Timing belt cover off - need some expert eyes on this...

[aaronhab]

Ok so i finally got the the timing belt cover off - also, i went down tot he local autozone after i finally got the alternator loose and had it tested - passed with flying colors! I thought for sure it was a goner after 10 years of non-operation.

i got the power steering pump loose and finally got the timing belt housing cover off- lookingat the state of the belt, everything looks in good order - the belt isnt nearly as cracked or worn as the outside belts. I'm excited because it looks like the car is in way better shape than i thought.

so what im asking is - does it look like its in good shape, and is that a new style water pump? the roller looks like the larger one. also, am i supposed to be able to turn the roller with my finger?

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Those belts actually look like they might be a little on the dry side. Might just be the pictures and they're probably okay for a while, but if you're not 100% sure when they were last done, I'd change them as a precaution - especially in AZ where things tend to dry out more quickly than elsewhere. A set of belts is cheap enough. They're probably all right for a while though just based on the pictures (they're not cracking or fraying, but OTOH if they're an "unknown commodity" and they blow up tomorrow, don't blame me... ).

Can't tell if it's a new waterpump - do you have the part #?

You have the later style setup with the belt guard (that's a good thing). Leave that in place.

You should not be able to turn the waterpump pulley by hand - you may very well be able to turn the idler (black one) by hand with the belts in place and okay. It LOOKS like those belts are tensioned reasonably okay, but photos can be deceiving...

Lots of corrosion/scale on the lower hose flange of that water pump (at least that's what it looks like in the picture - again, might just be the light/photo). Any idea when the H2O pump was last done? If it ain't leaking it's fine for now, but again - don't be surprised if it starts anytime if you don't know how long it has been on there.

Good luck and enjoy the car!

[Dave L]

Are you asking if the belt looks good? Dont chance it if its old no mater what it looks like. The water pump should also be changed if you dont know the history (mostly because it would suck to have it start weaping after getting done the belts). Once you get the belt off spin the rollers, if they spin nicely leave them, if they rattle like the bearings are worn replace the roller.

[VII]

You seem to have a lot of rubber build up on your water pump pulley. I do not know how much is normal but I know I had build up quick when the belt was slipping. I cleaned up the pulley, retensioned and 1500 miles later I still have no rubber on my pulley. Just something to look in to.

[aaronhab]

all the belts are getting replaced, that's why i have it pulled apart - going to redo the water pump gasket, oil cooler seal, front seal, etc.

and i did mean the black roller, not the pump itself. the belts do seem to have good tension, i did the twist test on one, seemed to be about as loose as it was supposed to be.

the guy i bought the car from said the PO had "blown a radiator hose" and thats when he parked it. looks like either the thermostat is busted and not opening or the pump has a leak, which would explain all the corrosion and the rusted clamps around where the thermostat is.

either over this week or next weekend i should have the timing belt housing removed and ill pull that pump off... in order to do this, i need to insert the flywheel lock and set the engine to TDC, yes?

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Yep.

There are lots of write-ups on here and Clark's Garage about how to do the t-belts on a 944. It's not hard but take pictures, go slowly, be methodical and check your work. Get tools together ahead of time - a good set of metric sockets and wrenches and so-on. Get the flywheel lock. Get a 9201 or at the very least, a Kricket tool. Also, find a set of 90-degree bent-nose pliers (will work to hold the balance shaft pulleys while you undo the nuts) or the special spanner wrench tool. You will not be able to do the job without one or the other.

I also recommend having a long breaker bar for the crank pulley bolt and a good 1/2" drive torque wrench (IIRC it's something like 150 ft-lb to retorque).

Change the pump too as a precaution, and don't forget your 1500-mile retension.

[mikepellegrini]

Somebody check me if I'm wrong, but the best way to tell if you've got an updated waterpump is by the belt guard (long flat metal runner that spans from the bolt directly above the pump to a bolt below to the right). Cars that have this also have a smaller idler roller (or is it larger) directly below the guard.

Cars with the old style pump did not have a belt guard and had a different sized idler roller.

I believe you have an up-dated waterpump.

[aaronhab]

thanks - the tip about the rubber is *exactly* what i was needing to know, thanks VII!. I dont know enough about these cars to identify those signs, and that helps me greatly. I have the flywheel lock, but i don't have the balance shaft lock (the wrench looking thing?) do i need that?

[aaronhab]

Mike- this is what i thought. I was thinking that the beltguard was attachted to the shafts that are only present on the newer pumps, but i wasnt sure...

[mikepellegrini]

Originally Posted by aaronhab

Mike- this is what i thought. I was thinking that the beltguard was attachted to the shafts that are only present on the newer pumps, but i wasnt sure...

Precisely.

+1 on changing the cam and BS belts - just in case. They aren't that expensive and in the long run, it could save you major bucks.

How many miles on the car?

If the pump appears to be in good condition, I wouldn't replace it - although it's a whole lot easier to change the thermostat when the pump is out of the car. That's what you were gonna do? Take it off, change the gasket and the thermostat - but reinstall the same pump? That'd be a good plan.

The flywheel lock is a good thing to have in-place. Yeah, the balance shaft spanner is a really handy tool, but it is possible to remove the bolts without one.

The first time I did a belt job, I helf the BS sprockets in place with two punches which I held with a pair of vice grips. The bolts musta been over-torqued - I broke a couple punches doing it. It was kinda a pain, but it worked.

Having the BS spanner makes it dead simple, though. No fuss, no muss. The thin, bent wrench is very useful for holding the tensioner on the cam belt bolt.

[mlang88]

Hey Aaron,

Is that the porche that was in sherman oaks? the one they had to sell because they sold the house?

Matt

[Grandad#3]

Hi Aaron, Here is a link to the tools you need to make life easier for you and well worth the money. He also has some good write-ups to read.

Policies

Cheers,
Larry

[aaronhab]

it is, matt - were you looking at it?

[mlang88]

I was going when I called to let them know i was on my way they told me they just sold it so I turned around and went back to work. how is she?

[aaronhab]

shes good, i got a battery in and tested all the electrics - fuel pump works, spark is good, all the lights work except driver side brake light. flip up motors work. body is straight as an arrow - radio works pretty well, windows and mirrors work too. I'm changing all these things out because there's no history and i'm being safe, i think she'll be a good runner when i get her going!

[mlang88]

were in los Angeles are you?

[aaronhab]

west valley - you?

[HondaDustR]

The water pump is the updated model since it has the belt guard. Those look like Dayco belts by the little notch in the tooth center. In my experience, at least with the Dayco balance belt, is that the surface covering is a bit harder than the Contitech belt...a little more plastic feeling. Only problem is the Conti balance belt is insanely expensive lately, but the Dayco fits and works fine for me anyway. Haven't seen their cam belt, but it may also have the harder anti-wear layer that might make it look more "dried out". Either way, if you don't have hard documentation proving that they have been replaced recently enough, just change them. If you can see problems, then you just dodged a bullet, since they usually just shear a few teeth out of the blue.

[mlang88]

Whittier, I work downtown. when you get it running maybe we can meet up. I would like to see what I missed out on.

[aaronhab]

id be down for that!