Engine pull weekend

[1980-928]

I'm pulling the motor this weekend, 1980 US Auto L jet. I have everything disconnected and ready to go, I think.
The Work shop manual I have is for a 79 CSI manual, so there are differences.
I only have 3 questions:
1. The manual shows removing the engine mounts. I unbolted the engine from the mount and it look like when the crane lifts it will clear. The bolt holding the mount to the cross member looks inaccessible.
2. Engine shocks, do you remove them from the engine mount top and the frame point bottom? or just from the bottom frame point.
3. When I pull the engine forward what holds the bell housing up from falling?
I was thinking of putting the jack under it.

Wish me good luck I'll post pictures when its out.
Thanks!

[gbgastowers]

Originally Posted by 1980-928

I'm pulling the motor this weekend, 1980 US Auto L jet. I have everything disconnected and ready to go, I think.
The Work shop manual I have is for a 79 CSI manual, so there are differences.
I only have 3 questions:
1. The manual shows removing the engine mounts. I unbolted the engine from the mount and it look like when the crane lifts it will clear. The bolt holding the mount to the cross member looks inaccessible.
2. Engine shocks, do you remove them from the engine mount top and the frame point bottom? or just from the bottom frame point.
3. When I pull the engine forward what holds the bell housing up from falling?
I was thinking of putting the jack under it.

Wish me good luck I'll post pictures when its out.
Thanks!

Hi,
I have done this twice recently on an 82 Euro S 5 spd.
Question 1 answer= you have to remove the plate under the steering rack and I think loosen the rack to access these bolts.

2. I only removed mine from the frame attachment points and left them attached to the block. You can fold them up if you need to.

3. FOR A 5 SPEED MANUAL(DON'T KNOW ABOUT AN AUTO) If you removed the 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the block you don't need to support the bell housing. It will move around a bit which you will need to do to get the dowel pins to release and clear when hoisting the engine out. You will also need to move the bell housing some to line up and get the dowels to go in when you put the engine back in. I used a jack for this. take your time,be careful and don't tear anything up. Gunar

[Pete R]

1 I don't remember what I did with the mm but I followed the wsm and it was ok.

2 I took them totally off, I wanted as few parts as possible to interfere with alighnment as possible. It was only 4 bolts.

3 IIRC i had something crossing the tunnel maybe an exhaust mount or something. i just let it rest on that.. probably isn't reccomended though.. I would use a jack or equiv.

[Danglerb]

My only tip is if the car starts lifting up, stop and look some more.

[Anthony10370]

3: yep Porsche recommends placing a "locally manufactured" block of wood behind the bell housing between the torque tube and the cross brace to keep it in place... but this is only for convenience so you don't have to lift it back up when you put the engine back in. when I pulled my engine I didn't do that/ no big deal.

-Anthony.

[1980-928]

Engine came out with more tugging then I thought, but everything went ok.
Thanks for the help, I did leave the motor mounts in.
Leaving them in probably explains the extra tugging.

The work shop manual show the engine mounted to a engine stand with a U shaped leg that fits under the engine mounts.
Will the motor hang from the stand mounted to the bell housing, or do I need to make an engine support like the workshop manual?
Is the motor to heavy to support itself and strip the treads from the aluminum block?

[Pete R]

more tugging that expected huh? wait til you try and put it back in and make everything line up

It will mount to a "normal" engine stand just fine. It just takes some trial and error with the arms. IIRC, 2 bolts will thread into the bell housing, the other 2 went through, through holes and were secured with a nut and washer You may have to remove you clutch though, I'm not sure.

btw.. its being held up by only 2 smaller bolts now

[MPDano]

Yup, like Pete said. It get's fun putting it back in. This is why I said that I will "never" pull another 928 engine again.

[Danglerb]

Pulling the engine is the only way to go with a new to you, but keeper 928. Too much stuff is close to impossible without pulling the motor, and pretty much ALL the 928's out there need oil pan gasket and motor mounts minimum anyway.

Take your time, be careful about water in the engine bay some stuff absolutely does not like getting wet.

[F18Rep]

The work shop manual show the engine mounted to a engine stand with a U shaped leg that fits under the engine mounts.

You could maybe make a simple support. I did. Bruce

[1980-928]

The motor is coming apart well, the thermostat bridge had 2 frozen hex key bolts. With a little heat and penetrating oil they came out well. I would like to replace these with 10 mm bolts, good or bad idea?
I have one cam tower off and hope to get the heads off this weekend.
Enclosed is a picture of one of the exhaust ports were the steel liner is coming out. I assume it can be pressed back in ? Anyone with any experience with this?

Thanks !

[1980-928]

I live in the Buffalo area, any recommended machine shops I can send the heads to for a valve job with new guides and 3 angle cut ??
Are the silicon valve seals better then the rubber ones in the gasket set?

[Danglerb]

My next job is pulling the thermo bridge to try and again and hope it seals, so I would not do ANYTHING non stock without hearing a few people have done it with good results. I don't have a freakin clue what I could have done wrong, but that doesn't keep the coolant from dripping out.

[MPDano]

My bridge on my Euro was a byotch to install and get those 2 gaskets to line up, let alone line up to actually screw the bolts in. I used RTV on mine and haven't seen a drop of coolant anywhere in 2 years.

[1980-928]

I found this in the WSM about the bridge.
I think they want you to enlarge the mounting holes to take the tension out of the assembly.

Should I take out the old exhaust studs and put stainless steel ones in??

[Pete R]

I would change the exhaust studs, I don't know pro or con of the stainless but I'd at least do steel ones.

My bridge sucked getting on too. I actually have a groove with an o-ring on my mating surface.

[Danglerb]

I was hot for stainless for "awhile", but I have heard its bad with aluminum mix with iron and not good at all in the exhaust as it galls or something like that.

I think my bridge may be leaking around that big new expensive oring.