A few questions...
 

My car runs great except for a few nuances....

1. The right turn signals flash quickly. In my older cars, I would notice this when either the front or rear bulb was out, but both are still good, so what do I look at for that? The drivers side flash at a more 'acceptable' rate (normal, or so it feels). Why?

2. The windows do not work. I noticed one day I could smell something burning and I determined it was coming from the window switch to my window (which used to work), so I unplugged them. Later as I tried two other switches to see if they were the problem, none. How can I test the windows to be sure the window motor is good? If I took a meter to the wire harness end for the motor (at the switch), what do I look for and what wires can I cross to getit to go up/down...to test?

3. I had to go under the hood to move the flap that would allow fresh air into the car. This morning it was so cold, and I needed to defrost the windshield, so I turned the lever to the left for heat....now it is always heat. What part is bad? What part do I need to order? I can use a screw driver and move the flap....but I want to fix it...once and for all...

Sorry for the many questions, but no one else can help me....

Thanks,

Poltergeist!

It's haunted!!!

Or...

The "heat" comes from a cable and sheath to a single valve between the engine and the fire wall. The plastic frame behind the dash sliders breaks and lets the sheath and cable move. The way it breaks lets you turn the heat on but not off. The plastic frame is a pain to replace and runs about $30. Sometimes the valve itself will not seat. The seals inside seem to wear out.

With a helper look at the arm on the valve and have them move the heat slider back and forth. If it stays in one location it's plastic frame time.

As to electric windows; if a switch jams in the up or down position there is no overload breaker to stop the motor from running just a fuse. In many cases were the window fuse has blown a few times a higher rating is substituted. This will let the wires heat up and act like a bathroom heater. Not good.

I would replace all the switches and take a hard look behind the fuse block (you have to pull it down to look).

The relay that controls the turn signals should not be dependent on a light load to determine it's cycling. One bulb or twenty the blink rate is determined by the circuit in the relay. Might have had a substitution made on the relay to a load dependent one. heaven knows it's possible. Or the circuit is shot -- this should have disabled the relay.

86 944n/a..It is my experience that a burned out bulb in the turn signal circuit will be indicated by mor rapid flash cycles...

Is it possible that one of those bulbs are 'going south' causing the flashing to be quicker? That doesn't sound too good, Hugh... :( I'm going to take them both out tonight, clean em and/or even replace them....and pray ;)

The lever for the heater......if I move it to turn the heat on, the flap will move...but anytime I move it to the cool side, nothing happens, so yes, that is what is happening...Guess I gotta find a frame.

I could smell the burning was coming from inside the door and one of the wires were a little melted at the switch.......time to mess with it.

Thanks alot.....hope 2-3 of the problems are minor....

Just took apart an 86 944 flasher relay and it's cycling is controlled by an eight pin integrated circuit.

You mean lever on the valve not "flap"???

You can take the facia off of the slider area and use a small flash light to check if the end of the cable sheath is still attached to the frame. You may get lucky and find just the clip has sprung off.

Sunday afternoon I will be putting in my Kenwood stereo in the 944 (yeah, I'm 'deaf', but I still know songs....especially the ones I grew up with in the 60's and 70's...), so I will be fooling with the levers at that time as well.

Thanks for the tips.....May even fool with the windows, but hard to find good working window switches.....unless pay full price for a new one.