My motor seized... - Page 3

19psi · 19psi's Garage

I wish this wasn't 700+ miles away. Transport looks to be between $600 to $700...too much.

Biggest vehicle I have is a 1998 Olds Bravada. I'm afraid a full U-Haul car trailer and a 928 would be pushing its limits.

namasgt · 12-03-2011, 05:05 PM

One possibility is trust bearing failure, crank shaft dug itself into the block...., that would cause the crank assembly to seize.

How was the car doing before? Did it ever shut down while getting to a stop light or stop sign?

How long you have had it for and how many miles you put on it?

Also what kind of oil did you used in it, brand and weight?

Ali

neil30076 · neil30076's Garage

I'm going with the TBF as well, its an auto, no known history - have you taken a look at the oil - pull the dipstick, let the oil drip onto a piece of white card, and then examine under a very bright light - do you see shiny specs in it - indicative of tbf or main bearing failure.

Mrmerlin · 12-04-2011, 02:13 PM

Neil if you use the dripping oil test it will work better if you use a black piece of cardboard ,
and look at the oil in the sun the metallic particles show up better with black background

neil30076 · neil30076's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

Neil if you use the dripping oil test it will work better if you use a black piece of cardboard ,
and look at the oil in the sun the metallic particles show up better with black background

Good point Stan. Also i found that using a flourescing light source on the end of a boroscope and therefore much closer up can sometimes yield better results.

Landseer · 12-04-2011, 05:21 PM

I'd probably want to get it into the air and change the oil.
The car looks very good in pictures.
I'd be hitting it with the paddles until security dragged me off.

firefighter7128 · firefighter7128's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by namasgt

One possibility is trust bearing failure, crank shaft dug itself into the block...., that would cause the crank assembly to seize.

How was the car doing before? Did it ever shut down while getting to a stop light or stop sign?

How long you have had it for and how many miles you put on it?

Also what kind of oil did you used in it, brand and weight?

Ali

Recently, (as it has gotten much colder) the car needs a bit of help ideling while warming up. it wanted to idle at 200rpm. if not warm enough, it would stall on me but no prob to re-start. I hadnt looked into it but assumed it was the idle control.

Had the car 6 weeks. I got the title in the mail the day it broke down. Joy! When I bought it, I took it right to my own mechanic and he did a visual inspection on the belt, changed the oil and gave me a list of things to start on such as leaking PS pump and of course the same side ball joint. Other minor issues. He did a tranny filter change, oil change, topped of fluids and new plugs.

He said the belt looked new and that it was good, metel braided, reinforced belt.

Mrmerlin · 12-04-2011, 06:22 PM

Matt please post pictures of the belt

not_hans_stuck · 12-04-2011, 06:26 PM

Sorry to hear that dude. race-cars.com has a motor for sale.

But I wouldn't waste my money on another one of gigantor motors that don't make any horsepower.

I'd do an LS-3 conversion and give it some real beans.

H

namasgt · 12-04-2011, 07:51 PM

What kind of oil did your mechanic put in your engine? what weight was it?

Danglerb · 12-04-2011, 08:08 PM

TBF I'm thinking is usually hot start issues, but eventually thunk, block etc is toast.

MPDano · MPDano's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by firefighter7128

He said the belt looked new and that it was good, metel braided, reinforced belt.

You can never go by "looks good" with these belts. Rubber degrades over time. Unless you had good history on the car when you bought it, it's one of the very first things that are changed out. Same with Water Pump and Fuel Lines.