Ok, seriously,... forgive my other little post, but I had too:) Starter is bad,...
 

I told you guyz in one of my last posts that the starter started making this grinding noise and some answered that the engine might be seized. Well, I went to jump start the car becasue pushing it into my driveway is going to require alot of man power and I doubt my beloved backstabbing neighbors would help me:) Anyways, the starter was smoking and I tried to crank her over. I could see the RPMs rising on the gauge and the oil pressure was rising. I really could tell whether she was turing over or not. I eam the starter was barely moving at all. you think its a bad starter or shes burning becasue the engine really is seized? If seized, HOW? By what? I thought a starter could BASH valves easily? I am in a couple of days going to push her into the driveway and tear her apart again and see what I find. I don't think she is seized. I think the starter is shot and thats why I have been having problems starting the car for the longest time. The ****ty battery made it even worse.

Remove your spark plugs (WARNING- THIS MAY BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR KNUCKLES (ha ha)).

Take a big ol' wrench and slowly turn your crankshaft pully and crankshaft.

Listen carefully to each cylinder, or even try to shine a light into the cylinder as you do so (this will take two people to accomplish)

If you feel the engine resist turning, try going in the opposite direction - this may help you to identify a stuck valve. Again, do not force the engine to turn, just use enough energy to turn the engine.

Oh yeah - make sure it's out of gear - chock the wheels.

Hey Overkill - when you originally assembled the engine, it was running fine, wasn't it? I remember that you mentioned that it was running well, so your timing must have been pretty good at that time - I would remove the timing belt covers and check your pully marks before yanking the heads, just to check. If I remember, you were concerned about oil consumption prior to this new problem.

Keep us advised.

Not if you own an "S":D



Eventually I am going to do a full inspection of the car. There was a little bit of oil in each cylinder and Cyl.#3 had the oil on its plug. I will check the timing marks before I remove the head just in case. I also want to messure my lift again to see if that changed at all. When I first got the car running beofer she was running great, **** she was running great the day that all this stuff was found. My friend didnt want to believe that the timing could be off, "because the engine wouldnt run this well." We'll see what a happens. What would cause a valve to stick? The machinist wouldnt have anything to do with it? My guess, is that the intake guides are worn down and the popping noise is one of the valves for cylinder 3 and that why the oil is on the plug for that cylinder. Worn intake guides are the reason for the bit of oil in each cylinder. Lets see if im right. Should of just reaplaced all the damn guides, stupid.

Ok.... deep breath.....
 

Starter smoking is a bad thing.

You are down to two alternatives.

1. Starter bad
and/or
2. Severe engine problems

do the following:

remove starter

Test starter by jumping it directly from the battery (jumper cables work well here)

Verify proper starter function.

If the starter is functioning properly:

Severe engine damage: Troubleshoot further

If starter is Not functioning properly:

Bad Starter
OR
Severe engine damage has damaged starter

Replace starter and trouobleshoot further.

I've been looking over your last few posts concerning this issue and I must confess a degree of confusion. Indulge me to summarize here:

1. Head repaired, no valve damage evident, replace head, seals etc

2. Cams timed - Timing may or may not be correct, but we CAN safely say that the camshafts/valves/pistons were in reasonable correct alignment

3. Clicking from valvetrain, seemed to diminish over time, otherwise car running well

4. Car posted for sale

5. Oil consumption abnormally high, basic troubleshooting indicates abnormally high compression in cylinder #3 as well as evidence of oil on sparkplug

6. Car suddenly does not start, car is generating oil pressure while being cranked, starter smoking.

Ok, a little brief, but I think I hit the high points.

SOMETHING changed between event #3 and event #5 and 6. Engines do not just "break" without giving some sort of warning. Think back - were there any indications - strange noises, odd performance, anything?

AFJuvat

Dude, you missed,... after I did the compression check and was driving home the car started bucking violently in 5th gear. I let the clutch go in 3rd gear at idle and she stalled after 2 jolts forward.


Umm, the only weird noises I heard was the 3 popping noises during the compression check. I am VERY paranoid about this car and I usually notice every little thing. I drive my friend nuts:) No strange noises. the clicking was and is my injectors. they still click atleast did. The clicking would fade into the noise of the engine when I pressed on the gas. It did not get louder. I seriously think its my starter. Remember awhile back way before all this where I had posted about the starter seizing once in a awhile? That is when my battery was new. We thought it was because of the cold. I can't wait to open her up. I a couple of days she going down:)

Hmmmm? I doubt a starter going bad would make your car buck wildly in 5th gear? hate to say it, but the hints you give sound like a bad situation to me...Good luck & keep us posted...

The fact that the starter "smoked" may indicate that it is already "toast". (excuse my puns) The smoking is usually the insulation on the wires burning.

Is there any possibility that the cam gear was not properly bolted on? Could the key have fallen out and allowed the cam gear to rotate on the cam? The reason I ask this, is on my 944, the bolt was indeed loose, and while the key never fell out, it did allow the cam gear to wobble, eventually widening the slot in the cam gear. I had to replace the cam gear and key, but the slot in the cam itself was still ok. I discovered this when changing belts the last time. I would guess that I had at least several degrees of play between the cam gear and cam shaft. It still ran, but ran much better after being repaired. (I'm trying to think of possible low-buck fixes.)

Dude, I am not saying that the starter was the cause for the bucking. The bucking started out as a slip like feeling. My friend thinks it might be electrical. I dont know about that. I am going to take care of one thing at a time. I have the car in the driveway,... thats a start and a days work. Im going to bed:D Goodnight and talk to you guyz soon.

Oh, and wish me luck on my BLS coarse. Im gonna ACE that ****:D

BLS: Basic Life Support?

Good luck - you should be in good shape as long as you don't have to set the timing on the manequin... :D

Sorry Couldn't resist....

AFJuvat

HA HA HA,... dude, not cool:D Dude, I set the timing right:) ROFL!!!!!!!!!!

LOL, sorry.

Overkill, I'm no where near being a mechanic but my two cents...
If I understand correctly the car was running okay then after driving some it started bucking?
Sounds like something came loose, have you checked the distibutor/electrical?

Best of luck on finding the prob.

I bet you that your cables are loose on your starter from after your head repair. This would cause the stall and the motor not to start or crank over vice versus. $100 play dollars says that's your problem.

You just didn't get them tight enough, I think you can relax now.

Oil pressure and rpm's showing probably means the engine is turning over. Check the starter dont worry about things that could be wrong, worry about the starter first.

I never loosened the cables for the starter:( I just unbolted it and I kinda tied it to the exhaust when I locked the flywheel.

Well, what's the update? Have you checked the starter wires yet? I still think they loosened up. If you rotated the starter out of the way and had tension on the wires, they may have loosened up.

Starter...
 

Try out the starter first. What if the bucking problem you had was the starter engaging (or staying engaged but turned off), and then locking up because a bearing is screwed? Then, you try to start it this run around and the stopped up bearing caused everything to overamp and melt some.

Hmm, could be. I havent got under the car yet. I have the course I have to take for the work. I will start working on the car on the 24th. I'll let you know then. Yo, if I remove it and jump it off my mothers truck that thing isnt gong to like torque right the hell out of my is it? What to expect just in case it is working properly?