Cracked lower BS housing - do I...

[Slam]

... pull the housing and replace it? Mand and I just bought an '87 auto (I'll tell you later). I've been doing as much maintenance as I have parts for. Just got done a complete top-end reseal and had moved on to the FOES. Everything came apart okay (didn't even strip the cam bolt!) but when I got to the lower BS I found it didn't spin easily, one front bolt was stripped and upon further investigation I discovered green JB Weld-type plastic metal on the housing, just aft of the four bolts holding the front of that housing onto the block.

I have spare housings from an 85/1 motor. Are they the same as the 87?

One part of me wants to complete the FOES (and various other jobs) and button it up and see if it leaks. That same part of me wants to know if the BS will spin easily after I use the right parts to fix its nose. If it behaves, I'll keep an eye on the housing and change it l;ater.

Another part of me (the same one that saw milkshake and said, "Dude, shop manual says replace rod bearings.") says change the housing while you're doing the rod bearings.

Thoughts? Be nice about it being a slushbox... We got it for $1K and drove it home, leaking rad and all (yes, I DID recrimp the rad but the L/H tank has failed).

We're into this project four days now. Sheesh...

[Volhv]

The covers are different unfortunately.
Clark's Garage has some pictures of the torque sequence for different years.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/eng-14.pdf

I also heard that the BS covers are matched to the block, so even if you did get one from the correct year, it might not seal properly.

[John_AZ]

Slam,

Finding a $1000 944 close by is a deal hard to pass on.

I am confused which of your cars has the bad balance shaft housing, but it does not matter.

The balance shaft housing is honed to the block as a matched set.

The PO used JB Weld on the crack, I would just try to have the housing repaired/welded at a good shop.

The alternative is to get a used block.

GL
John

[Slam]

Thanks, guys. Yes, the housings are matched to the blocks. The early ones have bearing bridges so housing specs may not be critical, but the 87 and later ones' bridges are integrated. After sleeping on this one, I've decided to turn a blind eye to it for now. If it becomes a gusher I'll have it welded.

John, it's an '87.

We got it from a guy who won it on E-bay about 4 years ago. He bought it after low-balling the owner in New York, and he and his girlfriend flew down from Edmonton and drove it back. It sat for the next 4 years - he never drove it, I think because he was in way over his head. I don't know who worked on it before he got it (he didn't do anything but change the power steering pump), but the PO butchery is almost heartbreaking. The worst has been finding that there was no woodruff key in the lower BS nose so who knows if it was timed or not, the top BS was out by 2 teeth, and it seems the resulting vibes cracked the lower BS housing. I could go on...but I'd need more coffee.

[matty89]

can u just delete the balancer shafts ? and reweld the casing to make it leak proof ?

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by matty89

can u just delete the balancer shafts ? and reweld the casing to make it leak proof ?

Just for matty :

Well....yes,
Rennlist Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Who has done away with balance shafts?

The usual answer given if you think you can just remove the B belt:
1. The fuel rail will vibrate until it cracks and a big fire begins.

2. The oil pickup tube will shake until it cracks and the engine will starve for oil.

John

[Guest765]

+1 to john. Balance shaft delete is a very poor choice.

[Slam]

+2 to John. Not going that route.

But I am going to try to fix the rad by removing the leaking side tank and replacing it. Just for the sake of trying it.