Ignition Switch Assembly Urgent Help!
 

Okay, so my 1982 928S has been down for quite some time now. I ended up taking the Pod off and disconnected the Starter Switch and the damn Wires fell from the 14-pin connector, and now I do not know which slots they rest in.

I have these wires:

1 Yellow Wire
2 Black Wires
2Black/Yellow Wires
1 Gray Wire
2 Red Wires
1 Red/Black Wire

Someone from another board was able to provide me with a diagram of the placements, but the colors of the wires were incorrect.

I really need to get this all back together. She has been sitting for far too long, and before I finish the interior, I need to make sure she runs!


http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/928-forum/544052-ignition-switch-not-turning.html

That is the previous board thread in which I was posting. I couldn't find any way for the 928 to start up, so this is why I went as far as disconnecting the starter switch from the 14-pin connector.

Here is the page with links to manuals and current flow diagrams, the '82 is there.
Manuals
clean the wires real good to get the proper wire color

on my '79 top 14pin :
T1=Alt D+ Blu (may look black)
T2=oil pres blu/blk
T3=Cool Temp blu/yel
T4=oil pres blu/whi
T5 cool temp blu/grn
T6=oil lev grn/blu
T7= 2 wires: sup air valve & WUR; both red/whi
T8=empty
T9=AC blk
T10=starter (16) blk/yel
T11= empty
T12=empty
T13=empty
T14=2 wires: Starter(50) large gauge, ign. switch; both yel

Hope this helps,
Jon

Sorry, my previous post was for the engine compartment 14pin.

The diagrams will be helpful for you.

Okay, I am still a little confused, and I believe I am only making myself more confused by looking at this diagram.

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/8396/file0252.jpg

This is the mess I have. However with this diagram, unless I am looking at it wrong, the wire colors are different...

helpful? 3-31-2010 post morriss 14 pin connector thread, after two sets pics the link to flow diagram can be clicked on too.

Jak..,
I am working through this for you, but will most likely need you to do a little investigation...at the CEP...

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?? I will need you to verify continuity between a couple of points, the CEP and the wire endpoints.

I have examined various wire and current flow diagrams (including '82) and the main diff is two blk/red on diagram and you indicate (and I see) two blk/yel. Larger gage (same gage as larger Yel and Red) Blk/red terminate at CEP plug/pin A/3 (first plug on left 3rd pin). The smaller gage Blk/red terminates at the light switch 15 pin. What do you have as the endpoints for these two Blk/yel wires?? DO they match what I have stated from the diagrams

I am operating on a hunch that Blk/red = Blk/yel; are the two wires in question different gages? This appears to be the first to resolve before next steps???
Jon

Does the white plug (now empty) have any numbers and letters on it?? Look very close where the pin sockets slide in and the outer edge.

I believe they are as described. It's a little difficult to pinpoint necessarily where they lead to.

OK, lets try this...Please be careful, briefly test the switch before installing it...

I looked on the back of my switch (used one on the bench) and the Pins are labeled. There is a bigger gap between pins in one location as you go around the switch; the pins are in a circle. The empty plug must have a similar pin configuration; circular with one space between the 10 pins being bigger. This with the wires plugs into the switch; of course.

Therefore, if you hold the plug with the switch side facing you and can observe this larger gap you can follow the below Pin label reference and plug the leads in from the backside of the plug:
Counter clockwise from larger gap between female pin sockets on switch plug/connector (the switch is in the clockwise direction so the plug is counter/mirror):
• Yellow, switch Pin 50 – Starter
• 2 Blacks, adjacent adjacent Pin 15 – Switched Hot (15 Bus)
• Red/blk switch Pin R -- radio lead
• 2 Red, adjacent on Pin 30 – Hot (30 bus always 12v)
• 2 Blk/red = 2 Blk/yel, adjacent on Pin X – Aux power
• Empty Pin 30 so one of the reds could go here?? The pin appears clean on my used switch so I would use not use it yet
• Gray, on switch Pin P – parking

Okay I am going to go ahead and give this a try here in a minute.


When you say to briefly test the switch before installing it, are you referring to testing the switch out with a screwdriver, and turning it? What should I be careful about, precisely?

Edit: Okay I gave it a try and it seems to all check out, and I can hear the fuel pump turning on, as before. However, she is still not turning over. I think after all this trial and error, I believe this piece:

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/7046/file0253.jpg

Is what's causing it to not run? Unfortunately the little plastic piece broke and the little spring could no longer fit, so I would need to acqure a new set somewhere.

Can you jump that plug in the meantime to see if it will run?

How would I go about jumping it?

get a short piece of wire (maybe a couple inches), strip some insulation off both ends, and stick one end of the wire in each of the holes on that plug in the picture to "jump" the plug. But before you actually do that, let me check the wiring diagrams to make sure you won't fry anthing.

EDIT: how many wires go to that small plug and what colors are they?

1 Red with Black pinstripe

1 Black with Red pinstripe

1 Red with Light Blue pinstripe

Ok, I looked at the connector in question on my car; it has the same three wires and colors as yours. Pulled off the connector; one terminal has battery voltage, the other has none (ground). Put my meter on the terminals extending from the steering column and found that the little switch gets activated when the key is in position 2, but not in position 1, not sure about starter position.

I'm not sure what that switch is actually for, but you should be able to jump that connector no problem. I would test this on my car but half the engine is apart and I can't test whether or not that connector being unplugged will cause a no-start.

OR - better yet, can you plug in the connector and tape it in place, then bolt the ignition switch in place and just use the key?

I will attempt to jump it, and reply with the results.

When you say to stick one end of the wire into each of the holes, do you mean with two different wires, or what exactly? :P

You are basically wiring one terminal of the connector to the other, so you only need one wire to connect them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278301197.jpg

So sparks are normal?

Hmm, not sure about that. I have had other circuits on my car throw sparks when energized, but I'm not sure if that one should. Perhaps there is a resistor in the steering column, I will look at mine again. If someone knows what that connector is wired to, please let us know!

No, sparks are not normal. You best plug it in to test

I do not know what this piece is exactly though. The piece that broke was a little tan plastic part that inserted into the steering column, and then the black piece fit into that- then a spring inside of the tan plastic piece would activate or something...

Do you guys know what I am referring to?