|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 31
|
planning for new paint -- and some wetsanding. Need advice.
My 84 944 is India Red. Just got my wife's Del Sol out of the paint shop and it has some orangepeel to it. I can't spend $6K on a paintjob and wouldn't on a car with this value, but want it to look nice. I've been through the Paint & Body Forum, but wanted to ask you guys for advice. If I plan to wetsand, buff and polish for a smooth, glossy finish, what are your recommendations? Don't know if it's true, but I was told the 944s were not clearcoated originally. True? Should I not clearcoat, or clearcoat it then do my 2000-grit wetsanding, cutting compound and polish?
I had to do this recently with a chalky, 20-year old boat, using 1500 & 2000 grit, then Meguiar's Fiberglass Restoration Kit (Compound, Polish & Wax) and an orbital buffer with a wool bonnet. It turned out amazing. I would attempt the same using Meguiar's automotive products, but somewhere along the way, some yahoo PO already burned through the paint on the edges and ridges. Last edited by jefflamonica; 06-23-2015 at 01:49 PM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 4,062
|
as a general rule the 944s in "solid" colors (red/black/white/etc) were not clearcoated and are safe to sand.
the metallic finishes did have clear coats. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Are you talking about the recently painted (Honda) Del Sol with orange peel? If so, maybe send it back to the paint shop for color sanding.
Are you talking about prepping for paint? Your recent success with the boat proves you have a good process for making the paint look great. I'm in favor of a two stage paint system. When I have a shop paint a car, I ask for an extra coat or two of clear. You have an extra thick layer which is helpful when your color sanding and it has a deeper look when you're finished. Bruce
__________________
1989 944 N/A 1995 Ford F150 4X4 2016 Infiniti QX-70 2016 BMW 1200GS |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Toughkenamon Pa
Posts: 60
|
I've done paint and auto body for over 40 years. What we general do is sand the clear smooth after painting with 1500 grit wet paper then go over that with 2000 wet. Then buff and polish. Some shops use a fine stroke DA sander to level the clear using the same grades of paper. Some shops will follow up with 3000 grit before buffing.
Generally with two good wet coats of clear you can sand and buff it completely smooth. I wouldn't recommend putting more than 3 coats of clear. To much clear and you may develop a cracking problem within a year. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 4,062
|
flash, how would you go about buffing/polishing a cheaper metallic (Flake) paint job that, according to the shop, had the clear coat mixed into the paint?
paint was done in 2011, car sits outside uncovered most of the time in the sun, starting to dull a little in spots and has water spots in the paint from sprinkler spray. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Toughkenamon Pa
Posts: 60
|
I would use a mild compound What we usually use on fresh paint after sanding is 3M extra cut compound but on weathered paint I wouldn't use anything that strong. Something mild from Maguires would work
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered User
|
When I did mine I started at 1000 then 1500 2000 then 3000 used Maguire's ultimate compound then 3000 again on any area I wasn't happy with. Then the compound again followed by mothers micro polishing glaze. And that's how it sits now until.I buy a buffer to do the final once over before wax. Im happy with my results. My only advice is go slow. Take lots of time cause burning an edge is probably the worst feeling ever. Other advice would be pick a panel that would be easy to read shoot to try your technique on first. Line the sunroof or a bumper. That way you get an idea of what the finished product will look like before committing to the whole deal. Good luck!
|
||
|
|
|
|
less I know,more I learn
|
Great thread,great advice from everyone. I can share some tips that maybe helpful. Some paints and clears wet sand and buff out easy and some are not so easy. Sometimes there's orange peel in the base coat that can still be seen after buffing out the clear. I start with a 800-1000 on hard clears and finish with 2000-2500. I let my sand paper sit in a pale of water for 30 min to an hour. This helps soften up the edges of the paper. I use a dual density block with a water hose and a rag tied around the tip. A hose with running water works much better than a water bucket. If you're working with a fresh paint job,wet sand and polish one panel at a time. When I buff out a car I use a spray bottle with water and never let the surface get to dry. Dry buffing makes a lot of heat and risk of burning through. I'm very careful around sharp edges and body lines,I don't work those areas unless they need it. Cheers
__________________
Raymond |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 31
|
Thank you for all the great advice, guys. VOTS, I planning the paint project for my 944. Seeing the results of the Honda made me curious what could be accomplished with a mediocre paint job and some careful effort afterwards. After I deal with the current mechanical issues (no crank on strong battery and timing belt, balance belt, water pump job), I'll get into the cosmetic stuff -- seats and interior and paint. I'll make sure the painter shoots enough clear to allow for the finishing. The car may be old, but it's only got 56K miles on it. Just looking for a fun daily driver, but want it to look decent.
But I'll do the Del Sol first, as a test. Thanks, again, y'all!
Last edited by jefflamonica; 06-24-2015 at 07:54 AM.. |
||
|
|
|