Half-Inch Bell Housing - T.T. Gap...So Close!

OK-944 · 10-01-2010, 10:38 AM

The engine is almost there....but not quite!

Looks like about a half inch gap between the torque tube flange and the back of the bell housing - and I'm having a heck of a time trying to bring these together. I've been shaking the engine, raising and lowering slightly, etc.

Seems like there must be more than this amount (half-inch) of engagement between the torque-tube and the clutch plate - and I was careful with the clutch alignment tool to get everything lined up.

The engine is rotated slightly, due to how the lift-chain is attached...so that when I hold the cross-member in place, the driver's side of the engine is a bit low - and the passenger side a bit high.

I'm tempted to jack the cross-member into place and use its bolts to (gently) draw the engine into place - but I don't want to mess up any engagement splines. Perhaps I can use the cross-member to draw the engine into place incrementally, and do some tapping around the t.t. flange to see if I can get it to pop into place. Clarks states that the T.T. should be bolted to the bell housing prior to installing the cross-member, so I'd want to be careful.

There are a couple of what look to be locator pins on the back of the bell housing, which look like they would fit inside the torque tube diameter. But I don't remember seeing any receptacles for these pins on the torque tube.

Any suggestions about what else I might try to bring the bell housing and torque tube together. Thanks!

Rasta Monsta · Rasta Monsta's Garage

Did you lube the splines on the driveshaft? I'd be careful doing too much wiggling, you can hose your clutch disc.

Maybe you could use a socket on the front crank bolt and rotate the motor a bit?

Techno Duck · Techno Duck's Garage

As mentioned, put a little grease on the driveshaft splines. Also try and level the engine with the torque tube, all you can really do is just eyeball it but it will help. The engine tends tilt backwards making alignment a little difficult. Put a jack under bellhousing area (with a piece of wood inbetween). Get the torque tube in as far as you can without forcing anything too much. Next, have a friend SLOWLY press on the clutch pedal while you or whoever pushes the torque tube forward. It will literally slide right in.

Now make sure the torque tube is in as far as it will go, if for some reason its too far out, the clutch disc will fall out of alignment and you will be pulling the bellhousing out again. At the last inch or so your basically just trying to make it through the pilot bearing.

I had the same problem when did my clutch. My buddy and i were rocking the hell out of the car, i swear it was going to fall off the lift. Anyhow once i pushed in the clutch the splines went in the last inch.

Another thing, make sure the input shaft on the torque tube is in good shape, no burs or nicks in it. Its a fairly tight fit with the pilot bearing.

krystar · 10-01-2010, 12:12 PM

yea rotate the crank bolt a bit.

u can also use a ratcheting tie down strap to pull the engine towards the rear of the car.

Slam · 10-01-2010, 12:24 PM

I'd be tempted to drop the tranny (early or late car?) and move the TT back, then bolt up the engine mounts/crossmember, limiting the engine movement to one plane. Then jack under the oil pan and slide the TT forward. I don't know if this is possible for you or not - it kinda presupposes an early car on jackstands.

OK-944 · 10-01-2010, 12:30 PM

Yup...greased up the torque tube shaft pretty well, and tried rotating the engine via the crank bolt. Plus I've fitted the crossbar with motor mounts, and engine is resting on this, unbolted. Maybe I need to take the crossbar off again so I can move the engine more freely. The gap does seem a bit smaller now - but the t.t. still looks rotated a bit, and I cannot get its bolt holes to line up with those on the bell housing. Those pins on the rear of the bell housing could be hanging up. Going on four hours with this one issue....

rb101 · 10-01-2010, 01:42 PM

Do you have any of the bolts in? I can usually get it close enough to start a few of the bolts. I put a little bit of tension on them and then turn the crank. Turning the crank with some pressure on the bolts, will usually allow it to pop right in. Good luck.

limerocket · 10-01-2010, 04:56 PM

If you are about 1/2" out, it's likely that the clamped clutch disk is off center from the pilot bearing ID. Assuming everything else is reasonably square, actuating the pressure plate will likely get you seated like techno-duck suggested. Go ahead and engage the crossmember by several threads all around and get off the hoist for safety sake and realize that the tranny may not hang squarely from the later single point mount in the rear as you try and align the four tt bolts. You can actuate the clutch hydraulically, or mechanically by prying the release lever through the access hole. Leave the four bolts a little loose until the crossmember is fully seated.

John_AZ · 10-01-2010, 05:16 PM

Put the clutch slave in. Do not depress the clutch pedal when it is not installed--you may ruin the cup seal inside.

With the slave in, have some one just press the pedal a little----I just use a short board between the seat and pedal.

The slave will release the PP a little and you will be able to align the drive shaft to the pilot bearing because the clutch disc can move.

This will work.

GL
John

OK-944 · 10-02-2010, 09:41 AM

Got it! I was able to rotate the whole engine to line up the bolt-holes...started the bolts and it went right together. But what a pretzel-bender it was to reach those upper bolts! Gotta get a lift someday!

jamesjedi · 10-03-2010, 09:15 AM

Perhaps the transmission has moved a little back. The trans is only held in palce by a rubber mount. Try to determine what it is that is out...because something is not correct. It will go togethor easily once you figure it out. Make sure your engine is level.