control arm replacement

[gforces944]

It feels/sounds like I'm going to need to replace my front left control arm. Pelican lists a new one for $433.70. Does anyone know of any good deals?

Secondly, I'm wondering how difficult this would be if I did it myself? I do much of my own maintenance (only that which doesn't require special tools or skills, which is not much on the 944) and want to know if anybody here has done this themselves? I'd hate to give someone else my money for something I could do myself in a day or weekend.

[gforces944]

Well I found a source on how to do it...I haven't read through it thoroughly, but it seems like I can probably do this myself...

http://www.rennlist.com/techarticles/944ControlArmReplace.htm

in case anyone else needs to know...but I'd still like to know if anybody has done this themselves, and what kind of problems you may have had doing this...something that the site doesn't describe.

Thanks everybody...I LOVE THIS SITE

[kenny]

you can also replace the balls on both sides for $175 which I am going to do shortly -- no later than Christmastime. I have the kit, I just have to install. Some thought it was kind of expensive, but there seemed to be no cheaper alternatives that I could find.



http://www.ssiauto.com/porsche944/

[97XRAY]

Can you tell us (me) more about what was wrong with the suspension / steering that led you to the conclusion that you needed to replace the control arm?
I'm trying to find a click in my steering / suspension myself (if the rain would end) and any information you have would be appreciated.

[gforces944]

When the left side needed replacement, it would make this klunk sound when the that side came under load. I guess it could qualify as a click, but it would be a loud click. If your "click" is similar to what I might think it is, it could possibly be this:
When you're turning the steering wheel, and you hit a bump or a sudden incline, or something to cause the suspension to move in the middle of a turn, such as going up a driveway diagonally.
If this is what you're experiencing, I would say that it's the control arm, especially if your car has high mileage (more than 100k) and you've never replaced them before.

Kenny, thanks for the info. Where did you get the kit? Looks like I don't have any excuse not to do this myself now

[kenny]

the link is in my previous message

There is also another place here in TX that will rebuild @ $150/ea you send arms, Or Zimm's for rebuilt (core required -- they have bushings also) bushings are extra either way-- I think I had a previous post on this -- check the archive.

[944s2cab]

I just replaced my driver side. I had the same questions before going into it but dived right in. I jacked up just the drivers side with two jacks. Pulled the wheel. I removed all the bolts with relative ease and arm came out without much trouble. I did not diconnect anything not bolted to the control arm - it wasn't necessary. I used a rubber mallet when needed. I got my rebuilt control arm from a distributor for $150...it was fully checked, new bushings, repainted very clean. It included new ball joints with an upgraded one for more strength. Out of repect for Pelican, I cannot promote it but I found the ad in Excellence magazine. Installing the control arm took some pushing and aligning but finally everything went into place. I did not have torque specs but made sure everything was pretty tight. If anyone has specs, I'll take them. The bolt clamping the ball joint was main concern but later realized through BBS help that it can only go in one way. My symptons (that klunck sound reference by someone earlier) is gone. My car rides over bumps more solidly and it is not as squirley as once was but there are still some vibrations and movement which I hope will go away when I do the passenger side. Rebuilding an arm verses replacing, at $300 a pair vs $175 for parts, I chose rebuild. I would imagine there are a few minor additional expenses in rebuilding as well.

[944s2cab]

Opps, I meant 'replace' with a rebuilt arm verses rebuilding in the above reply. Sorry.

[gforces944]

That's good to know. Would you mind if I contacted you if I started to experience trouble when I do it? The rennlist faq explains it pretty well for people like me as well. Here are the torque specs from that page:

Torque Specifications
Location Thread Tightening Torque
Control arm to cross member, lock nut M12 x 1.5 mm 48 ftlb, 65 Nm
Control arm bearing assembly (caster eccentric) to body, bolt M10 34 ftlb, 46 Nm
Control arm bearing to control arm, lock nut VM12 x 1.5 74 ftlb, 100 Nm
Clamp for stabilizer (sway bar), lock nut M8 17 ftlb, 23 Nm
Stabilizer linkage to control arm, lock nut M10 18 ftlb, 24 Nm
Control arm ball joint to steering knuckle, lock nut M10 37 ftlb, 50 Nm
Light alloy wheel to hub, lug nut M14 96 ftlb, 130 Nm

Note that the torque spec for the control arm bearing assembly to the control arm is for the updated VM12 x 1.5 lock nuts. The older style M12 x 1.5 lock nuts were torqued to 63 ftlb, 85 Nm.

[944s2cab]

thanks for the torque specs. I'll recheck everything once I do the passenger side. If anything, I over tightened...any danger in too much torque? my email is montrealf1@cs.com if you have some questions.

[kenny]

I guess not the size-of-bolt you are talking about and torque you can apply without using a cheater-bar.

Over-torque can be a problem because as you torque the bolt it preloads it. Too much torque means too much preload (tension) in the bolt. This can cause the threads to strip in aluminum, or the heads to pop off smaller bolts.

Additionally, some things are designed to have a certain 'running-sliding' fit which could be affected buy the amount of preload. Most times the torque for a nut/bolt comes from a table and the designer just 'calls it out' on the drawing or manual. Regardless, the torque spec. is listed for a reason and something near it should be used.

[gforces944]

Thanks. I'll keep your email handy when I do this, probably within the next few months...also I wanted to get your guys' opinion on this:

Since I'm going to be taking apart the suspension, I want to research how much more difficult it would be to replace the stabilizer bars for the front AND the rear.
I was T-boned by a speeder a few years back. The damage wasn't bad, but it broke the control arm on that side and bent the stabilizer bar. I think the body shop had it re-bent back to spec, and while it feels ok, I can't help but think that it's not working as well as it should.
The reason that I'm thinking this is because I would like to seriously start contesting the local autoX crown with my 944 (I want a couple of trophies), so an upgrade to some good stabilizer bars and the next class makes sense. I would be compelled to replace the front stabilizer anyway given what's happened before.
Is it difficult to replace the stabilizer bars?

[kenny]

I've not doen them on the Porsche but generally it is not a bad job (compared to clutch etc!)