Anyone else warp rotors ALL the time?

[Jfrahm]

Yes you can wreck the MC if you drop the pedal all the way to the floor. Sometimes there is crud on the piston in the MC in the area that it not typically used and when it's forced past the MC seals they start to leak.

Pressure bleeding is a better first step though. I also use a method where you compress the brakes for some hours and then bleed a corner at a time. Compress, wait, bleed RR. Compress again, wait again, bleed LR. Compress, wait, bleed RF. etc. The idea is that air bubbles under pressure collect and move to a spot where they can be evacuated more easily, or they migrate up to the MC. I usually do this with a scrap of wood wedged against the front seat and the brake pedal. I leave it overnight or over the workday for each corner.

When you bleed in this manner just get one good quick shot of brake fluid per corner.

-Joel.

[Slam]

333pg333 - I don't have the drilled rotors on the car. They're on standby.

Fiat - that's exactly how I'm bleeding.

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by 333pg333

I'd dump the drilled rotors and just go to stock.

Me too ,waste of time

[Slam]

Bled again, and got tiny, tiny bubbles from RR and RF. Pedal feels much better. I'll give the pads a couple more days to bed to the rotors.

I will say that thanks to you lot I'll save a small fortune now I'm not going to be throwing pads and rotors at the car thinking they're needed every time I get a pulsation.

Cheers!

[amazongreenie]

I am using ATE Rotors with Textar pads. When cool, no issue but when heated I get a building, serious wobble. My 930 track car had similar issue but spider cracks in the drilled holes caused the warping as the rotors got hot. Changed rotors and no longer an issue. But the 996 has under 5000 miles (500 track miles) on new pads and rotors and problem just began showing up. There is no lip and no evidence of spider cracks on the rotors. Pads look good as do the rotors but I am leaning toward changing both.
Any thoughts? No plans to shave the rotors...

[flash968]

it is almost impossible to warp rotors. you can read about this on the stoptech site. very common myth, and a way for a shop to sell you rotors. in 30 year of doing this, i can count on one hand the number of warped rotors i've seen, though i have had countless shops tell me they were warped. unfortunately, the solution to the problem is usually still new rotors.

the problem is almost always deposits. if you are staying with the same kind of pad, you can often surface the rotors and be fine. if you are changing compound though, and it pulses, it will never stop. if you are changing compound on the pad, then change the rotor.

as for drilled rotors, it really depends on the rotor. done wrong, they crack. done right, they help quite a bit, assuming you push the car hard enough to see the benefit. on a grocery getter, you'll never use what they provide. really only on the track will you see the benefit on these cars. on larger and heavier cars though, they can really make a difference. they made a huge difference on the SL550, and the 06 yukon denali.

[peteb]

Hi,

I suggest checking the run-out of any newly installed disk. If it is out of specification, you develop a "warped" rotor. The rotor is not actually warped, but, you get uneven wear that causes the brakes to pulsate.

Run-out could come from the hub or an uneven interface between the hub and the rotor. In this case, every time a new rotor is installed it will "warp" in short order. The rotor could be made wrong too.

Functional dial gauges are fairly inexpensively from your local tool importer.

Peter

[rickharrison]

Deposits for sure...I had a set of Zimmerman cross-drilleds on my wife's A4, and the pads they matched up were crap...they filled the holes in the rotors with material and the brakes would shake like a virgin on prom night.

Very annoying...the cross-drilled looks awesome, but I don't want to carry a pressure washer with me to keep blasting the pad material out of the holes every few days.

I switched to a better matched set of rotors and pads...voila, shaking gone.

Just my experience....make sure the pads and rotors are well matched for each other- IE: white box rotors with Pagid Blues = shake 'n bake. lol

Good luck Slam...from a fellow Canuck.

[Dean924s]

I was having that issue. On a whim I got a set of Centric rotors off Amazon for something like $22 delivered to me door. I figured that they were cheap so who cared if they only lasted a season. I have had no issues with them and it is 4 years later.

[steveo12345]

Had the same issue a while back on my S2. Was going through rotors. Found out that there was an issue with the hubs that were on my car. I swapped out the hubs and have not had a problem since. I don't recall the details. The part numbers on the hubs were different.