'79 928 clutch removal

[Rupesy]

Does anyone have a set of instructions, tips, or pics for removing the clutch. I have the manual, but its not as clear as I would like. I'm good up to the point of getting the collar removed. I've worked on clutches before, just not one like this. I know it won't be a problem after I go through it one time.

Thanks.

[153bigblock]

Originally Posted by Rupesy

Does anyone have a set of instructions, tips, or pics for removing the clutch. I have the manual, but its not as clear as I would like. I'm good up to the point of getting the collar removed. I've worked on clutches before, just not one like this. I know it won't be a problem after I go through it one time.

Thanks.

I will look for a good write up, but here are a few tips.

Make sure you pull the intermediate shaft out of the pilot bearing before you remove the flywheel bolts. Otherwise, the intermediate shaft will hang everything up.

Watch your face! once the flywheel bolts are out and the shaft is removed from the pilot bearing, that whole assembly can fall on your face.

Make sure you use the special grease from Porsche to lubricate all intermediate shaft surfaces, guide tube and shaft/TT clamp/collar.

You will need to pre-load the pressure plate if it is not new or pre-loaded before you install the clutch pack back in the car. Otherwise, you will have a very difficult time installing flywheel bolts. I used bent nails (into a U) and a c-clamp to pre-load the pressure plate.

In case you are buying a mix of parts from various sources, the clutch parts for a 78 - 79 are very specific to those model year clutch assemblies and different from the 80-86 DD clutch cars. It only takes a few MM's to cause the clutch to not engage properly. So, buy your TO bearing, discs, etc. from someone who knows the difference. Ask me how I know?

You will need to adjust the H-tabs on the intermediate plate after install to allow for a complete release of the clutch pack or at least test for it.

Replace the nylon release arm bushing on the bell housing.

It is a good time to replace your clutch master, slave and blue hose for longevity.

Michael

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by 153bigblock

Watch your face! once the flywheel bolts are out and the shaft is removed from the pilot bearing, that whole assembly can fall on your face.
l

+1 or chest, depending on your orientation. First time I did mine I had all the bolts out and was just relaxing underneath and decided to start poking seams with a screwdriver. wham, the whole assembly fell out onto my chest, lucky it was only a few inches but still. not fun

[Rupesy]

So the clutch did not just drop out like I expected. It looks like it is getting stuck at the top where the lever is normally attached to the ball. I am definitely off the ball but can't seem to wiggle this thing into the right position to get it down. I did put the shaft out of the pilot bearing. I am getting a quarter of the way down and getting hung up. Help!

[Rupesy]

Took another closer look and it appears that the ball has about 1/4" of threads. This may be what is causing the lever to hang up there. Is the ball supposed to be totally threaded in or is it meant to be adjustable? How can I turn it back in?

[Rupesy]

yep, found some posts on accessing the ball by taking out the air cleaner. Tried to turn it back in and it did not want to go so I figure another ingenious act by a PO or his mechanic. Took the ball out and the hole was partially stripped. Ran a tap through it and now it goes in all the way.

There was no evidence that the bushing even existed which I believe all this may be the source of all the issues I have had lately. Once I got the ball out the clutch dropped easily. Also found my other problem - PILOT BEARING! Totally disintegrated.

Well, I have the bushing and a new bearing so going to get that installed today. Clutch actually looks in good condition so I am not going to mess with it at this time. Might be back on the road today.

[Rupesy]

Any suggestions on getting the release lever to go over the ball socket bushing? I read most people had success with putting the bushing on the ball first and then pushing the release lever over the bushing. Not going as easily as I thought.

[153bigblock]

Did you preload the pressure plate? If the pressure plate is pre-loaded, the release arm moves very easily. Once you release the pressure plate, you will be best served holding the release arm up and on the bushing while you turn the crank to put in flywheel bolts. That way the release arm stays in position. I was able to hold the arm in place and turn the crank by my lonesome.

[Rupesy]

I preloaded it before I took it out and left it that way for re-intstall. I can get the lever into position without a problem. I just can't get the arm to snap onto the ball. I put the bushing onto the ball first since it looked like many people did it that way. It took me several tries with a clamp just to get the bushing over the ball it was so tight so I am thinking that that is the right way to go. However, now I can only get the arm to go over the bushing half way and exercising the release lever didn't give it enough force to pop in. I can get two prybars back there from the top side, but it isn't helping either.

[153bigblock]

I get now. Sorry. As long as it is positioned, the slave will pop it in when you have a pedal.

