Thanks 944 Porker, yes, all the fuses are good. double checked all of them.

guru944, are you talking about the Ignition Control Unit/module? The Bosch thing heat sinked to the wall? How would I check if that is working or not? I checked the plug going into it, got 12v.

I'll also start looking for all the grounds, is there a schematic or where they are located? or anyone know of some hard to see places worth checking?

Thanks

So you said that this all happened after a car wash. Do you know if the carpet by the passangers feet was wet afterwards. There might be a hole in the battery compartment, that hole will leak water onto the DME and could short it out. This is crappy but happens(been there). I don't know where you live but there is a local guy here that let me borrow a DME to check to see if that was my problem. I plugged in the new DME and my car fired right up. If you have a buddy with a 944 it might be a good idea to try borrowing the DME.

yeah happened after a car wash and after the starter got stuck engaged. I checked the DME area, it's not wet and there's no hole for the water to get in there. I have another DME but that's for an NA and this is an S and apparently they're different.

I have a spare DME for an S model if you need to use to test.

I belive i have another spare one, but i swapped it with a DME from an 87 NA that I use as my daily driver. Are the relays for the S and the NA Different?

And, I switched out the ignition switch. No change. (other than now the cruise control unit buzzes/clicks when the key is in position 2)

Oh, I was talking about the actual DME (ECU Unit) not the DME relay.

mhariush - I was talking about the DME (ECU Unit) as well. Not the relay. The ECU is different between most years. But sometimes different years will work in your car, at least to test the problem.

Oh i see, where are you located? I know the DME's for the S are different, 55 pins vs something else. I tried putting the one from my 87 NA (same year) but it didn't have the right amount of pins.

I'm in Pasadena, PM me if you're interested.

Wiring Schematics, Gospel of S/S2
 

to brother Maruish:

As you requested, I scanned my Diagrams files, to big to upload to this board. **PM me with a suitable email to forward the diagrams.** This should help "Big Time"...
The Ignitor only has 4 wires.

pin 1 green to coil
pin 2 brown ground
pin 4 black to coil to relay g13
pin 5 green t0 pin 1 on DME conn - pin1 dme (shielded to pin 14 dme conn)

note:

All engine sensor shields are grounded to MP Vlll amd MP lX

If you have questions, please contact me.

Later SmileWavy

I tried test point 15 on page 136 of the 16V manual.
I connected a test lead with a spade on each end to the two pins it says. But nothing happened. Then i turned the key to "on", still nothing. I tried Cranking the engine and i heard the fuel pump start for a short burst, but then everything went dead. The clock went dead, the engine didn't crank either. And i think i took the key out, and put it back in but still nothing. Then I disconnected the battery and connected it again and the clock, lights etc started working again and the car cranks.

How old is your battery? Take your meter and check the volts of the battery. It should be around 12.5 I believe.

heygreenwater, the battery does read a little less than that, around 11.9, I am using a battery from my other running car, and put the new battery in that, trying to keep them both reasonably charged as I keep trying to crank the stalled car.

My old N/A 944 would do the same thing occasionally. I would have to clean the connectors to the reference sensors. It does fine for months then doesn't start and I have to clean it again...

You could have a bad main ground cable from the battery to the body and engine block.

I ended up towing it to a shop, G-Man Automotive in Culver City. He diagnosed it and got it running.

The Ignition Module was dead, I had tried with a new module but never heat sinked it to the fender so it didnt get grounded and thus didnt work.

Also he said the white relay (i only spoke to him on the phone so not sure which relay he refers to) was also dead.

So now the car runs! Lesson learned, always pull and install Ignition Module with heat sink even if the old one might still be good (which it wasn't in this case).