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Warm under window switches
I have noticed it can feel pretty warm if I place my hand on the widow and sun roof switch area of the shifter console, especially if I have been on the road for sometime. Has anyone else noticed this?
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I do recall noticing a bit of heat when I pulled up my shift boot, but other than that, I don't remember the switches ever getting warm. IIRC the catalytic converter is almost directly beneath that area, but there should be a large foam insulation piece and a heat shield between it and the tunnel. Could you be missing either one of these?
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Mine does the exact same thing. I've heard the big foam block under the console, over the TT, can degrade, split apart, and allow heat into the cabin through the shifter port.
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In fact, I think this excessive heat is what shortens the life span of the console switches.
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extra heat is usually a sign of motor mount failre, the mount let the engine TT fall down this pulls the foam dow as well and creates a way for hot air to enter the shifter area if you keep the windows up less hot air will be drawn through the shifter
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I actually have a breeze that comes from this area. very hot too. post your fix-it if you find one.
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I think the foam insulation piece is best viewed with the heat shield removed.
You may be able to drop the heat shield without removing the catalytic converter. |
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Did you see your motor mounts settle?
Regards, |
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I can feel heat shooting straight up through my auto-shifter base, so I'm going to attack from the top end with spray foam or the like.
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I wouldnt use any type of spray foam, your likely to have a fire hazard. remember the TT moves around so a flexible type of foam is required. I have seen where POs have remove the heat shield and then stuffed foam up along the sides of the TT and around the shifter this usually helps.
If your oil pan is close to flush with bottom of the oil pan then the MMs are good |
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with good MMs the bottom of the oil pan will be very close to the same level as the bottom of the crossmember,
if its below the bolts then its a good chance the MMs are sagging and need to be replaced. if you use the Rock auto mounts then add 2 large diameter fender washers for an adittional 3mm of lift to each side these would go on the tops of the new mounts. |
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Looks like mine is in line with the level of the cross member. |
Temps have been very warm, or possibly a torn rubber boot under the handle, or do micro cracks in the sound deadening cause leaks. I have also found original asbestos type fabric under there simialr to the (aftermarket) tape wrapping my exhaust pipes.
Regards, |
I had a good look at the foam cover over the TT. It looks fine from below, don't know if it's split on top. I'm thinking I can get away with spraying some foam up in there that will expand and fill in the cracks. Heat resistance is what I need to worry about, though.
MAXFILL Expanding Sealant - Fills large holes and gaps - Spray Foam Insulation |
I would not use any type of spray foam
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it could be a potential fire hazard as the cats are under the foam.
I have not tried to burn the foam thats part of the original assembly but i would guess that it must have some kind of heat or fire retardant incorporated in it, you should figure that the TT will be running in the area of about 200 to 300 degrees F or more . If you put a solid foam in there this can also cause other issues remember that the TT / drive line moves when the engine is running adding a solid portion to this may transfer NVH to the chassis |
If I do it, I'll use flame retardant foam. I only plan on using enough to fill in the crack in the front/center of the factory foam piece.
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Maleficio, keep us advised - I am having the same issue with my 83 928S A/T at 63,300 miles...
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Will do. I bought a can of DAT foam today, but I may keep searching for a true flame retardant foam for this project.
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The motor mounts are filled with water that leaks and they collapse.
Every single car I've found has had collapsed mounts. The foam doesn't decompose much (unless rodents damage it). If heat is entering the switch area, as Stan said over a month ago, whether you like it or not, whether you have 30K miles or 130K miles, you need motor mounts to stop the heat. Will help with driveline sounds and rumble as well. I've also had one new set of aftermarket mounts fail and need to replace them with the new V8 Volvo mounts during the next couple weeks. How did I know? The heat was back, which prompted a look. Pan bottom should be at a higher level than crossmember. The V8 Volvo mounts are water filled but appear beefy and adequate and have good reviews on the 928. The porsche motor mounts are prohibitively expensive for me. Not dissing your foam-fill per se, just don't shortchange your driving experience and put undo stress on the driveline by ignoring the harder-to-approach MM issue. If your car has original mounts, they need replacement. |
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Thanks for the feedback, Chris. What's really strange is that the heat comes and goes, as if an HVAC valve is opening and closing in the lower forward area of the center console. Sometimes searing heat will barrel out the center console, as I've got the side panels removed. My mounts are solid, and they look okay, but I'll check again this week. |
mine goes like that too some days searing heat barrelling out at front side small gap at shifter leather edge where it meets console. and then days and days nice and cool. way way more cool days than hot ones but when hot atrocious.
Thinking about it seems its when ive turned car on and didnt leave quicker i got back out to do something/s -forgot, had to answer to,or checking something . like a flapper/valve has reached a temperature and stayed open keeping a heat cycle/build up going and not countering with cool or closed flapper/ valve . Thinking more, ouch!, theres days, far and few , dont know if same as the hot air days but when turn pcar off a pressured short hiss happens seems at footwell pass side under glove box. I do know hvac hasnt been completely worked out so no surprise really. hiss hiss already lol |
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