[Opelotus]

There should be a very small hole drilled in the back of the release lever (at least on MY '84) where the bushing slides into it. It allows air to escape as you slide the lever onto the bushing otherwise you are just compressing the air since the bushing is a snug fit into the lever. Happened to me, the hole was cakes with junk. Poked it out with a pick and the lever went right on (bushing does indeed go on the ball first). If you haven't already, tighten all the clutch bolts, I was able to get my lever on with everything else tight. Preloading the pressure plate with spacers slightly thicker than what was recommended in the WSM made reinstallation much easier too.

[Rupesy]

Thanks for the tip on the hole. I saw the hole there an assumed it was not blocked. I inspected it tonight and see that the fact that there was no bushing at all has caused that hole to get blocked. I will clean it out and give it another try.

[Rupesy]

Thanks for the tip on the hole! Cleaned it out and it went on without much trouble. Clutch is in and everything is working fine, however, I am noticing some vibration at the higher rpms. I did notice that the torque tube shaft moved when I pushed on it. I think there should be no play at all. I believe I am going to have to replace or refurbish the torque tube bearings at some point.

[Rupesy]

OK, Here are some pics with some hints and tips.

The first part is getting the collar back. Saw lots of posts with first timers (like me) struggling with this. I had only loosened the bolts and the collar would not budge. After searching posts, I found the trick to be removing both bolts entirely. Slipped right back without an issue.

A good time to check the torque tube play. Assuming there should be no play at all, replacing or refurbishing this will need to be soon. I found quite a bit of play.

You can see some shine my intermediate shaft which should not be there. We are going to find out what that is shortly.

[Rupesy]

Nothing unusual here. Just unbolting the guide tube and marking the clutch. This was a remove and investigate operation this time. The only this I would suggest here is to mark with a paint marker rather than a permanent marker. Its all I had at the time, but greasy hands will wipe it right off smooth metal surfaces.

[Rupesy]

Next step is to pre-load the clutch (per Micheals tips in an earlier post). I used a regular crowbar to release the clutch and insert u shaped nails I made. The manual says 4mm thick. I think the nails I had were 3-4mm and worked OK, however, I was not replacing clutch disks, so I don't know how much the distance is important. Obviously I had some issues getting the "U" part around, but this way worked fine and got the job done. Initially they stuck out too far and got hung up on the housing and I had some trouble spinning the clutch. Was fine after I hammered them closer. You have to do this 3 places.

[Rupesy]

Now the fun part. Getting it down. Per previous recommendations I used a jack to get under the clutch to avoid any gear teeth marks in the the old chest! This is where I got hung up for a while. I took the 6 bolts out to remove the pressure plate. Pulled the intermediate shaft out of the pilot bearing per earlier recommendation. My clutch did not have any pins to knock out like the manual instructs for some years. My lever arm did not have a bushing so it flopped back an forth. I figured it would just drop, but I could not get it down. Now, if a bushing still existed, I would say the next step might be to open the hood and remove the air cleaner for easy access to the pivot ball bushing. I imagine this would be the easiest way to pop it off and there is plenty of room. Now the reason I could not get mine down was because the lever arm was not able to get past the pivot ball. After investigating I found the reason - sloppy work by PO. I'm not sure why, but there was no bushing and the ball was adjusted out. Well, it appears that someone stripped the threads and couldn't get it in further. I was able to get it out, re-tap the threads (yes, there was just enough room for the tap and a small wrench to turn it rather than the tap holder tool). I left the pivot ball out and the clutch just dropped right out.

[AirtekHVAC]

Nice pics. Good work!

[Rupesy]

And then I found this...or didn't find! Glad I had already ordered a pilot bearing. The inside of the bearing came off the intermediate shaft fairly easily with a bearing puller, however, I didn't have anything laying around that would work for the OD of the bearing stuck on the flywheel. I saw that someone used a dremmel and cut it into several pieces to get it out. That worked pretty well.

[Rupesy]

So here is the part that kind of boggles me no matter how many times I read about adjusting the intermediate plate. These pictures were from before I took it out. You can see the "H" clips and small gap on either side. I don't have any problems with clutch release so I have to assume that the position it is in is OK. When I had the clutch out I messed around with the intermediate plate and it seemed like it moved freely and it rebounded when I pushed down on it. I didn't see where you could adjust anything. When I got everything installed again, I took another look at this area and it looked just like before I took it out. It didn't seem like I could move anything either so I left it alone. It seems like this plate should move back and forth and automatically adjust itself so why all the talk about adjustment? It seems like the minute you would release and engage the clutch it will move where it wants anyway. Comments please!