Scottish 944 - restoration after 5 years

ransoman · 03-22-2009, 02:32 PM

Hello all,

My name is Andrew from Scotland and i have recently been donated a 1985 (late style, oval dash) porsche 944. I want to get this up an running as a 2nd car and hopefully sell it on for a small profit (or fall in love and keep it).

The car used to belong to my dad and was garaged up 5 years ago because it was costing him too much to run.

I started it up today for the first time in 5 years and it sounded pretty good. All i did was add a liter or 2 of "fresh petrol" to the 10 or so liters of 5 year old stuff (UK 95 octane) and I poured some fresh oil into the filler. Sounded rough at first and smoked a lot but after a minute or so it was a lot better.

At idle only the engine and whole car vibrated badly, can i assume this is the engine mounts? apparently they where due when it was garaged.

I have a plan to get it up and running and hopefully it wont cost too much (£500ish if i am lucky).

How urgently should i get the timing belt replaced? it was replaced approx 6 month prior to getting garaged.

The handbrake was welded on too, Can anyone recomend the best way to free it off.

Can anyone suggest any "recomended reading" or do you know of any good "how to" guides over the internet?

I have an Alfa 147 as a daily driver so there is no urgency to get this up and running, but my dad wants it out of the garage ASAP.

Many thanks in advance for your help.
Andrew.

Icey1174 · 03-22-2009, 02:45 PM

I would do the timing belt without doing to much driving on the motor. It could have some dry rot after 5 years of sitting. That should be done ASAP or you will be looking at a big expense.

Engine mounts are not that tough if you can turn a wrench. Neither are the timing belts.

Why would someone weld a parking brake on? Maybe that is something people do in the UK, but not here. At least not that I have heard of.

Clark's - www.clarks-garage.com - is a great resource for you! READ the entire site about buying and maintaining the car. Then you can read through the Garage Shop Manual and fix anything if you can turn a wrench, have the proper tools, and CAN follow EXACT instructions.

Also, use this site with any questions. This site in itself is a great resource. Not to mention you can buy new and used parts here.

ransoman · 03-23-2009, 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icey1174

I would do the timing belt without doing to much driving on the motor. It could have some dry rot after 5 years of sitting. That should be done ASAP or you will be looking at a big expense.

Engine mounts are not that tough if you can turn a wrench. Neither are the timing belts.

Why would someone weld a parking brake on? Maybe that is something people do in the UK, but not here. At least not that I have heard of.

Clark's - www.clarks-garage.com - is a great resource for you! READ the entire site about buying and maintaining the car. Then you can read through the Garage Shop Manual and fix anything if you can turn a wrench, have the proper tools, and CAN follow EXACT instructions.

Also, use this site with any questions. This site in itself is a great resource. Not to mention you can buy new and used parts here.

Thanks,

When i say welded on, i mean siezed on. I think the first 6 months it was parked up the handbrake was on, then it was removed but the damage had already been done.

Would there be any point in replacing the tensioners? or can i just get away with replacing the belts? I can't imagine tensioners degrading over the idle time?

I am good at following instructions, and good with wrenches too. aslong as i don't come across any rusted solid bolts, i should survive.

Many Thanks,

strikinglight · 03-23-2009, 09:16 AM

Remember these cars are like crack... If your first one is free then you gonna get hooked...

Icey1174 · 03-23-2009, 09:32 AM

Rusted bolts are easy to deal with. Just DO NOT round the corners! I have found all the screws, nuts, and bolts to come off easy. Just make sure you have the wrench all the way on the blot. Use some WD40 or PB Blaster if you are worried about the looks of it. I have a set of pipes ranging in size from 6 inches long all the way up to 7 feet long. Get the wrench on the bolt properly and use a pipe on the end of the wrench for better leverage. You will find, as I have found, everything to come off very easy.

Use the proper torque when putting them back on!

Have fun!

ransoman · 03-24-2009, 03:43 AM

That clarks website is brilliant!

many thanks!

Icey1174 · 03-24-2009, 06:13 AM

No problem. I still read through that site ALL the time. I have used many procedures from there and everything has turned out perfect. I think even better than the Porsche dealer would have done it. I take a lot of extra time to clean everything and make sure everything is perfect.

john_brunt · 03-26-2009, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ransoman

Thanks,

When i say welded on, i mean siezed on. I think the first 6 months it was parked up the handbrake was on, then it was removed but the damage had already been done.

Would there be any point in replacing the tensioners? or can i just get away with replacing the belts? I can't imagine tensioners degrading over the idle time?

I am good at following instructions, and good with wrenches too. aslong as i don't come across any rusted solid bolts, i should survive.

Many Thanks,

Hi

Im in Manchester, I bought a 924 last August and now got three...you do get hooked preety quick.....Halfords sell a product called Shock & Unlock its absolutely brilliant for loosening rusted bolts....the rear bumper brackets on one of mine were rusted solid and there was no way they were coming free....one 5 second spray later....and a further 10 second wait i could almost undo them with my fingers...best advice is make sure you use the right socket with the hex internal pattern...as I have found your less likely to round of the nut.....good luck

Dark Skies · 03-26-2009, 02:20 PM

You really should get those belts done before you do anything else. After five years standing they will have developed a 'set' and are liable to break. These are interference engines and when the cambelt lets go your valves will smack the pistons with the potential to wreck everything associated with them - including the conrods. Your £500 estimate would then double at the least!!!

John_AZ · 03-26-2009, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ransoman

Hello all,
At idle only the engine and whole car vibrated badly, can i assume this is the engine mounts? apparently they where due when it was garaged.
Andrew.

Andrew, Bad motor mounts would normally give you a vibration at idle but not "vibrated badly" more like "vibrated annoyingly".
Listen to the advice given and change both belts. The balance belt may have already lost a couple of teeth or is off a cog or 2 on the pulleys.

More on vibration.
Adding a couple of liters of new gas to the old gas just makes things worse. Drain, do not put it in you Alfa 147, do not harm the environment. Old gas deteriorates and the injectors do not like to have all the gunk and old varnish inside without a proper cleaning. If you are an average DIY guy, read the tech section above^^ and click on injector cleaning. Get new seals and "hats" Get a new fuel filter. The fuel hose from the tank to the fuel pump is old and may be brittle. When you have done this add a couple of ounces of Lucas fuel treatment. It will lubricate the electric fuel pump and clean the fuel lines.

Welcome and GL
John_AZ