83 clutch adjustment elements
 

83 clutch adjustment elements can some post some photos? I can't find them at all

thanks

Goto Manuals, download WSM. Check Volume II, pages 22-45. If I could upload a PDF here, I would.

Pry the three tees on the intermediate plate full back.

If clutch splines are rust free and lubricated with proper very sticky lubricant, kind of like a copper antisieze/open gear grease combo, then it should all self center and slide properly fore/aft.

There is much discussion here about replacement master cylinders having too little stroke.

There is also possiblility of replacement used parts being from an early 5 speed and having nuanced differences with 83 and not function properly.

Is car known to you or is it new to you? Do you know the parts are right and innards are clean?

Is it not Hydraulic ? with No Adjustment other then the Pedal Free Play ?
I thought that if the Pedal was low that it would indicate possible Low Fluid and Or Air in the Slave Cylinder and the whole Fluid System .
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Top off the Fluid and Bleed the Slave Cylinder after Pumping up the Clutch Pedal and with a Line placed on the bleeder valve in a Bottle of Brake Fluid at the bottom Bleed out the Air .
If You See Bubbles then That's Air >> Continue until you see No Air >
If The Fluid Is very Dirty ( and I bet it is ) Just run about a Quart of New Fluid through the Whole System and the Brakes then bleed it again . A pressure bleeder is best but can be done with the motor running and a Helper > for Brakes

It's hydraulic, your assumption is correct. Landseer was talking about the intermediate plate adjustment per a clutch job.

The hydraulic cylinder in the master, if a replaced by the typically available later one, has insufficient stroke to drive the slave cylinder. Stroke modification instructions have been posted by Mr. Merlin.

The bleeding of the clutch is a very difficult thing. With the wrong stroke its nearly impossible without doing an air-burp into the cockpit area by removing the retaining clip.

There are a dozen issues that can occur, alone or together, and diminish the operation of the clutch. Then, the transmission's already weak synchros pay more of a price.

So, the clutch is hydraulic. On a factory new car, it will probably work. 30 years later, do an inventory of parts and functions before you drive yourself crazy.

thanks 153bigblock for the link to the manuals spent a lot of time reading them

Landseer the car is new to me but after I opened the inspection housing and looking at the parts I found that my Release Bearing has to much free play.I will need a new one so I will get to see what how much meat is left on the disks.
Is there a good site that has the old throwout bearing pre 1987?

thanks for the help