Massive Front Engine Oil Leak

[onthesolidrock]

We need some advice . . .

Today we installed new timing and balance belts on a 1983 Porsche 944; it went very well . . . we thought!

After putting all together, we fired it up and it sounded great. We took it for a ride and noticed a slight whining sound, but nothing very loud. As we drove along we could smell oil burning off the exhaust.

So, we headed back and pulled in to take a look. Oil appears to be leaking profusely out of the front engine seal!

For the life of me I don't know what we did wrong. I am wondering if when we put the front lower engine pulley back on, if the woodruff key may have slipped and when we tightened the pullet, the crank shaft may have moved.

Any ideas???

Thanks

[M. Murphy]

Did you change the front main seal? If so is the seal oriented correctly, lip rearward? If it's leaking profusely at that seal likely it's installed backward or the seal is damaged. New oil pump sleeve/gear?

[onthesolidrock]

No, we did not change the seal

[John_AZ]

I am confused.

If you just changed the belts, why did you remove the front pulley?

If you did it for convenience, did you replace the green "O" ring in front of the oil pump drive gear? 999-707 283-40



J_AZ

[onthesolidrock]

We followed Clark's Garage procedure for the removal of the balance shaft belt and the timing belt; which required the removal of the crankshaft pulley. We did not replace any seals or "o" rings for this job.

[M. Murphy]

Unless it was leaking before somehow a seal was compromised. The noise was likely caused by oil getting on the belts and pulleys. Once it's all figured out that will be needing cleaning.

[John_AZ]

The belts can be replaced without removing the front crank pulleys. A little difficult to get the belt teeth into the crank pulley but it works. Clarks does say "IF removed".

Anyway, the green oil seal is probably deformed and that is why the oil is leaking.

This is provided you did not pull out the oil pump drive gear to inspect for a seal eating "worn groove"



Make sure you tighten the front crank bolt to 155 FOOT pounds.

J_AZ

[onthesolidrock]

Thanks guys . . . going back at it tomorrow . . . will let you know what we find.

[88Silver924S]

If the belts have any oil on them you may want to buy new ones as oil attacks the rubber. You wouldn't want any teeth to shear off down the road.

[onthesolidrock]

Thanks

[thomasryan]

There is a seal kit for the front of the motor if you want go that route.

[SloMo228]

Doing the front engine seals isn't a huge job if you already have everything off for a belt job. I did it recently and it only adds about 90 minutes or so to replace the seals on the crank and balance shafts. I had leaks from all three and grooves worn into the sleeves/spacers on each as well. Now, no leaks to potentially contaminate my belts.

[mytrplseven]

While you're in there is a good motto with these cars. If you have access to something that could potentially fail or leak down the road, fix it while you're in there.

[Bradical]

It is not possible for the woodruf key to slide back on the crank because it is not groved all the way back, so that theory is bust.

[onthesolidrock]

Thanks for all the help, we found the problem and we are both red in the face over it! Sheesh!

In our haste we allowed the timing belt to be pushed too far to the back on the bottom pulley. When the car fired up, the belt slid to the back of the pulley by by nearly a quarter inch, the result was that the timing belt cut a groove through the back plastic cover and compromised the seal.

We will be ordering seals and new belts and going after it again later this week!