RMS replacement question
 

Ok, I have been at this rear main seal replacement job too long as I am brain dead. When removing the flywheel should I not mark the orientation so I can align in the same spot when installing? Since the timing is in align, if I slapped it back on anywhere the TDC marks could be off right ?

There is an alignment pin on the crank so the flywheel only goes on one way.

Hi, If you have not removed the Flywheel yet you can mark the TDC Mark with White Fingernail Polish, so it will be easier to tell TDC later on. I hope you bought the Elring RMS as it goes in much easier. Once the RMS is removed use sandpaper to smooth out any burrs at the RMS opening. IIRC, you use a 4" plastic pipe end cap to drive the RMS into its opening all the way. Do a SEARCH on here for RMS Replacement. Before you put the Bell Housing back on, saw a notch "U" shaped where the Speed/Reference Sensors are located. The next time you will not have to fight the Sensors to remove the Bell Housing as it will come off easy. Follow Clark's Garage.com and you should be good to go. Use Engine Assembly Lube on the RMS, Pilot Bearing and Pivot Arm Bearings. Great Write Up by Techno Duck.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/481523-joined-951-clutch-club-last-night-initiation-photos-included.html?highlight=951+RMS+replacement

Clutch Replacement

Cheers,
Larry

Pivot arm bearings should have moly grease, IMO.

An alignment pin , right ...it has been too long since I last removed a flywheel. As for seal I am in a rush and my local parts house only had Beck Arnley. Yep , notching is in the plan once I unstick that flywheel. Hammering had no affect so far. What is the German word for !@#$%^&* ?

An Impact Gun works wonders on the Flywheel Bolts. Just make sure the bolt head is cleaned out so the tool fits in all the way. Use the Star Pattern for bolt removal. Rasta is right, use Moly Grease on the Pivot Bearings. I had a brain #art.

Cheers,
Larry

The Porsche recommended Lubri Moly MoS2 moly works wonders and is damn near impervious to water dilution when heated by friction. I put that stuff in when I did a clutch over 5 years ago, and it was still there when the clutch was replaced last week....and it was still gooy

I had the bolts out with no issue really. FW was just stuck on. Attacked it after work today and it came right off, what a diff. a new day makes. Cleaned up trans, Ttube, bellhousing, etc. and assembled new clutch. gotta get it all together tomorrow for tech inspection on Fri. Send your rabbits feet my way. Bad thing is I have to wrangle the TT and trannie back in by myself in the morning since "helpers" will be at work.