this is an often debated subject.....

I do not torque the hub/spindle nut, but you should tighten the nut enough to seat the bearings. unfortunately, there are no or very little information about how much to tighten the nut. suffice to say, you should tighten the nut enough to prevent the wheel/hub from turning freely, then back off until it turns freely, then go slightly tighter and lock it down.

I know that sounds very vague at best, but it's more of a feel than an actual torque number.

if we were talking about hub bearings for big trucks, I could give you torque numbers. in which case it is similar, but you torque the bearing nut to 250ft lbs, then back it off, then retighten to snug. the torque spec is to seat the bearings, not to judge who tight the bearing nut is.

pretty stupid in today's era of numbers for everything, but there it is......







--Russ

I think I might complain to that alignment shop. Wheel bearings are the first thing you're supposed to check when doing alignments. If it was that sloppy then the toe and camber are sure to be off. The only excuse I can see for not checking the wheel bearings is that it is a 928 and they were afraid to lift it before doing the alignment. It would be easy to forget under those circumstances. But if a car came back twice after an alignment you'd think they'd be a little more thorough about investigating.

Repacked bearings...300 miles later the POP IS BACK!

At start off from dead stop and now it pops once when braking to a stop.

Clould this be the brake caliper shifting?????

if the caliper is loose, then yes. Or, the brake caliper is causing something else in the suspension system to show a worn part giving slack....resulting in a POP when you apply the brakes. it could be anything from a bad ball joint to bad upper/lower control arm bushings to tie rod ends or rack bushings or slack in the rack itself.

Due to the rack being behind the spindle, you can probably rule out bad tie rod ends or the rack itself. I would lean more towards upper a-arm bushings or ball joints......?

Again, check everything related to this wheel end. put the car on jackstands, then manipulate the wheel side to side and up/down. you should have no movement in any suspension pieces other than normal suspension travel.

diagnosing this over the internet is sometimes very, very difficult.

a similar thing is going on with my daughters Tahoe. sounds like a wheel bearing going bad, but I can't give her the correct diagnosis 1200 miles away over the phone. this is one of those things that you must be able to put your hands on to get it right...... :rolleyes:

check everything and let us know what you find.......






--Russ

Sounds like a drive line part.

it (the pop) wouldn't be coming from the left front.....





--Russ