Timing/Balance Belt Installation Question
 

OK - so my engine is still on a stand - with everything back together except the main crank sprockets (waiting for an O-ring), and the flywheel/clutch/bellhousing assembly.

I cannot install the flywheel/clutch/bellhousing until I get the engine off the stand - so I cannot lock the flywheel until then - so until then I cannot reinstall and torque down the main crank...and I cannot replace my belts until the main crank sprockets are installed. (now I've got that "kneebone connected to the thighbone" music in my head - aaarrrggghhh!!)

But....given that the main crank is keyed, as are the balance shaft sprockets - and as the crankshaft and camshaft are now at TDC (plus I drew a witness mark for crank timing on the rear main seal) - why can I not just go ahead and install the crank sprockets, torque the main crank bolt loosely so I don't move the crank (I can do this by tapping the wrench handle), then go ahead and do all the belts while the engine is still up on the stand? I could always then recheck everything when the engine is on the floor, where it will need to be so I can reinstall the flywheel/clutch/bellhousing (at which time I'll give the crank sprockets their final torque), prior to sliding it under the car.

For those who'd read my earlier post about my camshaft being very tight (due to valve spring pressure) - I don't see how tensioning the belts with the crank bolt not fully torqued would necessarily cause the cam/crank to rotate off of TDC.

Has anyone else tried this?

ps: I need to ask this because I will not have access to an engine hoist for another week or two...and in the meantime I'd like to do my belts.

Since everything's keyed, especially if you don't plan on rotating the motor until you get everything tightenned down and double checked, I don't see a problem with doing it that way.

u can install flywheel with engine on stand. u can torq the bolts since they're so close to axis of rotation.

once flywheel is installed, u can see the timing mark and line it up to where the inspection hole would be. also set yer speed/ref sensor height now since you can actually see the clearance between sensor and flywheel timing stud.

You could also follow the WSM with the engine out.



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