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-   -   Warm under window switches (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=546419)

harborman 06-05-2010 04:55 PM

Warm under window switches
 
I have noticed it can feel pretty warm if I place my hand on the widow and sun roof switch area of the shifter console, especially if I have been on the road for sometime. Has anyone else noticed this?

Opelotus 06-05-2010 05:04 PM

I do recall noticing a bit of heat when I pulled up my shift boot, but other than that, I don't remember the switches ever getting warm. IIRC the catalytic converter is almost directly beneath that area, but there should be a large foam insulation piece and a heat shield between it and the tunnel. Could you be missing either one of these?

Maleficio 06-05-2010 07:14 PM

Mine does the exact same thing. I've heard the big foam block under the console, over the TT, can degrade, split apart, and allow heat into the cabin through the shifter port.

Maleficio 06-05-2010 07:20 PM

In fact, I think this excessive heat is what shortens the life span of the console switches.

Mrmerlin 06-05-2010 10:41 PM

extra heat is usually a sign of motor mount failre, the mount let the engine TT fall down this pulls the foam dow as well and creates a way for hot air to enter the shifter area if you keep the windows up less hot air will be drawn through the shifter

harborman 06-06-2010 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin (Post 5389838)
extra heat is usually a sign of motor mount failre, the mount let the engine TT fall down this pulls the foam dow as well and creates a way for hot air to enter the shifter area if you keep the windows up less hot air will be drawn through the shifter

I guess I will have to look under the car and check this out. Thanks all!

firefighter7128 06-06-2010 05:44 AM

I actually have a breeze that comes from this area. very hot too. post your fix-it if you find one.

harborman 06-06-2010 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firefighter7128 (Post 5389959)
I actually have a breeze that comes from this area. very hot too. post your fix-it if you find one.

All I can see so far is the heat shield above the cat converter and it seems fine. I may have to try and look above it. The car had been in storage for 19 years and maybe some animal packed something in there, otherwise the underside looks really clean and new.

Opelotus 06-06-2010 12:46 PM

I think the foam insulation piece is best viewed with the heat shield removed.
You may be able to drop the heat shield without removing the catalytic converter.

harborman 06-07-2010 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Opelotus (Post 5390425)
I think the foam insulation piece is best viewed with the heat shield removed.
You may be able to drop the heat shield without removing the catalytic converter.

It looks like the heat shield has some kind of insulation on top of it and is part of it. I was under the car yesterday doing an oil change but did not see anything that looked out of place. Car just turned 41,400 miles. I put Rotilla 15 w 40 in it this time, now on sale at Advanced Auto for $10/gal.

BReyes 06-10-2010 07:20 PM

Did you see your motor mounts settle?

Regards,

harborman 06-11-2010 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BReyes (Post 5398591)
Did you see your motor mounts settle?

Regards,

The Mounts seem fine!

Maleficio 06-11-2010 06:38 AM

I can feel heat shooting straight up through my auto-shifter base, so I'm going to attack from the top end with spray foam or the like.

harborman 06-11-2010 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maleficio (Post 5399094)
I can feel heat shooting straight up through my auto-shifter base, so I'm going to attack from the top end with spray foam or the like.

keep us updated on how it worked.

Mrmerlin 06-11-2010 07:20 PM

I wouldnt use any type of spray foam, your likely to have a fire hazard. remember the TT moves around so a flexible type of foam is required. I have seen where POs have remove the heat shield and then stuffed foam up along the sides of the TT and around the shifter this usually helps.
If your oil pan is close to flush with bottom of the oil pan then the MMs are good

harborman 06-12-2010 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin (Post 5400142)
I wouldnt use any type of spray foam, your likely to have a fire hazard. remember the TT moves around so a flexible type of foam is required. I have seen where POs have remove the heat shield and then stuffed foam up along the sides of the TT and around the shifter this usually helps.
If your oil pan is close to flush with bottom of the oil pan then the MMs are good

Not sure what you meant: "If your oil pan is close to flush with bottom of the oil pan then the MMs are good"

Mrmerlin 06-12-2010 06:38 AM

with good MMs the bottom of the oil pan will be very close to the same level as the bottom of the crossmember,
if its below the bolts then its a good chance the MMs are sagging and need to be replaced. if you use the Rock auto mounts then add 2 large diameter fender washers for an adittional 3mm of lift to each side these would go on the tops of the new mounts.

harborman 06-12-2010 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin (Post 5400562)
with good MMs the bottom of the oil pan will be very close to the same level as the bottom of the crossmember,
if its below the bolts then its a good chance the MMs are sagging and need to be replaced. if you use the Rock auto mounts then add 2 large diameter fender washers for an adittional 3mm of lift to each side these would go on the tops of the new mounts.


