Lower Balance shaft cover removal?

[fiily]

So I have done the upper balance shaft front cover o-ring while going through the belts,wp, rollers, metal spacers/seals for the shaft, and rad. hoses.

I am trying to figure out how to remove the lower balance shaft front cover so I can replace the o-ring to install the new oil seal and metal flange/spacer. It looks like I have to remove the PS Pump and bearing case to get to the lower balance shaft o-ring?

So do I have to drain the p/s fluid and remove the pump to the job, or is there a simpler way?

Classic case of a $1.25 part taking 3 hours to install due to all of the other stuff you need to get to to r&r it.

Thanks

--phil

[thomasryan]

there is a bolt/fastener on the back side also

[jeffrsmith]

You will have to remove the PS Pump in addition to removing the rear timing cover (the rear timing cover hides some of the bolts you need to remove to get the balance shaft front cover off). I will let you figure out what all on the front of the engine has to come off to get the rear timing cover off.

Once you get the balance shaft front cover, you remove the balance shaft cover bolts - be very careful when removing the cover, you do not want the balance shaft to fall out and onto the ground. Clark's has a write up about the balance shaft housings that contains the tightening pattern and torque specs.

This is the case of quite a few more than 3 hours to replace that O-ring, this is the reason that there is more than a few cars out there with RTV globbed on the rear of the balance shaft housing.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by jeffrsmith

You will have to remove the PS Pump in addition to removing the rear timing cover (the rear timing cover hides some of the bolts you need to remove to get the balance shaft front cover off). I will let you figure out what all on the front of the engine has to come off to get the rear timing cover off.

Once you get the balance shaft front cover, you remove the balance shaft cover bolts - be very careful when removing the cover, you do not want the balance shaft to fall out and onto the ground. Clark's has a write up about the balance shaft housings that contains the tightening pattern and torque specs.

This is the case of quite a few more than 3 hours to replace that O-ring, this is the reason that there is more than a few cars out there with RTV globbed on the rear of the balance shaft housing.

I already have the timing belts, covers off. I am doing the wp,belts,rollers, front engine reseal. I don't want to remove the balance shaft covers, just the front cover of the balance shafts to access the 0-rings behind them.

The o-ring on the right balance shaft front cover is done.


The old race/flange from the top balance shaft was removed/replaced as it was absolutely gone. See the 1st pic below, PO deferred maintenance for too long, now it my job to clean up the mess.

[djnolan]

Originally Posted by fiily

I don't want to remove the balance shaft covers, just the front cover of the balance shafts to access the 0-rings behind them.

The o-ring on the right balance shaft front cover is done.

If I can remember correctly (check Clark's) you should replace the balance shaft races when you replace the o-rings or you will be doing it over soon.

Also to access the balance shaft flanges you need to remove the inner belt cover and to do this you must pull the crank pulley. I don't think you need to remove the ps pump but you may need to drop it down.

Again check Clark's, it is well described there...

[fiily]

Originally Posted by djnolan

If I can remember correctly (check Clark's) you should replace the balance shaft races when you replace the o-rings or you will be doing it over soon.

Also to access the balance shaft flanges you need to remove the inner belt cover and to do this you must pull the crank pulley. I don't think you need to remove the ps pump but you may need to drop it down.

Again check Clark's, it is well described there...

The 1st pic is the old balance shaft race/flange, pretty worn. The mylar seal, race, and oil seal have been installed on the top balance shaft, it's the bottom that seems to be the PITA to get to.

I would have to say, I'm taking my time and enjoying replacing the seals/belts/pump/rollers, also having a garage to work in is a blessing in itself.

Just need to convince the wife to allow me to spend time with the "mistress" again.

[djnolan]

Originally Posted by fiily

it's the bottom that seems to be the PIA to get to.

From the picture it looks like the idler pulley stud and tensioner roller studs may be part of the balance shaft flange. Been too long ago for me to remember.

