928 Advice

[GermanBoy]

Hey Guys,

New to the boards here...

Going to look at a 1980 928S Euro in a day or 2 with less than 50k miles. It's a one owner car and from what he says it has had the waterpump and timing belt changed less than 1k miles ago. Tho I'm not really sure that's as important as he claims it has the Non-Interference motor.

No body damage, few scratches here and there (not really a problem as I want to have it painted a different color), and the interior is aged, but no rips or cracks.

He wants 7k for it.

I've never owned one of these but have always wanted one. I had a 944T back a few years ago and know those well.

I guess what i'm asking is a.) does the the price sound right? and b.) what sort of things should i be looking for when I go look at it? What are some common problems with these? What do I stay away from?

Any input and advice would be fantastic. This seems like a really great buy. I just want to be smart about it.

Thanks

[Landseer]

"one owner" is about the only way I would halfway trust an 80 having less than 50K mi.

Most Euros were used in Germany, then imported, speedos switched and mileage reset to zero. Later, odo gears break due to degrading rubber drive gears and cars can rack-up miles for years without records. So, beyond that, there are general condition things to check.

If its one owner and this guy is that owner, it should be much easier to corroborate the above. Ask for the federalization paperwork, too. If its a reseller who claims to have bought it from the original owner, get ready to run..really.

If your buying in the promise that its a Euro S, with the high output motor, then the motor codes are important to check. Post the motor code here for an initial review.

Posting the VIN will allow guys here to run the original Porsche option sheet.

On the water pump, its important to know where it was sourced --- rebuilts from multiple sources have been failing in the cars and destroying the block surface to which it mates. Probably not the most critical thing to consider at this point.

Euro S motor is supposed to be interference. Euro motor may not be, some debate, especially with carbon buildup.

The list goes on. You should be very wary about spending much money on this thing unless you really know the owner / car.

7K is a lot of money for a 1980 car. But, its reasonable if its a preserved 50K car, especially Euro S. Absolutely not if its cobbled-up or if stories start to diverge. If not the original owner, be ready to run.

You can buy a whole lot of 928 for $7000 in this economy. I bought the last 3 USA cars for a total less than that figure, including 2 32V cars that had actual 73 and 71K on them respectively.

No matter what, prepare to spend $2 k or more to make it roadable unless truly well-maintained (rare).


Be very smart about parting with $7K in this economy. Very smart. 928 scammers and truth-stretchers seem to line the edges of this hobby.

[stepson]

Really good advise all the way around Chris!

GermanBoy, you got in one post what normally takes 10. Heed the warnings and keep your eyes and ears open when you look at the car.

Good Luck

[GermanBoy]

Thanks for the great response!

Ask for the federalization paperwork, too./

What is this?

It was my understanding that these were available in the US in 83.

Also...

This is a 5sp, I think I read somewhere that these have multiple clutch disks. Is there anything that should be known about that?

I emailed the guy and asked for the motor code and VIN. Where would the motor code be located?

Thanks

[Landseer]

If its a Euro S, or Euro, either of which is also termed a grey-market car, and also called a ROW (rest of world, other than USA car)..... then to be imported it needed to be federalized and paperwork was issued to confirm it was adapted to USA safety and emissions standards.

I'm assuming you are in USA somewhere.

If it is titled in the same state where you would re-title it, maybe not an issue. But the VIN number is different in sequence than DMV's expect, so you might need the federalization paperwork to help you register it. Maybe, too, for some smog/emission reasons.

Sometimes the cars are termed "euro" by owners and they are not really grey market euro cars.

Sometimes early cars (pre 83) get the S-spoilers fitted and then the owner call them a Euro S. They may not be Euro, may not be S, and may not be the special "euro S" 310 hp motor.

Motor code is on a flat area somewhere near the front of the valley near the water bridge.

No, what we term Euro S came I think in two different engine injection configurations (mechanical and L-Jet computer) but was NEVER made available directly in showrooms to the US Market. USA got the S, but without the two versions of Euro-high-rated motor that were produced for the S. Again, there is also apparently Euro motor that is nothing special, vs Euro S.

See its a bit complicated and there is room for misinterpretation and in some cases, room for slicking the potential buyer.

Do you know the buyer and is he the actual original owner.?

[Landseer]

I'm hoping Danglerb or somebody else with more Euro experience chimes in.

The VIN number is also an area of confusion. Euro cars have a VIN number that includes three Z characters. ZZZ. My Euro S does not have the VIN number in the drivers windshield like a USA car. Nor does it have a VIN on the door frame. But, it has it on, acutally beneath the passenger fender on a cut-out, near the row of bolts that bolt the fender to the body under the hood.

But ALL 928 cars have that. My USA cars have it. And it has 3 Z characters. But the USA cars have another VIN WITHOUT the ZZZ characters located on a plate under the windshield, drivers side, visible as you approach the car.

So your question can also be: Is this a true grey market, "direct import" 928? If yes, it needed to have been officially federalized. The original owner SURE AS HELL would remember that process, as it probably cost another $5-10K to go through at the time and added a wait.

So.

What year?
Is it grey market Euro or really just USA.
Does it have "S" spoilers on front and rear?
Where they retrofitted or come with the car?
If a Euro, is it Euro or Euro S? What motor #?
If USA... again, confirm motor #.
In any case, get VIN and determine if there is or isn't a VIN plate at driver's windshield.

I think that covers it. Unless you want to confirm the transmission and whether or not it has limited slip. That's more numbers, cross that bridge later.

Again, no matter what, it had better be real nice for $7K

[GermanBoy]

I don't know the owner.

It is in the state of Maine and here is the ad for it: Porsche 928S, will trade for Harley, no sportsters

I am also in Maine.

I have been in contact with the owner via email and have asked him various questions. He has sent a few pics.

[GermanBoy]

Also...

[riber.bentsen]

That is a true Euro S in 1980-spec. Which means some 300 horsepower, unless it has been fitted with cats during federelization.

The way to tell is the fog-light in the rear bumper

COOL license plate!

[EIPtuningR32]

Im gonna have another friend!!!!!!!!

[EIPtuningR32]

waiiiiit.... it has US spec front fenders............hmmmmmmm

[EIPtuningR32]

you might want to ask him if its been wrecked in the front.... or if he knows the story behind him having US fenders on a so called Euro car.....

[GermanBoy]

How can you tell? How do you know they are US Spec?

[GermanBoy]

He said there has been no accidents or damage.

[riber.bentsen]

It doesn't have US-spec fenders. If you open the link to the ad, it has the euro side indicators (nearer to the doors). The red rear/orange front have been added.. (And looks goofy). This is a genuine euro, but I would be more concerned about the odometer-reading - no way the interior could get this battered in <50k miles. Or some arse has just been sitting in that drivers seat for a looong time.

[GermanBoy]

Looking at the ODO in the pic ... it is US (MPH) ... Should that be a concern?

[riber.bentsen]

For the final time: THIS IS A EURO CAR, no doubt about it. ODO changeout during federelization is standard procedure.

[riber.bentsen]

As is fitting the ugly-as-dogpoo rear rubber impact-thingies.

[GermanBoy]

Hehe, not doubting you, just trying to cover my ass.

Should I be concerned with how many miles were on it before the changeout? Is it listed in the federalization papers? Is it possible that it had 75k KM on it before it was changed out?

Would that be listed in the paperwork?

[GermanBoy]

Again, I'm just trying to get as much info as possible so that I know what I'm purchaing.

If it is all that is advertised is the price right? Should I haggle?