect from any metal to metal contact under normal circumstances. The grey bearing material is extremely soft and will be destroyed in short order if any metal to metal contact occurs, hence no need for any special break in procedure if it's just new bearing shells, and I'd just use whatever oil you normally use. I wouldn't bounce off the rev limiter right away, though.
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaDustR View Post
funny...
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1986 951 - Wrecked. Being used for engine swap and parts.
1987 944 - SCCA specification track/ street car. Awaiting 951 engine and parts.
Old 06-10-2010, 11:39 PM
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Thank. Looks like I'm good to go.
I just picked up the engine hoist, so this ordeal is almost over

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1990 944 T: 100 000 km/63K miles,
1997 986 2.5L: 95 000 km/60K miles,
Living in the trackless land of plenty!
Old 06-11-2010, 09:30 AM
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