Need help with clutch installation
 

Hey guys, I'm new to the forums and new to the 944 so I figure I'll introduce myself right now as I ask my first question.

Just picked up a 1983 944 from a friend of mine (marks924s) and we're replacing the clutch. We've been following the clark's garage tutorial, and we've got the car disassembled all the way up to the clutch housing.

This is where we're stuck.

There's supposed to be some kind of 8mm bolt that threads into the clutch housing? Neither one of us has any idea what it is. Also, neither one of us has assembled a clutch before, so we're not really sure how everything goes together. If anyone has some pictures of an assembled clutch, or that 8mm bolt, i'd really appreciate them.

These cars are like a puzzle game to take apart... but scarier :)

Thanks for your help!

Also, if you haven't dropped the transaxle out of one of your cars yet, DON'T USE A REGULAR FLOOR JACK. 110 pounds is scary when it's teetering over your head.

What you need to do is take out the clutch fork pin. The pin has an 8mm thread that allows you to thread a bolt in, so it can be pulled out. First thing you need to do is loosen the lock nut / bolt that holds the pin in place.. it will be the only bolt/nut visible from outside the bell housing.

The longer bolt you can get to thread into the fork pin, the better..sometimes the pin can be stuck in there pretty good so it may require hammering, a longer bolt will give you more space to swing the hammer. What i do is thread the bolt in and clamp the end of the bolt with a vice grips. Then either wiggle the vice grips back and fourth while pulling out or give it a few taps with a hammer. You can use a slide hammer also, but probably not enough space to use it unless the car is on a lift.

In this picture, the clutch fork pin and bolt are directly under the torque tube. Not a great picture but should give you an idea.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_7161.jpg

One other thing that'll really help when it comes time to take the bellhousing off. Use a jack to tilt the engine back - it'll tend to rock forward when the TT is disengaged from it. I know the tutorials say to support it 'under the oilpan' but you need to jack the front of the engine up to get the housing off.

Have fun!

Thanks for the advice guys!

We're planning on doing the engine mounts too, so we're undoing them before we take the clutch housing off. Those bolts are just impossible to get at.

Also, is this the part that i need to thread the 8mm bolt into and pull out? and if so, does it have to be done before the housing is removed?

http://i.imgur.com/9gMTf.jpg

Yes that is the part. The clutch fork pin must be removed before the bell housing will come off.

Unless you wanna have your faithful assistant rotate the engine while you remove the PP bolts through the starter hole...

What do you have to support the engine while doing the mounts? Normally, you support the engine vertically, and the torque tube/transmission supports the engine in the other dimensions of travel. With no torque tube attached, when you remove the engine mounts, the engine is free to go anywhere, and that is not a good thing.

Engine can be supported from above; you can use something like this support brace from Harbor Freight ($75 about) or do the Home Depot special with a piece of super strut, a couple pieces of wood on the strut towers and some chain.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...o/IMG_7828.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...o/IMG_7820.jpg

The shaft for the Clutch Fork is hard to pull in most cases. I heated the back of the bellhousing with a propane torch to expand the metal slightly, used a longer bolt that I bought at Home Depot and used vise grips on the end with a twisting motion to finally pull it out. After you get the bell housing off, invest in a set of new needle bearings for the shaft. Use a small socket to knock out the old ones and tap the new ones in but be careful that they go in square to the new hole. Grease the bearing before you install them. Take some fine Wet/Dry sandpaper of very fine grit or steel wool to clean any corrosion of the shaft before you re-insert it and the clutch fork back into the bell housing. If the bearings are installed properly, the shaft should go in snugly but without any issues.

Just did clutch job on my 87 throw away the repair manual and go to Clarks garage. The clutch removal instrutctions go step by step. To get that pin out use a long 8 mm bolt. Get some needle nise vise grip plyers and attach and lock at bottom of bolt. Hit the blank out of plyers till it comes out. Good luck!

Hello, The link below will show everything you need to know about changing the Clutch. It is a great DIY with lots of picture.

944 Online Forum - The Porsche 944 Forum For The 944 Enthusiast.

Cheers,
Larry

You guys are making my life so much easier. Thanks for all the replies!

Ok, so slowly but surely we're making progress. The new clutch is in, and we have to torque down the pressure plate bolts. Any recommendations on a particular pattern for tightening them?

Also, clark's garage says to torque the clutch housing bolts to 54 ft*lbs, but I'm not sure i can get my torque wrench up into the area where the driverside bolt goes. Taking it off involved a crazy knuckle+extension+extremelystrongfriend combination. Any suggestions?

For the record, we left the motor mounts in for this job.

(I'll put up some pictures tomorrow)

Just wanted to let you all know that as of 4am today, my first 944 is back in one piece! Everything seems to be working just fine, and I'm using all my willpower to break in the clutch properly. (I'd upload some pictures but none of them came out very good)

Thanks again for all your help!

congrats man, there is nothing on the car that can stop you now haha!

Sounds like you had fun..