1984 928s_mn

[wallstreet]

On January 6, 2012, I purchased a 1984 928S w/ 77,950 miles. There appeared to be a complete car less the crankshaft pulleys, belts, key and title. I posted to this forum requesting information on the key. Some might remember the photo of the odd window/roof switch "tower". Landseer and others reported a process to acquire a key. I applied to the State of Minnesota for a duplicate title from the PO. He signed the application and a Power of Attorney. I received the dup. title in a few days; then recycled the new title in PO's name to mine. Within less than 10 days a new MN title arrived; 1/19/2012. POA cut a new key for $100 on Monday this week. Today, I received a key w/o head. This PM I inserted the key in the glove box, the ignition, the two door locks and the rear hatch. The key works in ALL cylinders.

In general, a common theme to the 928 and reliability is: change the timing belt, clean the grounds and clean the fuel system.
I acquired a harmonic balancer, two crankshaft pulleys w/ bolt and thrust washer from a vin "C" 1981 car. I might need the "stacked" pulley for a 1984; not certain if the '81 to '84 will interchange (?). The HB is for sale or trade (I might need the replace the HB on my engine).
Last, The wheels are staggered 7 & 9's; 17" ( was this even an option in '84?). They could be aftermarket; I do not see any markings denoting them to be Porsche wheels. Embossed "made in Italy" (reading backwards w/ mirror) might be the only clue. . I have seen a photo of a mid 80's 928 with a similar wheel.
THX The G-Man

[stepson]

If the '81 was an L-Jet engine, the HB should interchange. If the '81 was CIS, it will have different markings (ie. the timing mark at 3000 rpm will be different)

Those are aftermarket wheels to the 928.

[riber.bentsen]

The wheels are most likely replicas of the ones found on late 90's 911 996 Carreras..

[Dean_Fuller]

I suggest you get a copy of your cars PET manual for that year. It will give you an exploded view of all the parts you are missing along with part numbers.

FYI...I use my PET as much or MORE than the maintenance manuals. I LIKE pictures.

Your car would have come with "man hole cover" wheels from the factory. As others have said...what you have are replicas of a factory "turbo twist" wheel. My son has a set of real ones on his 1980 that came off a 2000 Boxster. The wheel shape shows up on many models but the off sets very.

BTW...if your worried they are cheap knock offs...I wouldn't be. I have a set of replicas on my 1989 made in ITALY and they are fine wheels. IMHO.

[MPDano]

Actually those look like the stock Porsche Boxster Wheels called Twists, but "not" Turbo Twists. The Boxster offsets fit nicely on the 928's as well. They are all over eBay and CL since it's the first thing upgraded on the Boxsters.

[riber.bentsen]

Leo is (of course) correct:

[MPDano]

Here are the "Turbo" Twists which look awesome but are pricey. The Hollow ones are the ones you want as they are very lightweight. I wanted them for my "S" but couldn't afford them.

[riber.bentsen]

Yup they are BIG bucks - can you even get them in 928-offset? How about aftermarked replicas, did you look into that?

[MPDano]

Nah, I just heard that if it fit's on a Boxster, it will fit on a 928. I believe they are 55 Offset.

[Danglerb]

I think the Boxster fronts are only 7" which properly supports nothing wider than a 205 vs stock 225 on a 928.

BIG question I would be asking is why is this stuff off the motor. I would be doing a lot of checking before buttoning it up. Actually my after three 928's opinion is just to go ahead and pull the engine and give it the full treatment on a stand instead of in the bay.

Porsche dealers can also order the lighted head to fit the cut key (assuming thats the one they cut).

[wallstreet]

Correction: 1982 not '81: 1982 928 car. VIN:WP0JA0921CS820xxx
If it were an '81 J motor the HB might/would interchange. Correct?
Same w/ '82?
Will vin tell me if it is J or CIS?
I only have the '84 for refernce. Not cert6ain ig it is CIS or J.
The AC pulley will work. Will the stacked pulley work if the belts align?

Originally Posted by stepson

If the '81 was an L-Jet engine, the HB should interchange. If the '81 was CIS, it will have different markings (ie. the timing mark at 3000 rpm will be different)

Those are aftermarket wheels to the 928.

I believe they are aftermarket wheels as there is no reference to Porsche numbering ( or any other reference) on wheel webbing.

[MPDano]

US 84 is L-Jet.

[wallstreet]

Tires: 255/40/17 F & 225/45/17 R. Front rim appears to be 8", "Made in Italy" & ET might be 52.

