views on best way to get steel bolt from aluminium

[MrTibbs]

Hi folks,

I managed to snap one of the bolts that attaches the trailing arm to the suspension arm (one of the two bolts nearest the back of the suspension assembly).

The head of the bolt has broken off but the nut is still on the other end (the end that you can't get an impact wrench on).

I think I've got 2 problems here - steel to steel corrosion between the bolt and the steel part of the suspension (the bit from the torsion bar) and steel to aluminium corrosion where it touches the trailing arm.

Over the next couple of days I'm planning to:
* try twisting it using a wrench on the nut - but there's not much space so tricky to get much torque on it
* hit it with penetrating fluid
* try the ATF Acetone mix method (anyone actually used this, or is it one of those things that just crops up on internet forums - I've seen the magazine article about torques using that compared to other things, but that wasn't looking at steel to aluminium corrosion)
* possibly use heat a bit, but it's quite near the petrol tank which smells a bit so I want to avoid heat if possible
* If using heat, use the 'candle wax trick'.
* Drill it out, though I've only got a crappy drill with a poor battery so really don't want to do this.

Any views on which of these works best? I've tried using a gear puller but you can't centre it enough to get a decent amount of pressure on there.

One thing that might be relevant is that it's not the threads that are the issue here - the head's broken off and it's got a nut on the other end, so it's a smooth shank that's stuck.

Thanks
Mike

[petrolhead611]

try genuine coca-cola- we used to use that on fire damaged machinery parts(water sprayed on when hot so causing almost instant corrosion) when I was an apprentice.

[massive]

Originally Posted by MrTibbs

Hi folks,

I managed to snap one of the bolts that attaches the trailing arm to the suspension arm (one of the two bolts nearest the back of the suspension assembly).

The head of the bolt has broken off but the nut is still on the other end (the end that you can't get an impact wrench on).

I think I've got 2 problems here - steel to steel corrosion between the bolt and the steel part of the suspension (the bit from the torsion bar) and steel to aluminium corrosion where it touches the trailing arm.

Over the next couple of days I'm planning to:
* try twisting it using a wrench on the nut - but there's not much space so tricky to get much torque on it
* hit it with penetrating fluid
* try the ATF Acetone mix method (anyone actually used this, or is it one of those things that just crops up on internet forums - I've seen the magazine article about torques using that compared to other things, but that wasn't looking at steel to aluminium corrosion)
* possibly use heat a bit, but it's quite near the petrol tank which smells a bit so I want to avoid heat if possible
* If using heat, use the 'candle wax trick'.
* Drill it out, though I've only got a crappy drill with a poor battery so really don't want to do this.

Any views on which of these works best? I've tried using a gear puller but you can't centre it enough to get a decent amount of pressure on there.

One thing that might be relevant is that it's not the threads that are the issue here - the head's broken off and it's got a nut on the other end, so it's a smooth shank that's stuck.

Thanks
Mike

Got any photo's?

[alan6272]

I use PB blaster from any auto store even Wallyworld has it. Spay it let it sit seems to work very well.

[MrTibbs]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Forgot to say I've already sprayed it with a thing called 'shock and unlock' they sell here in the UK. It's one of those products that freezes the parts to try to break the rust.

Have also whacked it with a punch and hammer with no effect.

I looked into the coke thing in the past and it seems it's the acid in it that does the trick. Vinegar is supposed to have a higher concentration apparently so might try that.

Mike

[Ky914Newbie]

I recently had a bolt drilled out by a pro because I couldn't figure it out on my own. However, some of the things that seemed to make sense when I was researching:

If you have enough of the bolt left to get a nut on, weld a new nut on the end.

Multiple heat and cooling cycles. (obviously you need to be careful about the gas)

The pro I had come out swore by Kroil (Like PB Blaster) but he thought it was much better.

If you have to drill it out, make sure to get in the center and start with a small cobalt bit and slowly work up in size. Left hand cobalt bits would be even better as you might get lucky and get the bolt to loosen before you drill into the threads.

Good Luck!

[krystar]

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF has reputation of the best bolt de-ruster.

[MrTibbs]

Cheers,

It's just the smooth bit that's stuck in the hole, not the threaded bit (it's a nut and bolt that goes through a smooth hole - the bolt head broke off so the nut is still on the other end.

