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And when I go to order parts, I need the bearing set, rod nuts, pan gasket, and what else? I'll look it up, but I thought there was a certain sealant that is applied to the corners of the pan gasket to help seal it.

Yup, those seals are done and it's been leaking for a while.

Yes, parts list as above. You may not need sealant for the pan gasket, but there's lots of posts on doing that. You know, once you've done the OC seals and the rod bearings all you've got left is the clutch and regular FOES - that motor will run forever.

[QUOTE=akron;7597156] Question here: anybody willing to admit they did NOT do the bearing change after oil cooler/head gasket maintenance? Oh, that's gonna get er goin'!

There's aways some "Cheap-O" that will gamble on the lower end hoping the bearings are OK. Let me be the first to step up and claim that title. Last year my son overheated his 1988, blew the HG, had oil in the water and melted every vacuum line on the motor and some wiring insulation. Replaced the HG, OC seals, FOES seals and belts. That was close to 25,000 miles ago, the kid never stops.

If we had water in the oil I would not have taken the chance. When the OC seals let go you end up with oil in the water. When the OC itself craps out you end up with oil in the water and water in the oil. If you have milkshake in the crank case chances are the rod bearings are toast.

Finish what you're working on and flush out the crank case and fill it with fresh oil and try it. If you ran it very little you might be ok. If you have good OP you might get lucky.

I agree. OP said he had milkshake, which is why I mentioned it. When my 83's HG and OC went south I had no coolant in the oil but did the rod bearings anyway. Not hard, and I slept better.

Kudos to your offspring!

When the OC housing came out, the sleeve for the OPRV came out of the block with it and fell off. I wasn't aware that one end is different than the other, i.e. the OPRV plunger only goes into the sleeve one way. I assume the end that it will not go into is the one to go into the block, so that the plunger can enter it when the housing is installed? Is the plunger supposed to seat into the sleeve and stop at the end of it?
Thanks! ...still waiting on parts... Delayed by OPRV alignment tool.

Anybody had any experience with the OPRV sleeve described above? Thanks!

The No. 1 plug may be oil fouled from a bad valve guide or valve guide seal. Changing to a hotter plug or a quad-electrode bosch platinum may help. You certainly don't want the plug to foul and quit firing and wash out the cylinder and ruin the rings.

Repairing the valve guide/seal is a separate topic.

Finally got parts and alignment tool. Not overly impressed with the tool. Might not have waited so long for it if I knew it was going to be marginally helpful. Anyways, got the OPRV sleeve back in the block, then got the OC gaskets installed and the OC assembly back on the engine. Did not torque down yet, but snug. Have to get some sleep - grandchildren in the morning.

Finally back to work. Put things back together and used Clark's procedure. I have no oil pressure. The red light stays lit and the needle doesn't move at all. I just poured oil into the AOS tube and not primed anything like the filter. Did I miss something? The oil pressure sender wires are secure and the gauge worked before. Is there a way to check oil pressure other than the gauge? I ran it for about 5 seconds a couple of times. No tappet sounds, but heard a slight squeal that it thought sounded like a belt and shut down. OPRV seemed to go in okay, had to apply some pressure on the spring while installing it. Nothing out of the ordinary on reassembly...puzzled.

Just read Clark's oil pressure troubleshooting. Will try tomorrow. Gonna check prime on the oil pump, OPRV.

Pulled OPRV, DME relay and cranked engine. Got no oil out of the OPRV channel. Found a thread where someone suggests applying vacuum to the OPRV hole to make sure oil pump is primed and then cranking. I got some milkshake out that was probably left over but the oil pump doesn't pump oil out of the hole on its own. I did have normal oil pressure before I did the oil cooler gaskets. Any ideas? The oil cooler assembly seemed to seat nicely.

Sorry. Don't know the magic trick to get that thing pumping - seems like this has happened before? I guess you already did a search on the topic.

Only things I can come up with are 1) are you certain there's oil in the pan? (sorry, have to ask), and 2) crank nut tight? (almost for sure it is but need to check).

The real problem is the pump isn't primed? I don't know how to handle that.

PS - what's your location?

I am in Anchorage, Alaska. Winter is on the way and I really wanna drive it once before snow. I suffer...

I have not verified crank nut is tight. Will try later tonight if I can.

I added 6 qt of new oil to the case and have a good level on the stick. I even temporarily added another qt to make sure that I have a good oil level in the case.

I saw a couple methods to make sure pump is primed. One to apply pressure to the AOS cap through a hole with a compressor and another to apply vacuum to the OPRV sleeve with a shop vac. Not much vacuum pressure with the shop vac, so don't know how effective that will be. Clarks page also mentions pouring oil down filter openings. Have to try harder to get the filter off without damaging it. No room there!