"Why was stuff removed?". The PO was a mechanic who traded away a $2500 car for a Porsche. He worked on it; got it to run slightly then gave up. He did not see the ceramic fuses nor the grounding issues as a deterent. It was hard starting, injectoprs would not "turn on". etc. All thei things I would expect with several of the electronic systems poorly maintained. He replaced plug wires #1 and #2 with Ford blue wires and boots. You can also view his switch repair because he "was not paying $20 for a Porsche switch". It was stored. The storgage lot wanted it moved for winter storage for "paying customers" . Car was complete at the end of October. Vehicle was sold to a salvage yard for parts. Still nothing missing. The mechanic at the yard was ordered to remove the HB for sale. In the process, as he tells me; "the pulleys were missing however car was driven in". So there was a key. He informed yard owner the HB was "gouged" and not sellable. Upon ownership, I have not seen a gouged HB. Belts were missing, pulleys and washers and bolt were missing. Key was missing and drivers inner door panel was missing (altho PO said it was there). I beleive the yard mechanic could not remove the HB and merely reported it as not sellable. Yard owner would never verify.
If you read my original post. My plan was to replace the timing belt ASAP. renew the grounds to possible include plugs and wires and other consumibles and flush the fuel system. AT THE LEAST. There is no plan to "button it up". At this momnent I would not pull the motor.
I ordered a plastic key head from dealership today for a few bucks; way less than a lighted key I do not need. All I received as a key was the cut blade.. for $100

Originally Posted by Danglerb

I think the Boxster fronts are only 7" which properly supports nothing wider than a 205 vs stock 225 on a 928.

BIG question I would be asking is why is this stuff off the motor. I would be doing a lot of checking before buttoning it up. Actually my after three 928's opinion is just to go ahead and pull the engine and give it the full treatment on a stand instead of in the bay.

Porsche dealers can also order the lighted head to fit the cut key (assuming thats the one they cut).

[wallstreet]

And the '82 is?

Originally Posted by MPDano

US 84 is L-Jet.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by wallstreet

And the '82 is?

L-Jet

Porsche 928 Forums dot com - View topic - 928 Engine Types & Performance Data

[Dean_Fuller]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Actually those look like the stock Porsche Boxster Wheels called Twists, but "not" Turbo Twists. The Boxster offsets fit nicely on the 928's as well. They are all over eBay and CL since it's the first thing upgraded on the Boxsters.

My bad....glad Leo is here to set me straight.

But the 82 is a 4.5 L NOT the 4.7.

[wallstreet]

A member posted an off site FYI by a third party; maybe from Renn., regarding the restoration of the CE. Technician mentioned it took about 4.5 hours and I believe he mentioned Stabnilant. Please repost the link.
Thank you
G-man

[wallstreet]

Answered my own question:

SharkSkin 928 Page
Shark Attack

SharkSkin - Shark Attack Round Four - Bzzzzzzt! Fuse/Relay Panel Reconditioning

Originally Posted by wallstreet

A member posted an off site FYI by a third party; maybe from Renn., regarding the restoration of the CE. Technician mentioned it took about 4.5 hours and I believe he mentioned Stabnilant. Please repost the link.
Thank you
G-man

[Mrmerlin]

you will probably find the original key under one of the front seats after you remove them to do cleaning or inspection or carpet swap

[wallstreet]

I am removing 'extra ' wiring.
I asked previous for identification of the silver box on the floor and the 'handset/mic' devise. I beleive the handset devise(no name) is the remains of a cell phone. Antenna on rear glass w/ coax fitting at both ends and the handset end w/ serial port connector in rear.
I removed all of the 'phone ' sustem.

Silver Blaupunkt (9xxxxx028) box on pass. side swell has an a radio antenaa connection which connects to OEM antenna at rear of car. There are three wires/yellow(memory backup), blue(antenna trigger). black(ground) "spliced (aftermarket style)" into the OEM harness going to a black radio connector also spliced to OEM wiring. I removed ALL of the radio connections. This black plastic connector w/ phono plugs etc is Blaupunkt CR1 786 034 0 and a black metric radio box which is a very tight fit into the radio opening. Maybe if I remove the mask it would fit. There is also a DIN connector connected from the silver box to a Blaupunkt cable 'CR1 786 029 0' runnig from under th pass seat. I can not at present trace where is goes from under seat.
Could be rear speakers(?).

I followed someones advise and corrected ALL the fuses to size and placement. I removed the 'not used' (1984 schematic) fuses placed by PO. There is OEM wire (red w/ wt) from under the CE which is cut and another red/wt plus a plain wht are wire nutted together. The white wire has a crimp female connect.; might have then been installed to CE.
There could be a loose red/wt wire end.
Where does 'third red/wt come from?

The "O" slot is w/o gang connector or cover. There is a large red wire w/ a pink wire spliced on. I removed the pink wire. Appears red wire plugs in above relay at approx "N/O"

I see some relays are misplaced with other numbers which could be incorrect or superceded.

Last, I installed a used battery for testing. It is charged. I removed the negative cable and installed a miliamp meter in line. The draw was 10 ma. After reoving a couple added wires from the fuse block it dropped to 5ma. The hatch was open. no light bulbs even installed. I partially closed the hatch and the meter flucuated from 10 ma to 5 ma. Movement of hatch causes meter to move There could be a draw from the hatch release. I disconnected wires at the hatch release hut did not see much change.
Maybe 5 ma is not that bad.
Anyone else try a draw w/ meter?

G-Man