Found source of oil spillage..

[riber.bentsen]

A couple of days ago I was under the car to change the oil pressure sensor (not possible without removing oil filter btw. so didn't change it). Anyway, noticed that all, and I mean all the bolts holding on the oil pan were loose. So loose that I could spin the washers in between. This can't be normal? It's as if someone put the bolts in with their fingers and forgot to tighten.

Now, I know they are not supposed to be super tight, but I snugged most of them down with a normal 10mm wrench, those I could reach that is. Scary.

[1984928]

I've had to tighten mine up twice over the years. The cork gasket compresses over time.

[riber.bentsen]

Yeah, and I just read that they have a tendency to back out too :S

I have to pull myself together and do the silicone gasket and motormounts..

[harborman]

I did the same to my 86. They were a little lose so I tightened them but not too much, just a little, then rechecked the next day. My problem is really some slight oil leaking at the bottom of the cam covers. I was able to snug the bottom bolts a little but just a slight amount. Maybe 1/4 or 1/8 turn at best. Will see how it worked when I get the car out in March.

Originally Posted by riber.bentsen

Yeah, and I just read that they have a tendency to back out too :S

I have to pull myself together and do the silicone gasket and motormounts..

[JK McDonald]

Hey riber.Bentsen, The oil pan bolts are known to become finger tight during normal operation and should be checked regularly. The affect of the engine’s heat cycles on two large aluminum surfaces with a soft cork gasket in-between can allow oil seepage even under the best of conditions. This is especially true if the gasket is damaged (bolts over torqued) or the gasket has become saturated with oil (from loose bolts). Sometimes, you can simply snug everything down rather than replace the gasket - just go at it gingerly.

If a damaged seal requires that you replace it, some owners have had the best results by substituting a series of studs/nuts for the 10mm mounting bolts. This combination seems to maintain a consistent oil tight assembly longer than the bolts. When changing out the gasket always make sure to begin with an absolutely oil free working surface - 1st, always use a quality synthetic gasket and a light amount of red gasket-making sealant. 2nd, Tighten the bolts from the center - using a circular (cylinder head style) sequence. 3rd, Snug the bolts down initially just past contact with the oil pan and then to 6 ft/lbs of torque. You should see very little gasket bulge as you come up to the correct torque.

Good Luck, Michael

[harborman]

I remember having a problem on my 427 Vette valve covers with leaks. At at that time I remember getting these spring type clamps. The cover bolts would go though these and you tightened it down. The ends were beveled, sort of a little "V" at each end to keep pressure on the edge of the cover. It might have been a part off of a corvair (unsafe at any speed car). Anyway it worked as it kept this pressure. They might have been 3 inches long and narrow to fit along the lip of the cover. -v-----!-----v- looking edge wise with bolt in center. So the center is brought tight leaving ends up with constant spring pressure on each side.