CV joint Rebuildable

benzor · 05-21-2013, 08:33 AM

I had a leak on the inner driver's side boot, so I took the CV joint off. There is a mark on the cage that is unique, appears to show more wear than the other surfaces, shown in the first picture. The second picture is the other side of the same cage. Could someone who has rebuilt their CV's before comment?

As an aside, does anyone know the specs on the CV bolts - two were stripped in the process, and I'd like to buy them at the hardware store.

Slam · 05-21-2013, 09:26 AM

Pics of the races and the ball bearings would be better, but if it was me, I'd rebuild the CV and flip it so it runs the opposite direction. These things last forever if rebuilt/lubed and reversed.

As to the CV bolts, sorry, I don't know the specs.

John_AZ · 05-21-2013, 09:43 AM

Just to plug Ideolas garage...

His "super HD" are M8 x 50

Ideola's Garage: Suspension Upgrades

Pelican parts says M8 x 45 and I have seen M8 x 48--- I would measure.

Not a standard bolt ---must use hardened/HD . No soft metal bolts.

The CV Bearing carrier looks pitted and it might be time to get a good used CV joint.
How did the bearings look? Any scaring?

On the inner CV block, do you have wear scars?

All signs of needing replacement.

GL
J_AZ

HondaDustR · 09:52 AM

I want to say they're M8. PET doesn't specify. The hardware store might not have metric bolts of sufficient strength. They might work temporarily, but I'd use OEM replacement hardware long term. It makes a pretty big mess under there if the half shaft comes loose.

Edit: John must have some archive of informative responses to all 944 questions to paste into threads at a moment's notice! Beat me in mid post again...

But yeah, that's just the thing that keeps the balls aligned. Look on the inner and outer bearing surfaces for any pitting, grooving, or abnormal wear. Those retainer cages look much less worn than the ones from my CV joints I rebuilt awhile ago and those worked fine.

Mike_944 · Mike_944's Garage

The bolts use a 8mm, 12 point internal tool

Slam · 05-21-2013, 11:39 AM

Torque to 30ft/lbs, not 18 as some believe.

Gawernator · Gawernator's Garage

I feel like it was a little bit higher than 30 ft/lbs... 34? I got the OEM Febi bolts from Pelican. Save the hassle. Hardware store probably won't have it

Slam · 05-21-2013, 12:18 PM

Certain it's 30. But I agree about just biting the bullet and buying new bolts.

Oh, and trust me - you can't possibly be the worst mechanic I know...

Gawernator · Gawernator's Garage

I spent like 5 hours rebuilding the throttle body -

benzor · 05-21-2013, 08:30 PM

They are in fact M8x48, what a weird size.

Bearings and block both looks good - shiny points, but no lines / cracks / metal fatigue.

Annoyingly, found a small hole in the exhaust pipe about 1 inch in front of muffler. Will have to see if it can be welded - the exhaust does not have a lot of miles on it.

FrenchToast · 05-21-2013, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benzor

I'd like to buy them at the hardware store.

Unless your hardware store is more commonly known as the Porsche dealer, I doubt that's gonna happen. Maybe, (big maybe), if you have a hardware SUPPLY store, maybe. But they're likely going to need to order it.

Again, hardness is the issue. Not all bolts are alike.

Also, for the time and cost to repack a CV joint you should consider just replacing the whole axle assembly.

Take care,

Grandad#3 · 05-21-2013, 11:46 PM

If you buy from other than a Porsche Parts place the CV Bolts should be of a Grade #8 shear strength at the lowest.

Cheers,
Larry

Gawernator · Gawernator's Garage

The bolts are $0.75 each just get them! Lol

John_AZ · 05-22-2013, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HondaDustR

Edit: John must have some archive of informative responses to all 944 questions to paste into threads at a moment's notice! Beat me in mid post again...

1987 silver 924S - Rebuilt motor! Survived 45K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, no more K&N air filter, MSD Blaster 2 coil (no ballast resistor), Steel braided brake lines, Magnecore wires, Weltmeister throttle cam. Needs 8 more valves!

Hi HondaDustR,

Just a coincidence.

45K!! I do have your engine rebuild bookmarked.
My maintenance posts do not compare to your ability.
Great to hear all is good.

J_AZ

HondaDustR · 05-22-2013, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John_AZ

Hi HondaDustR,

Just a coincidence.

45K!! I do have your engine rebuild bookmarked.
My maintenance posts do not compare to your ability.
Great to hear all is good.

J_AZ

Yeah...was just brutally busy finishing school the past couple years, but that's done and I'm off into the real world, which pays money. < (good for car projects!) The engine still runs great. It could use a new valvetrain and there's a couple oil seals that need replacing. Just got done with my third water pump replacement and this time shot a bunch of video to make a start to finish DIY vid explaining and showing all of the tips, tricks, and pitfalls I've absorbed over the years of wrenching and forum surfing for this car. Stay tuned!

benzor · 05-23-2013, 07:45 AM

Dealer has the bolts for $2.04 each, for future reference.

benzor · 05-23-2013, 07:46 AM

Will definitely want to see the video, HondaDustR

benzor · 05-23-2013, 08:23 PM

So I was putting the joint back on tonight, and it was quite tough going.

1) I'm swapping the inner for the outer on the driver's side CV
2) I oriented the splined inner part so that the side facing the concave washer was facing in

It wouldn't push on by hand, so I tapped it on with a socket and a hammer. I wasn't wailing on it, but they weren't love taps either - I had to use a bit of force. Normal? Could I have accidentally reversed the tapered inner piece and had it going on backwards? Other than the marking from the concave washer, is there a way to tell?

It is almost all the way on - I can see the groove that the end of the axle. But it doesn't want to go that last bit. Should I take it off and try again?

benzor · 05-29-2013, 08:48 AM

I didn't see any responses to the note above - wondering if I put this thing on backwards?

On a related note, the CV kit sold on pelican has the wrong concave washer included. The one coming off the car is toothed to interface with the splines, and the diameter is slightly too large - it doesn't catch on the lip at the end of the splined section.

thekidd · 01:16 PM

This is for a 914, but its exactly the same process that you would as on a 944.
CV joint rebuild part 1-http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=LsytyVzokBg
CV joint rebuild part 2-http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KOma2BMhrzc
I think there is only one way to put together, don't think it's possible to reassemble it wrong. Just reverse it, and it should go back together fairly smoothly.