Trans replace. do clutch too?
 

I did a search and was encouraged by how easy it sounds to pull (and replace) the transmission.

Is it easy to do the clutch while you are in there, or is this another GIGANTIC undertaking?

I have done modest mechanical work, timing belts and the like. I deleted the CC and the A/C off this car (with the proper delete bracket) and would like to take this on.

I have time, this is my autocrosser, so not DD if it takes longer than I plan. It never seems to go faster.

Thanks in advance gurus.

Clark's Garage Shop Manual says 16 hours. Clutch Replacement

The times I've done it, it's taken a couple weeks. There's just a lot of crap you have to do.

By itself, the transaxle is pretty easy to get out and in.

Is there any indication you need to replace the clutch? Have you checked to see how much disc is left? Checking Clutch Disc Wear

Unless there was some evidence you needed to replace it, I'd wait.

Also to consider: a new disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing's gonna set you back $600-$1,000 (OEM stock stuff).

Plus if you're gonna do that, you oughta also replace the clutch fork shaft bearings, the guide tube, the rear main seal, the pilot bearing, etc. That's a lot of expense for being proactive...

But if you've got the bucks and the time, then go for it - it'll save you a few hours sometime later.

I think that may have to wait.

The clutch is behaving just fine and has... besides, saving up for it would dictate that anyway.

Thanks for the quick reply.

They are both big jobs unless you have a hoist,that trans is a heavy little beast.

Thanks Porschetub.

I am lucky enough to have a neighbor with a tranny jack, so that should help.

Just keeping up with the "Joneses", he put in his LSD last season, and is thoroughly trouncing me. :)

Darn my neighbour hasn't even got a hammer,check the clutch over carefully,you can repack the thrust bearing as you can get" dry" but still be serviceable,replace your clutch disc if its worn.
The "Joneses" where I live don't even now "Porch" is :D:D:D:D

thanks again for the tips.

My neighbor drives a Dat Sun.... and autocrossing it wasn't his idea :)

I got my tranny in and out by myself... I'm a pretty small guy too....

Get the car up on stands, support tranny from beneath with a jack, unbolt tranny, slide coupler fowards, lower tranny.

If you don't have a trans jack, build yourself a support board to help steady the tranny. It's a 2 person job and very doable. The tranny is weighted toward the rear so finding a balance point would be very difficult w/ just a floor jack. Support board helps tremendously in that regard. Be careful of the cooler line.

If you notice, there is a hole on the bottom about 2/3 of the way back, rig a bolt/rod to fit into it off your bal board. This will help steady the tranny when removing/install. I made some "cups" out of wood to fit around the output shafts (cv joint mount) to help steady things side to side. It was an ugly contraption but worked very well.

If you have a tranny jack, then disregard !!

I just swapped transaxles in my 944 Spec car. A couple of hours to remove and about 4 hours to install. I have done this a number of times so the learning curve helps. At the track, two of us had a trans on the ground in 45 minutes. A late car will take a bit longer than an early car due to the change in trans mounts.

If you are going to do it by yourself then a transmission jack is a big help. I have done it with my floor jack and it can be challenging. Running the trans jack up and down with an impact gun cuts down on time.

Tips: Read Clarks Garage procedure and follow it step by step; cut a piece of wood to hold the clutch pedal down; hook up the shifter rod before you jack the trans and you bolt the trans to the trans mount; remember to put the shaft coupler on the trans shaft; do not lose the E clip that holds the shifter rod to the shifter; check the play in the shifter bushing while you are in there; wrap a piece of wire around the shift rod and around the shifter. This makes it easier to retrieve the rod; unbolt the CVs at the trans, put a plastic bag over them and let them hang; use new CV bolts and make sure there is no grease in the flange holes and remember to safety wire the pointed bolt that holds the shifter rod to the trans. Those holes in the bolt are there for a reason. I haven't lost one but I have seen that bolt fall out three times at the track.

Again, thanks to the gurus. I am trying to learn as much as I can going in...

wow... well that might explain a little... the collar clamp was broken near the transaxle.

Now I gotta see about a replacement. ... always something.

Did you use one of the delete brackets that lowers the center of gravity on the alternator? I wish to do this also but there is a lot of info tht doesn't mention this...

yes, I did... PM coming your way.

It's tough. Just finished one acouple weeks ago, 11 hours and I kept getting hung up on a bell housing bolt. If you it's the original I would replace it. If it's a turbo, haha pita...

Transmission OUT! (and for sale)
Thanks again pelicans for all of the help.

I inspected the clutch (per clark's garage procedure), and all's well.

Now to install the 5R unit.

I made a mistake assuming my new fly wheel had the reference sensor set correctly, and had to take everything apart again after putting it back together. With all the tools, and knowing how to get to everything, I had it apart in an evening, and put it back together the next morning.

Prior to having had all the tools(requiring trips to get things, that maybe stores didn't have), and knowing what I was doing, it took me a really really long time. :D

I'm really not looking forward to the next step in my project car: pulling the clutch and tranny. All to get a $5 RMS out. All my rubber seals in the engine and tranny were hard and leaking. I'm by myself and getting the trans out seems like it'll be like wrestling a fat pig. Research is the answer, I suspect. Just like all the previous projects on this car. Be nice to get it done.

Best of luck to you... a tranny jack is listed as optional. I can honestly say without it... it would have been MUCH harder. Worth the time to see if you can borrow/rent one.

One other piece of advice I got on the 4 bolts holding it to the bell housing... not everything should be attacked from below. If you have reach, don't be afraid to go outboard of the fuel filter.

Ohh, and you can't install the coupler screws until they are in place. I thought I had really screwed the pooch on that one.