do you locktite Cyl HD nuts,..

[flmont]

Iam about to install the rebuilt head, and Iam wondering if I need to locktite the hd nuts,...they are being re-used ...Thanks Frank

[sney]

The nuts on mine don't have any loctite, but I think I need to tighten them a little, I'm getting a small oil weep around the gasket area. take what you will from that.

[wild man]

I've never heard of anyone using thread lock on head bolts. I have used thread anti sieze though.

[John_AZ]

The WSM (work shop manual) is very specific.

NO locktite, NO antisieze, just light oil on the threads.

I do not reuse head nuts---they stretch, just like FW (flywheel) bolts.

Head washers can be reused if you "scuff/sand" the bottom so they do not turn--this is important to get proper torque applied.

The head nut torque sequence is the most critical part of the process. Wait the full 30++ minutes between each step. If you do not follow the sequence, YOU may weep at the thought of a "redo".

From the WSM:



John

[flmont]

Nough said,..I should have orderd those damn nuts....FM. Pelican said I could re-use them.so I figured what the hell I would,..the HD has never been off the car, they would only be reused once..But for 30.00 better safe... ??? FM

[John_AZ]

Porsche does not mention replacing head nuts. Pelican goes by this information. A few members reuse head nuts. I prefer to be over cautious and Alldata confirms. Here is a procedure to replace the head on a 951 and a lot applies to the 944.

1986 Porsche 951 Head Gasket Procedure

Make sure you follow the proper torque sequence for your car. Clarks says 15 minutes----30 minutes is my time between steps.

Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence and Torque Specifications

GL
John

[flmont]

Thanks Agin John,..see. I did not know about the wait time,..Iam sure I would have caught it when I read the process,...which would have been on Friday,..now I shall wait untill next week..before I assemble...just waiting for my nuts LOL FM

[romad]

You don't use locktite on head bolts or studs. The whole idea of a properly torqued fastener is to insure they are loaded correctly. A properly load fastener usually doesn't come loose. I say usually because nothing is certain in these regards. Replacing hardware is a good practice, but the stud is more likely to fail than the nut. Torque is a method which is used in lew of your ability to measure bolt or stud stretch. In torquing your hardware you are on average getting the required stretch or load on a specific hardware. On new hardware it takes between 4 to 8 torques and re-torques to get the truest actual torque. On old hardware its actual fewer re torques, but the actual stretch is less, meaning the correct torque may be more than specified. Problem is with out an ability to measure stretch you don't know what that over torque is......So the best practice is to install all new hardware., studs and nuts and to torque to spec,.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by flmont

Thanks Agin John,..see. I did not know about the wait time,..Iam sure I would have caught it when I read the process,...which would have been on Friday,..now I shall wait untill next week..before I assemble...just waiting for my nuts LOL FM

FM, you will do fine. A sence of humor is required.

I have a couple of suggestions while you wait for parts.

Replace all pinch type hose clamps with fuel injection hose clamps for the small hoses and non perforated screw clamps for the larger hoses.

Check the hoses from the ICV/ISV (idle control valve) for cracks. You cannot get to the hoses when the intake is back on.

The ICV/ISV rubber mounts---are they falling apart? Pelican $10 each.

The 2 "O" rings on the AOS (air oil separator)----oil fill tube should be replaced. Again this is only possible with the intake off. Look at the throttle body, do you see any oil deposits? The oil vapor gets sucked into the throttle body if the AOS seals are bad.

With the intake off it is an easy time to check the sensor gap (speed sensor!). Cover the TDC hole--do not drop a nut in the clutch.

Clean all the grounds and engine harness connections. Per Porsche

Every night go down to Miracle Mile and dance in the bars till dawn.

(ex Oro Valley)

GL
John

[flmont]

Ha hahaha,..I use to dance till dawn,..thats more expensive than the Pcar...thanks agin for the info,..I will be spending the whole weekend on my car...I expect to learn alot about it ..I do have new seals for oil cooler and the AOS, I intend to clean it up and prep for next week plus time to keep reading ....FM

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by flmont

..I do have new seals for oil cooler ....FM

FM, Oil Cooler seals---good idea.

Just a couple of tips.

Do you have the oil cooler alignment tool??? If not you may bind the OPRV and ruin the engine.

Clean the oil cooler housing carefully. I use a tiny art paint brush and put Permatex copper RTV in the oil cooler housing seal groove and smooth. You do not want to use a lot. Nothing on the block.

When you install the oil cooler-----the 2 big green "O" rings have to be oiled before you put on or the "O" rings will roll and not seal.

Here is information on rebuilding the OPRV and a lot more in the post.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/571175-oprv-opsu.html

GL
John

[Rasta Monsta]

Originally Posted by sney

I think I need to tighten them a little, I'm getting a small oil weep around the gasket area.

Your head gasket is leaking oil externally? Do over.