[jeffrsmith]

There is at least one bolt that goes through the balance shaft housing to the front housing, take a look at the pic:

[djnolan]

Originally Posted by jeffrsmith

There is at least one bolt that goes through the balance shaft housing to the front housing, take a look at the pic:

It couldn't have been that complicated, I managed to do it!

[Techno Duck]

Getting the cover off with engine in the car is a PITA. The passenger engine mount support leg needs to be removed and with that the engine mount and the crossmember. This means supporting the engine from above or from the pan.

While the crossmember is dropped, 'while your in there' you can drop the oil pan and replace the gasket... and do the rod bearings .

[fiily]

Originally Posted by Techno Duck

Getting the cover off with engine in the car is a PITA. The passenger engine mount support leg needs to be removed and with that the engine mount and the crossmember. This means supporting the engine from above or from the pan.

While the crossmember is dropped, 'while your in there' you can drop the oil pan and replace the gasket... and do the rod bearings .

Hahah, too funny, I am not that ambitious!

I just want to pop off the front lower balance shaft housing as shown #19 in the porsche PET and replace #'s 21(o-ring), 5(mylar seal), 4 (race/flange), and 20(oil seal), all of which I have in hand.


I think Jeff and DJ have the right picture/idea I am talking about and I hope removing #19 is not major surgery.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by djnolan

It couldn't have been that complicated, I managed to do it!

So does that mean the p/s pump needs to come off or just loosen it and swing it up to get access to the bolt and remove the front housing?

[Rasta Monsta]

Pop it off, throw in a new seal, replace fluid and reservoir while you're in there. Good maintenance/cheap insurance.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

Pop it off, throw in a new seal, replace fluid and reservoir while you're in there. Good maintenance/cheap insurance.

Reservoir is only $15, I do have the updated ps hose that route's away from the headers, so at least I have that going for me. Now I just need to figure out how the p/s pump is attached and yank...really hard.

Oh the joy.


It seems the more I fix, the more I see in need of fixing, like the oil cooler is right there, might as well rip that out and have peace of mind, but those factory headers and studs scare me.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by djnolan

From the picture it looks like the idler pulley stud and tensioner roller studs may be part of the balance shaft flange. Been too long ago for me to remember.

Your memory serves you well, that is indeed what those studs are for.

[Techno Duck]

Whoops, i thought you were taking the entire cover (or housing) off.

The front cover is not too difficult as mentioned, especially at the level of disassembly your already at. Depending on your cars mileage, check the bearing shell that is pressed into the cover / power steering bracket, the front of the balance shaft rides on this. In my experience on these cars i have yet to see one that needed to be changed even at 130k miles.. but worth checking.

[djnolan]

If you are removing the pump then disassemble it and reseal it. Kit is about $25 as I recall. But I seem to remember doing the pump at an earlier stage of life and managed to do the balance shaft seal w/o having to do much to the pump.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by Techno Duck

Whoops, i thought you were taking the entire cover (or housing) off.

The front cover is not too difficult as mentioned, especially at the level of disassembly your already at. Depending on your cars mileage, check the bearing shell that is pressed into the cover / power steering bracket, the front of the balance shaft rides on this. In my experience on these cars i have yet to see one that needed to be changed even at 130k miles.. but worth checking.

Do you mean the race? I have a new mylar seal, race and oil seal ready to be installed.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by djnolan

If you are removing the pump then disassemble it and reseal it. Kit is about $25 as I recall. But I seem to remember doing the pump at an earlier stage of life and managed to do the balance shaft seal w/o having to do much to the pump.

WYIT applies too often, anything else while I'm there that anyone can think of? I don't want to worry about anything else in there for years to come.

The oil cooler is right there, but I don't have the OPRV tool, and I seriously don't want to take the headers apart to access the oil cooler.

[Rasta Monsta]

Pump mounts: remove the 6mm nut from the front and bolt from the rear, slide out the spacers, pump will tumble into your waiting hands.