I just cant see the oil pump failing while it sits on jack stands. There was pressure before I started...ugh!

Ok, I'm getting ready to dive back into this thing. Crank nut was tight. That was a while ago. Ugh! Life got in the way, and a wedding project for my daughter. I am thinking I will pull the engine to a stand and investigate the oil sump, replace bearings and the oil seal. Also while it is out do the rear main, balance shaft seals, FOES. This might sound like a stupid question, but has anyone got a way to test for oil pressure before putting the engine back in the car? I reall don't wanna fight zero oil pressure after putting it back in. Or is this just the way it is? Thanks for any ideas.

Nooo
 

Man, what a project. This morning i decided to take my 85/2 to get some brunch, I hadn't driven it for a while, put some coolant in (somewhere its leaking very slowly) and heard a some-what low oil sound. I thought maybe it needed to warm up, and eventually the sound went away.

After brunch I realized I had some oil in the spare tire area, so I popped the hood, checked the dipstick and SH.. I checked the coolant, which it looked like it was way low, stuck my finger in and a lil milkshake in there too. I hadn't noticed any white smoke out the tailpipe PTL but it looks like I've got a similar situation.

Right now I don't have an actual garage, I'm looking at a house to buy which has 2 garages, but still a little weary about doing this all my self. Right now my car is still in the parking deck, because I didn't want to make anything else worse, and I'm thinking about dragging it home behind my work truck, and then if I end up getting the place, dragging it there to change out the gasket set and also the bearings. Since I got the car in '11, thankfully I haven't had to do any major work to it, but this might be the first. With the whole buying a house thing, I really don't want to pay someone else to fix it, if I can, but at the same time the show I am working on doesn't give me too much time off for life, or working on a '44.

I've read several different forums about this and have noticed that the bearing replacement is pretty much a must. What about a radiator replacement? I know mine has been leaking slowly, and I replaced the flush screw which seemed to be the problem, but is it needed (just another $-400).

From what I have gathered, I need:
Oil Coolers & Seals
1 Oil Filter/Cooler Housing Gasket, 944-107-147-03
1 Oil Cooler to Housing Seal, 944-107-153-02
1 Oil Cooler to Housing Spacer Washer, 944-107-154-00
2 Adjusting Shims for Oil Cooler, 944-107-219-00
2 Oil Cooler O-Rings, 999-707-043-40

Oil Pressure Sleeve Alignment Tool for 944

Oil Pressure Relief Valve O-Ring
1 or 2 of these? I would think it came in the gasket kit, but maybe not..?

For the bearings, is it just the connecting rod bearings that I need to replace, or the crankshaft bearings too? I see in the suggested there is also a rod nut?
Rod Bearing Set
Main Engine Bearing Set, Std1

If i have to...Radiator

I've also seen people say that you might as well do the timing belt, water pump, and HG while your at it. Thats a lot, why not just do a whole rebuild... I'm trying to do one thing at a time. This isn't my daily driver now, but it is in between film jobs, and I know this one is over at the end of July, so I've got a little time.

Any suggestions and advice is greatly appreciated!

Yes, a suggestion.
I would copy and delete this post and start a brand new post.
You need fresh eyes for answers.

J_AZ

Engine out
 

I've got the engine out and going to reaccomplish oil cooler gasket install and all seals I can find. also going to prime the oil pump - with pictures...think I am on to something.

Sounds like your OPVR sleeve, which should be press fit and glued into the block, is not.

You have the 3-piece OPVR, meaning plunger, spring and threaded cap. The sleeve that you describe above should be attached firmly to the block.

Look in the shop manual for more information on this....

Good luck!

Oil cooler and oil flow
 

I have the engine on the stand. I am investigating why I lost oil pressure. I still have to remount the OPRV sleeve and seal it. One thing I wanted to test is the idea that you prime the oil pump by pouring oil down the center hole of the oil filter mount. I traced that hole down through the OC housing and that center hole actually runs into the oil galley to the bearings etc! The outer hole runs through the OC to the channel that runs down past the OPRV and then back to the oil pump. I found a good writeup about the oil flow here: Porsche 944 Oiling System Explained | New Hill Garage
I will include more pictures here later or in a separate thread - maybe better. But, here is a question. With the engine on the stand, oil pan off, I poured oil into the block and saw it run past the OPRV hole and it ran into the pump. Then it began to pour out of the oil sump hole. I thought "Good, I now understand how it flows." Then I saw oil dripping from the slot in the front of the crankshaft cradle, right behind the oil pump. I have no idea what the slot is for or if oil should be able to flow through there. It seems that it would bleed pressure from the pump and possibly be the cause of no oil pressure. Anybody know? Picture below shows the little slot on the bottom of the cradle next to the oil pump.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426892533.jpg