Looks like mine is in line with the level of the cross member.

BReyes 07-15-2010 09:27 PM

Temps have been very warm, or possibly a torn rubber boot under the handle, or do micro cracks in the sound deadening cause leaks. I have also found original asbestos type fabric under there simialr to the (aftermarket) tape wrapping my exhaust pipes.

Regards,

Maleficio 07-17-2010 06:57 AM

I had a good look at the foam cover over the TT. It looks fine from below, don't know if it's split on top. I'm thinking I can get away with spraying some foam up in there that will expand and fill in the cracks. Heat resistance is what I need to worry about, though.

MAXFILL Expanding Sealant - Fills large holes and gaps - Spray Foam Insulation

Mrmerlin 07-18-2010 08:29 PM

I would not use any type of spray foam

Maleficio 07-18-2010 08:59 PM

Quote:

I would not use any type of spray foam
Why not?

Mrmerlin 07-18-2010 09:53 PM

it could be a potential fire hazard as the cats are under the foam.
I have not tried to burn the foam thats part of the original assembly but i would guess that it must have some kind of heat or fire retardant incorporated in it,
you should figure that the TT will be running in the area of about 200 to 300 degrees F or more .
If you put a solid foam in there this can also cause other issues remember that the TT / drive line moves when the engine is running adding a solid portion to this may transfer NVH to the chassis

Maleficio 07-19-2010 08:11 AM

If I do it, I'll use flame retardant foam. I only plan on using enough to fill in the crack in the front/center of the factory foam piece.

Valentine911 07-19-2010 03:56 PM

Maleficio, keep us advised - I am having the same issue with my 83 928S A/T at 63,300 miles...

Maleficio 07-19-2010 09:02 PM

Will do. I bought a can of DAT foam today, but I may keep searching for a true flame retardant foam for this project.

Landseer 07-20-2010 04:23 AM

The motor mounts are filled with water that leaks and they collapse.
Every single car I've found has had collapsed mounts.
The foam doesn't decompose much (unless rodents damage it).

If heat is entering the switch area, as Stan said over a month ago, whether you like it or not, whether you have 30K miles or 130K miles, you need motor mounts to stop the heat.

Will help with driveline sounds and rumble as well.

I've also had one new set of aftermarket mounts fail and need to replace them with the new V8 Volvo mounts during the next couple weeks. How did I know? The heat was back, which prompted a look. Pan bottom should be at a higher level than crossmember. The V8 Volvo mounts are water filled but appear beefy and adequate and have good reviews on the 928. The porsche motor mounts are prohibitively expensive for me.

Not dissing your foam-fill per se, just don't shortchange your driving experience and put undo stress on the driveline by ignoring the harder-to-approach MM issue. If your car has original mounts, they need replacement.

Maleficio 07-20-2010 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Landseer (Post 5463238)
The motor mounts are filled with water that leaks and they collapse.
Every single car I've found has had collapsed mounts.
The foam doesn't decompose much (unless rodents damage it).

If heat is entering the switch area, as Stan said over a month ago, whether you like it or not, whether you have 30K miles or 130K miles, you need motor mounts to stop the heat.

Will help with driveline sounds and rumble as well.

I've also had one new set of aftermarket mounts fail and need to replace them with the new V8 Volvo mounts during the next couple weeks. How did I know? The heat was back, which prompted a look. Pan bottom should be at a higher level than crossmember. The V8 Volvo mounts are water filled but appear beefy and adequate and have good reviews on the 928. The porsche motor mounts are prohibitively expensive for me.

Not dissing your foam-fill per se, just don't shortchange your driving experience and put undo stress on the driveline by ignoring the harder-to-approach MM issue. If your car has original mounts, they need replacement.


Thanks for the feedback, Chris.

What's really strange is that the heat comes and goes, as if an HVAC valve is opening and closing in the lower forward area of the center console. Sometimes searing heat will barrel out the center console, as I've got the side panels removed.



My mounts are solid, and they look okay, but I'll check again this week.

lfausty 07-21-2010 07:59 PM

mine goes like that too some days searing heat barrelling out at front side small gap at shifter leather edge where it meets console. and then days and days nice and cool. way way more cool days than hot ones but when hot atrocious.

Thinking about it seems its when ive turned car on and didnt leave quicker i got back out to do something/s -forgot, had to answer to,or checking something .

like a flapper/valve has reached a temperature and stayed open keeping a heat cycle/build up going and not countering with cool or closed flapper/ valve .

Thinking more, ouch!, theres days, far and few , dont know if same as the hot air days but when turn pcar off a pressured short hiss happens seems at footwell pass side under glove box.
I do know hvac hasnt been completely worked out so no surprise really. hiss hiss already lol


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