Got a problem with my 928S 1984

[orlisk]

Recently got a 1984 Porsche 928S Automatic

Most of the relays were corroded and have to be replaced.

It is missing the fuel pump / fuel injector relay.

I found the starter relay, looks like it was in good shape, I plugged in it, turned the key and I can hear the starter relay and starter just clicking. Could it be the starter relay or the starter going bad or is it because the fuel pump and or fuel injector relays missing?
Also the electric seats are not moving when the car is turned on enough for the electric to be used, and passenger window does not move but the driver side does.

[Danglerb]

Corroded relays will have matching corroded sockets, you can replace the relays, but sockets also need cleaning, and relays might be fine after cleaning.

Why speculate on what might happen without those relays, they require replacing if you don't have them.

Make sure your battery has a full charge.

Electrical is painfully slow one thing at a time, best to go end to end and clean all the ground points and all the other connections.

Sounds like you have bad/dirty/worn/corroded switches, best to replace them, but some take a swing at cleaning.

If cleaning gets boring, use a meter and measure the voltage at troublesome points, its should be very close to the full battery voltage, back to cleaning to make it so.

*******************
Here is Wally Plumley's annual service.

Annual maintenance:
1) Open the hatch and remove the tool panel. Remove the carpet and spare
tire cover. Remove the spare, tools, etc. Open the battery box.

2) Disconnect the ground cable from the chassis. Remove the negative
battery terminal. Remove the positive battery terminal. Remove the battery.
Use extreme caution to avoid getting battery acid or residue from the top
of the battery or cables in your eyes. Goggles are recommended. If the
battery brushes against your clothes, you can end up with holes.

3) Clean the battery terminals until they are bright and shiny. Dull gray
won't do. If it is possible to check the fluid level in the battery, do so.
Fill to the rings. Wash the battery. Put it on a charger if possible.

4) Clean the battery box, removing all corrosion. Wash the battery box.
After it dries, touch up the finish as required.

5) Clean the battery cable terminals (all three) until the connection area
is clean and shiny. Dull gray won't do. Clean the connection area on the
chassis.

6) Clean the speedometer/odometer drive electrical connector in the right
forward corner of the spare tire well (pre-'90 models).

7) Raise the hood (bonnet). Remove the protective cap from the jump start
terminal and pull the protective plastic cover from the terminal. If you
are missing the cover or the cap, replace them - they are critical items.
If there is no cover, water will enter the connector and corrode the
connectors and wires, causing serious electrical problems.

8) If the connections are clean and tight, replace the cover and cap. If
the connections show any corrosion or looseness, disassemble, clean and
reassemble.

9) Jack the right front of the car so that you can SAFELY work underneath.

10) Remove the ground cable that runs from the right side of the engine to
the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable, and check for corrosion in the
cable. Clean the connection points, and replace the cable.

11) Check the heavy cable connection on the starter solenoid for looseness
or corrosion.

12) Check the moderately heavy wires on the same connection for corrosion
and breaks inside the insulation. These carry the charging current from the
alternator.

13) Check the small yellow wire connection for corrosion and tightness.
This wire triggers the starter solenoid.

14) Lower the car. Fold back the carpet and open the central power panel
cover.

15) Check the main power connections at the top of the panel for tightness
and corrosion.

16) Check the ground connections above the panel for tightness and corrosion.

17) If you are having electrical problems, remove each fuse and reinsert
three times. Check the fuses for the proper value, and examine them
visually for damage or corrosion. Test them if desired. Later cars have a
fuse tester built into one of the relays.

18) If you feel that it is necessary, remove and reinsert each relay. This
won't be easy, as they fit very tightly in some cases. Porsche sells a
relay removal tool, but I am not impressed. It is basically a pair of
pliers with square jaws, and will pull the relay apart. One tool that works
well is a spark plug boot removal tool. It is a thin but strong sheet metal
tool shaped like a "J" with the top 1/8" bent over at a right angle. You
can put this angle under the bottom edge of the relay and lift it out - IF
the battery is disconnected!

[orlisk]

Well I've made some progress.. I got a new Fuel pump relay, but the starter still clicks turning the key but I can hear the fuel running through the car.. I'll just keep working on testing the problems so far, thanks Dangler

[Danglerb]

Proceed with caution, creative wiring by a previous owner could overload circuits and start a loom fire (wire insulation melts, circuits start shorting out all over, repairs can be involved).

[BLK87S4]

I had an issue like this where my fuel system relay was going bonkers. Pulled it and it was corroded. You just can clean the sockets very easy in the car. Pulled the fuse and relay panel out of the car and cleaned each individual socket. Also sprayed it with corrosion cleaner and then applied electrical lubricant and mositure barrier. No more crazy relays!

[Mrmerlin]

if you have the corroded relays then you should look above the CE panel for water tell tales .
These might be dripping onto your board, rusty fasteners or crusty tracks leading down the CE supports indicate a leaking blower box seal