Power Window Problem
 

So the window on the pass side went down, but not back up, neither switch will get it to go up, both will let it down. Any ideas on where to start? relay?? :confused: of course I just sold my other daily driver so have to fix this quick, can I manually close the window if I get inside the door with minimal P.I.A. ?

OK, I had time to get into the door, and check voltage, I'm getting voltage at the motor thru the switch for up and down, so seems I need a new/used pass side window motor.(477-959-124A Window Motor, Right, 924S/944/968 All (1983-95),
anyone have a walk thru on removal installaion of the window motor??
Anyone have my parts on hand and take paypal??

thanks

Will try to take pictures and post a step by for anyone who has to do this little pain of a job.SmileWavy

Have you removed the door switches one by one ,carefully dismantled them and and cleaned the contacts?

It's been awhile since I've done a window repair - I do remember that there are many screws to be taken out to remove the window lift transmission and motor. Like maybe 12 screws or something like that. Once all of the screws are removed the whole assembly can lift out of the door - be careful of the small rollers on the ends of the scissor arms, they tend to break easier and if that happens the whole scissor arm/window lift transmission will have to be replaced. Once all is removed from inside the door the electric window motor can be separated from the assembly and replaced. Now a big note on re-assembly - when you have every thing back inside the door do not torque the screws that you took off to remove the assembly. First power the window all the way to the top, and then torque all screws. If the window now is in adjustment all is well, if not, loosen all of the screws again and run the window up and down until all is working smooth then re-torque. This is the only alignment adjustment available...

with the door panel off its a 2 minute job two screws and a plug connector

Both the +12 volts & ground needed to power the window motor comes through the switches. If you only checked for +12 volts with the volt meter (or a test light) negative lead connected to somewhere on the chassis...you could be getting "voltage" at the window motor...but not the ground if a switch is bad or a broken wire.

Be sure you connect both test leads to only the 2 connector leads (BL & BL/BK) that plug into the motor. Without operating the switch you should have 'no voltage'. Pushing it to go up should give you a battery voltage reading. Pushing it to go down should also give you a battery voltage reading but indicating an opposite polarity from the 'up' reading...that is, the polarity is reversed.

Here's a good trouble shooting guide:

Electric Window Troubleshooting

I don't quite understand why the motor works in one direction, but not the other. If it goes down I'm suprised it can't be persuaded to go up. If the connections are reversed on the motor (I think they are just push on spades) does it go up and not down? What's the voltage on the motor when it doesn't work: if the 12V drops and nothing moves perhaps the widow mech is twisted or stuck..

Just wondering....
Cheers
Rissole

If this is anything like my issue, try pushing both passenger buttons up at the same time. I am having a strange issue where you have to use both buttons to get the windows to operate...Good luck!

I had exactly the same problem a week ago. It was one of the switches (driver's side for passenger window), which had some stuff on the contacts, but has also been clumsily reassembled by PO, and wasn't making good contact.

You may not even need to remove the door, just the screws from the little switch bracket. From then on, it's a half-hour of work.

In the meantime, if you need the window up urgently, and you're already in there, simply reverse the wires to the relevant motor, and up she'll go (but not down). If it's indeed the switch.