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Blower motor resistor : green material UPDATE: fan, not blower!
What's the green coating on the blower motor resistor spade connectors? Late MY NA. it's the two white discs, passenger side, near the blower intake. The green stuff stands out - but I'll get a pic over if need be.
UPDATE : this is not the BMR. Hopes and dreams - gone. Last edited by Bukowski; 04-02-2016 at 12:10 PM.. Reason: Information |
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Location: Nashville, TN
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copper oxidation?
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If it is, then how it got to look the way it does...
Lemme get the pic.... |
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here we are:
__________________
87 944 NA |
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Looks identical to mine. I need to clean these things up soon. Going to cut off the wires and solder on some new ones with silicone insulation. Yes the green stuff is corrosion..
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Is this THE blower motor resistor - so if it's replaced, all the fan speeds will work? That is, is there another one somewhere else?
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These resistors are for the radiator cooling fans. The resistors are probably fine. The wiring and the connections is more than likely the issue. The resistors themselves are pretty robustly made.
The resistors for the air blower motor are on the blower motor itself. My switch on the dash is giving me an issue. I can tap it and the blower will work on the slower speeds. It usually only works on the high speed. I suspect the switch or the connector on the back needs to be checked and cleaned. Last edited by dgcantrell; 03-29-2016 at 11:49 AM.. |
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Corrosion in a 30 year old electrical system is death by a thousand cuts. That said the terminals and wiring in these cars is very high quality and unless there is an obvious loss in conduction between the terminal and the wire I would leave well enough alone. At most I would spray it with a good corrosion inhibitor (CRC brand maybe) and clean it with a toothbrush or small wirebrush. Then disconnect the terminal, squeeze the terminal tight with pliers, and reconnect it to get good metal on metal contact.
The one terminal I see a benefit in re-soldering is the main ground cable to the bell housing since it is a wire in solid copper terminal instead. |
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Actually, I think they are accessible from the top. The assembly lifts out. There should be an electrical plug connected to it. But I'd check the switch on the dash first. It's the thing with moving parts in it. Those mess up first.
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As an epilogue to this thread - dielectric grease ok for the metal here? It's going to get hot, right?
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Silicone grease (dielectric grease) will work fine for this application. With a good connection, it really should not generate that much heat.. The problem is that they did not use it from the factory.
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Well well well
I’m planning a small story for a separate post, but til then : What’s the story with the wires? Is it a wire harness that Pelican or Porsche would have? Is there a part number? How to access it from I assume inside? Does it plug into the fuse box? How? Thanks! |
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