It sounds like the problem I have just worked out. After parking the car and not starting it for 12 months, it refused to start. So I went through everything including new fuel and still no start. I was getting power, spark, fuel pressure was good I even used a Noid light to check power to the injectors. Here is what I found my injectors had stuck all of them.
So I made up a power source (9v battery and alligator clips) removed the injectors and cleaned them, by using the jumper power to open them up and spray carby cleaner through them and replaced them. Guess what happened next it starts 1st kick. not saying that is your trouble but for $6 and 30 minutes it maybe worth a shot.

I need to make me an injector cleaner station like that. I have a set of 928 injectors I need to clean out.

Replacing the DME relay did nothing, so I'm back to where I started.

Pull the fuel rail and do a flow test on the injectors. Get some cups/bottles and make sure all are spraying correctly and meeting your volume requirements.

Check your AFM and make sure that the voltages and resistances match spec.

Look at all of your plugs and determine if they are tan (good) or black (rich) or dry (lean).

Do a bunch of basic diagnostics before you throw more parts/$ at the problem.

That's too bad about the DME - it won't go to waste in a real sense.

Looking forward to more progress - this is just getting good.

DME relay in,key in "on" position, no 12V to injectors. 3-wire jumper in (but key left in off position), fuel pump kicks in and voltage to one side of injector connector, none to the other ..as it should be, but it still only starts when I floor the footfeed. I did have a bad starter and apparently a bad ignition switch, as I got no change of resistance when turning to the on position. I do get 12v to the DME terminals when key is on.I'm still missing something but as they say, sometimes you cant see the forest for all the trees

Any idea what this loose connector might be? I am not seeing a mating conn under the dashhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504360736.jpg

Nevemind..The white connector goes to an "altitude compensator". I'm betting the black connector is for an alarm system or such which I don't have. Testing the connector to the ECU per Clarks

Voltage from #50 on ignition switch to pin 4 on ECU connector when cranking. per Clarks. However, for some reason, mein headlights have decided to come on without using the switch and stay on in both up and down positions. I did pull the buzzer after it got aggravating to listen to after a bit

Well, now I am getting 12v to BOTH sides of the injector connector ratherr than one side

It starts and runs smoothly now. The exhaust is clear for the first few minutes, but the more it revs, the more smoke (more of a mist, really)
appears and it does have a bit of a fuel smell, but not strong. If I hold my hand to the exhaust, it appears as grayish deposits in the vapor droplets. I did rebuild the injectors and the caps in the kit appeared somewhat larger than the original, in length anyway, but not much. They did snap onto the injectors tips. My next step is to pull the fuel rail and get some bottles, then watch how they spray..or dribble, perhaps. Maybe they leak

Injectors stream fine, no leaks from the housings. Would a bad 02 sensor cause it to run rich even though the engine is at operating temperature, or might it be the DME temp sensor? Or both? Thought I'd work on it today, so I don't mull over OU's S******g the bed yesterday:mad: