Problem with power steering rack removal

S-G-Covin · 04-20-2008, 03:34 PM

Right behind the drive shaft where it connects to the steering gear is a bolt. It’s the last thing I need to disconnect to get my power steering rack disconnected from the car so I can rebuild it, but I can’t get a good look at the head. I thought it was a hex head alan wrench (7mm) but that doesn’t seem to fit. 7/32 felt close, but its too small and stripped out when I applied torque. I’ve tried a starbit and that doesn’t feel right either.

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/pdf/en/catalogues/E_944_88_KATALOG.pdf

The parts catalog calls it a banjo bolt. Its #36 in the diagram; part # 999 134 018 02 (pg 178 &179 for reference).

Has anyone removed a power steering rack from a 944 or 924S recently? Do you remember how you got this little sucker off?

Thanks in advance.

TNT25169 · 04-20-2008, 03:41 PM

Vice grips around the outside edge and a slight tap does the job if you have the room. It's really easy to strip out the inside of the bolt with an allen key. I would replace the bolt with one from www.rennbay.com when you put it all back together. Just my 2 cents.

S-G-Covin · 04-20-2008, 04:21 PM

Well; ya get an answer that quick it usually says one thing: common problem.

Thanks for the quick reply TNT25169. The 944 is a little roomier under the hood (and everywhere else) than the 924S. That makes it a pain for maintenance and this is no exception. I barely have room for the alan key and my hand down there; no room to swing a hammer, and not sure I can get vice grips down there and fitted anyway. I have to start dinner now, so it will wait till tomorrow

So...short of removing the engine, does anyone else have ideas? Much appreciated.

Brando · Brando's Garage

if it's a banjo bolt it should be a 17 or 19... Dunno why it would be an inset allen... Doesn't sound right.

ryan951s · 04-20-2008, 09:23 PM

I just did mine, and mine was in the same shape. I ended up unbolting the steering rack from the crossmember, which lets you move it forward and down (since the power steering lines have some play). Once you are able to move the entire steering rack to get better access, a good ol' pair of vicegrips will get the job done.

Don't forget to get new bronze washers when reassembling everything or it WILL leak. Don't ask me how I know... :-(

hpservertech · 04-20-2008, 09:40 PM

Yea, take it off the cross member and it will be easier.

also I wouldn't rebuild it yourself. Get one already rebuilt from Autozone/parts america. $180 with a lifetime warranty.

S-G-Covin · 11:43 AM

The Rennbay advertisment for this part says that the OEM are allen head banjo bolts. Their replacments are hex head (sry for any confusion). I have OEM banjo bolts with allen heads, which I managed to get a good look at today. But it appears I've stripped them out trying to get them out. I'll have to use vice grips to get them loose...fiddle with that tonight I suppose.

I think that if I pull the brakes MS again, I can get room to swing a hammer from the top. I've looked into pulling it from the crossmember; both jobs--frankly--look equally difficult. Its just...they really crammed this engine into the 924 frame. There's very little wiggle room as opposed to the 944s I've had the opportunity to see. You guys got it so lucky

But this is my baby and the one I wanted. I just need to suck it up

I realise the appeal of rebuilds to many folks, hpservertech, but I like to get under the hood when I can. Other than not being able to hold fluid very well, this OEM part is working very well and I'm loathe to replace it with something--even if it has a warranty--that I have no expierience with. Resealing the rack shouldn't prove a momentous task (at least I'm not going to spend half my off-hours upsidedown in the driverseat like when I pulled the brake booster...great expierience but ugh!).

Thanks very much for all your help and replies. I'll update you when I get it all the way off.

S-G-Covin · 04-22-2008, 05:10 PM

Update:

Gawd this thing is on tight. I went ahead and pulled it off the crossmember enough to get it free floating off the rubber tube that connects through this banjo bolt (got it sitting on a 6x6 for the night; theres not enough light to work now). We've tried using vice grips and a pullbar, tapping with a hammer, and penetrating oil to see if we could break it loose. Its on tight. Airhammer at the factory tight.

Forecast doesn't call for rain tomorrow and we've got light until *pm here now, so I'll have a few more hours to fiddle (or fight, your preference) with it then. Any other suggestions appreciated.

One thing I'm considering: this is a serious last resort, but if anyone knows where to replace the rubber tube-and how much of a hassle that will be--I'm starting to thing\k that cutting it loose may be my only option.

Thanks again

hpservertech · 04-22-2008, 05:33 PM

Can you put up a picture of the part your talking about?

S-G-Covin · 04-23-2008, 10:08 PM

Update: What will go down as the battle of the banjo bolt has been concluded. 2 monkeys and a pair of vice grips once again prove victorious over the perils of German engineering.

Plain English: I got the sucker off tonight. Now I gotta start tearing it down. Thanks for the suggestions and feedback. As always, you guys are tops.