I'll try to turn it by the nut but it's a bit tricky to get more than a standard wrench in there which doesn't give much leverage.

I'm not too keen on using heat since it's near the tank, and I don't want to melt or weaken the aluminum trailing arm.

In the UK there are different products - not seen Kroil over here.

Mike

[944 LSX]

A shop used bee'ss wax on a similar problem after having tried all of the other methods. I'm not kidding. The bee's wax was the only thing that did the trick.

[MrTibbs]

Thanks - the bees wax is the candle thing I mentioned (as long as you get high quality candles).

Krystar - thanks. I'd included the acetone and ATF thing in my list. I know it comes up a lot but was hoping someone has actually tried it and seen what it's like. There are a lot of posts on various forums on the internet that mention it but very few people seem to actually have experience of it.

Mike

[Rasta Monsta]

Drift and BFH? It can't be stuck enough to withstand a few hard whacks.

Also loosen the camber bolt (outer sway bar mount) and the other big bolt.

[alfadoc]

Originally Posted by Ky914Newbie

The pro I had come out swore by Kroil (Like PB Blaster) but he thought it was much better.

BIG Kroil fan here.
Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

BTW, is removing the part from under the car an option? Tricky fastener removal is often easier when you can get the sub-assembly on the bench.

[MrTibbs]

Rasta - I've smacked it with a punch and hammer and didn't achieve anything other than ringing in my ears. And I was only trying to loosen it because the camber bolt wouldn't come out (I was putting a rear sway bar on so neede to put the double ended camber bolt in instead of the single one that had been in there from the factory). It took a gear puller to get the camber bolt out but I can't get the puller to fit on straight to push this one out.

Alfadoc; can't really drop the whole assembly to get at it as I don't have the time and my parts car is taking up my rented garage.

I might try putting a normal wrench on it and smacking the wrench with a hammer to create a sort of 'impact wrench'. That worked with the rear shock bolts before.

By the way - the camber bolt I took out has loads of white crud around the eccentric part. I'm assuming this is galvanic corrosion. I've put one in a jar of vinegar to see if the acid in that has any effect.

I think the key to this is either going to be a heat/cool thing, getting a grip and loads of torque on it or finding something that breaks down galvanic corrosion. Not sure it's a penetrating oil issue really.

Mike

[honerboys]

do you have access to a pneumatic air hammer - i've had pretty good luck using the pointed chisel attachment - dril a small dimple into the end of the bolt so the chisel won't wander - then go to town on it - it's loud but i've had very few bolts that won't at least move a bit - then you could work the bolt some and maybe get it out - good luck

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by Ky914Newbie

If you have enough of the bolt left to get a nut on, weld a new nut on the end.
Good Luck!

Second vote ^
One of many videos.
If you do not have a cheap wire welder----time for more tools!



GL
John

[petrolhead611]

I sure wouldn't like to be welding that near a possible leaking gas tank.

[petrolhead611]

Have you tried the bolt-out type of sockets? They have internal teeth that grip into the nut as you rotate the socket anti-clockwise. I bought mine in Sears but Halfords seem to have largely the same tools as Sears so take a look. You might be able to revolve the whole nut/bolt shaft assemblyand then work it out of the hole.

[vdubr928]

Welding blanket is cheap and will prevent fire. I would have already welded a nut on and had it back together. The heat from the weld colling helps too. A friend with a fire extinguisher is a good backup. Sometimes you just have to get her done.

The other way I've done this is to cut the nut side of the bolt off with a sawsall so you can pull the arm out. Then you can press the shank out of the sleeve. I know this is a pain but its not going to come out while you stand there looking at it have let us know what you come up with. I doubt any amounts of miracle oil will solve this. Help yes solve no. The acid was a good idea but as you see not a solution. Time for big guns and calling in favors.

P.s. good luck tibbs. If I was in uk id be there and you'd be supplying the killer beer that you guys have over there while I helped. Damn....... now I need a beer and its only 730.

[MrTibbs]

I'll hopefully get an hour or two to work on the car tonight, and have tomorrow off work to try to fix a few things so will let you all know how I get on.

I've bought enough tools recently so won't be buying welding gear just yet.

Mike

[Rasta Monsta]

Did you loosen the other one? It may just be mechanically binding in the hole.