Yet another AC condenser removal post
 

do any other parts need to come off before the AC condensor comes out?

Oops - Haynes has it - but that's probably early MY's ...

You'll need to remove the lower air guide between the bottom radiator plate and the air dam. Getting the refrigerant lines loose might be fun though... Coincidentally I removed mine last night. But I had already removed the bumper and air dam completely hoping to comb the fins out on it. I gave up and decided to remove it. Ended up breaking the lower connection loose from the element.. Time for a new one anyway. Mine has been beat to death over the past 30 years.. I've not used the A/C in it in over 20 years. It had leaked all the freon out about 18 years ago anyway.. Time for an R134 conversion.

BTW anything to protect the fins?

Its been a couple years since I dropped one. Don't recall if I used a lift or
simply drove up on ride up ramps. But I recall
removing the under carriage panel (item 2) under the front; several fasteners (items 4) underneath;
maybe 6mm with 10mm hex

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461848628.jpg

then spraying the 2 refrigerant hose fitting nuts (items 7 & 9) that connect to the
condenser (item 1) with Kroil solvent; let it soak for a day or two and use 2 wrenches
so you don't twist the manifold fittings on the condenser,
and there were 2 10mm hex head bolts (items 2), one on each side of the face
of the condenser, 2 rubber bushings (items 6) up top of condenser which hold it in the body, and dropping
condenser downward.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461848773.jpg

You shouldn't need to protect the fins as it should drop straight out the bottom once you get the hoses loose and two mounting bolts out. You may have to pull down on it to get the top mounting dowels to let go of the rubber grommets they are in. It's really that easy. But, like I said, getting the hoses loose will be the battle..

Kuehl, I think his is an N/A 944.

Sounds like the car can drive w/o the condenser - and easy to put back removed components I.e. Not the rad.

I love Kroil - amazing stuff.

I'll see about the apron thing.

Fin protection means in normal service, prevent stones/debris from beating in the condenser.

We don't get many calls for replacing front condensers due to debris coming through the front air slots and damaging the condenser. Most condensers get replaced because of issues taking off the 2 refrigerant hoses; twisting the manifolds (what you connect the hoses to) on the condenser.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461851017.jpg


Its normal to have 'bugs' plastered against the condenser's cooling fins.
Just don't "pressure" wash the fins, they are durable but not indestructible.

I'm seriously considering making a screen that fits over the condenser an inch or so in front of it to keep larger items from hitting it..

Air passes through the condenser and then the radiator behind it.
What ever you use insure you don't reduce air flow cause things can warm up

I'll be using some metal mesh screen. It'll be way less restrictive than the A/C Condenser. Open enough to let plenty of air through but catch those larger gravels and bugs from smacking and bending the fine fins on the thing..

Pretty sure I'm gonna need a new one.. LOL

http://s20.postimg.org/8zu5thy49/IMG_1460.jpg

Broke it getting the lower hose connection loose.. Oh well..

http://s20.postimg.org/6tzuyzunt/IMG_1461.jpg

http://s20.postimg.org/uwgotvbax/IMG_1462.jpg



I can BREATHE!!!

http://s20.postimg.org/q9ams3ny1/IMG_1463.jpg

You must have some really big mosquitoes down your way.

Nahh.. Those are Mayflies.. LOL

i see - well - It looks like the valance (? with the fog lights and such) needs to come off. FWIW the apron on mine is for automatics, I think. Doesn't look like any I found in the PET but the number is there, and some used parts come up like it. I guess it's not a good idea to drive around with the valance off... at high speed ....

I think you can get it off without removing the valance. I just had it off because I was trying make more room to attempt to comb out the fins. Didn't work like I had intended so I decided to just remove it entirely hoping to comb out the fins and clean it up off the car. Then I broke the damned thing loosening the lower hose connection... The air guide on the bottom between the valance and lower radiator mounts (you can see it in the last picture laying on the ground in front of the car) should allow enough room to remove it straight down. Might jack the car up about 6 or 8" on the front if you don't remove the valance.

The valance had to be just loosened - did not have to remove/disconnect lights.

There were two asymmetric (?) metal plates fastened to the air guide (? Apron?). Details are yucky - I think this was a non-Porsche body shop job. Anyway, it loosened enough to expose the condenser!

the condenser is out. Thank you thread contributors for the ... "encouragement" ... here's my detail-light off-the-top-of-my-head-don't-quote-me quick informational to help anyone who dives into this.

1. Pelican Parts does not have - or I did not find - a condenser for my 1987 NA. I saw the one for other MY's. Sorry if I am wrong here.

2. for best results : make sure to have two (2) 22 mm flare nut wrenches or crows foot, one 17 mm flare nut and one 19 mm flare nut. these wrenches fit on the hose fittings and the compressor. Please check these mm as I am reporting off the top of my head. Ideally, these would be really long wrenches. I recommend single-piece wrenches, not crows foot, but you deal with what you have. I was required to apply breaker bar torque using an SK 24 mm stubby wrench (the one for the oil pressure sender - score for double-duty!). Harbor Freight I discovered has a set of flare nut wrenches that fit the bill.

3. I chose the Kroil approach. Apply generously and often. You could use a torch I suppose, I did not, but you'd have to be careful. Public Service Announcement : Kroil and flame are a no-no.

4. The front end on my car looks standard, but has things done to it. Thus, details like how many bolts/nuts/washers and where they are and what they look like will be skipped. It was not pretty but it worked.

5. my condenser was apparently original.

6. Obtain healthy quantities of patience. Proceeding by sub-millimeter steps worked. It felt like it was bending, but didn't. the hose nut parts were slightly dinged.

7. The air guide (see above - plastic thingy) needs to get moved way out. might be able to just detach half of it.

8. jackstands are a must.

9. the valance (the nice painted fiberglass body piece) needs to wiggle a lot, right where the metal tabs go around the condensor pipes - you'll know what I mean. When the condenser goes back in, I might detach the valance a whole lot more. this means the fender liner needs to partially be detached.

10. pry bars - a must-have.

11. I would recommend a 1/2-inch piece of plywood to slide between the radiator and the condenser for when it pops out. It easily goes at an angle, threatening to gouge your nice new radiator that you purchased from Pelican Parts (<- product placement!).

12. after the two bolts and two hoses are disconnected AND OUT OF THE WAY push the condensor from the top - it sort of pops out. I used pry bars.

'til next time...

Alright, it seems I can be a social clod - does Griffiths have condensers for late 944's, in particular a 1987? Better to know late than never.

Yes

seems my ignorance was due to relying on mobile (smartphone) web browsing - went over to a desktop, and now I can see (1) kuehl's signature and avatar, and (2) a very nice writeup - including instructions, and some helpful tips - on the Griffiths website, which was all sensible on mobile, but somehow, the layout wasn't clear, so I never saw the 924-944-951-968 section. all makes sense now.

... BTW the missing signature on mobile isn't a new thing on Pelican's forum. oh well. avatars I can do without. hope that all helps.