There's always something..

[riber.bentsen]

Maybe you have the wrong air filter box? There should be a short, fat pipe coming off the bottom of the pass. side intake tube (not the flexi-thingy) which should be directly above this rubber hose when you mount the box.

[camo]

You mean from HERE?
If I'm not mistaken, that's where the OTHER hose goes, the flexible one. And that's the only place I can see on the AFB. And it's the same AFB that came off.. Sorry if I'm confusing or not getting something simple.

P.S. the cigarette butts aren't mine

[neil30076]

I have not seen it on the side like that, but that's where it goes, as Riber said, maybe wrong filter box.

[camo]

OK! I believe I've gotten that taken care of now, thanks to you two

New problem. I need to know how to adjust fuel pressure and idle. I'm getting 32 PSI fuel pressure and it's supposed to be 42. Any ideas?

I'll also be googling it, but i'm running out of time so I might get a quicker answer here

[Danglerb]

82 Ljet the fuel pressure is set by fixed regulator relative to the manifold pressure (holds the pressure across the injector constant). Idle adjust is a big screw on the front of the throttle body.

[camo]

Ok, thanks Danglerb!

[camo]

What is the working fuel pressure supposed to be?

[neil30076]

Bosch manual says 2.5 bar = 36.75 psi, so you are a little low.

[camo]

Ok, thanks neil.
The guy working on my car has given up. So I'm towing it to a shop to have it finished.
Everything is back together, it'll start but will not idle. It sounds GREAT when its revved up (besides sounding really rough), but it idles VERY rough and eventually dies. You can hear a huge vacuum leak, but he's checked everywhere and can't locate it.

[neil30076]

Check the large O ring where the MAF plugs into the main throttle body. It probably not seated properly and leaking.
try this, take a spray bottle with water, gently mist it down towards the o-ring, if it's leaking it will suck in water fast and you will know it! Don't overdo the spray, and keep it away from the 6 pin connector on the MAF. Was the throttle body removed? That can be a big problem if not reset properly. Also spray the mist around the rubber tubes connecting the throttle body to the inlet tubes, may be a big leak there. DO NOT let someone who does not know the 928 try to fix it, you are on that slippery slope to disaster. Do you have the vacuum line diagrams and have you checked them out to be sure they are exactly correct? Use a piece of rubber tube held to you ear as a probe to listen for and pin point the leak, if it's that bad should be easy to find.

[Opelotus]

BTW that hose for the air pump diverter valve should mount to the underside of the air filter top cover, not the lower half.

[camo]

Neil, thanks for your thorough response. We did get the MAF seated correctly (after several attempts). But I ended up having it towed to a shop as I don't have time to spend on it right now and I need it to get to school. Sadly, nobody in this area knows anything about the 928, but The shop its at has done extensive work for me before ( and my dads Corvette) and I have been happy with it. So far they've found 2-3 vacuum leaks and the guy who put my injectors back had like 2 of them seated incorrectly and a couple o-rings in wrong. something like that.


Opelotus, I was able to eventually figure that out too. But thanks just the same

[neil30076]

What area are of western oregon you in? There are a few good owners in OR, WA that could help, maybe i can help you find one...

[camo]

Benton county.
There are actually quite a few owners I've seen around here! But haven't been able to contact any of em.

[camo]

I learned something today.. The 928 is fast. I was going 25 and the speed limit changed to 35 so I "gave it some gas" and sped up to 35 (it was actually 36 but don't tell anyone), and it put me back in my seat. Of course there's only so much you can do in a lot of traffic, I'll have to take it out somewhere and really push it.

Got it back from the shop about 4:30 and it turns out the guy doing the work for me previously had seated 3 injectors incorrectly and there were a couple vacuum leaks. Then when that was all fixed the brake lights wouldn't work so we replaced the switch, then my stupid "Brake pr. (!)" light came on again and the sensors the guy replaced a couple a months ago were once again completely severed. So i'll be suffering with those stupid flashing lights until I have the chance to replace them again. Or I can just disconnect my battery for a few minutes every day.

Anyway, the thing runs AMAZINGLY! It sounds (and feels) so great when it accelerates. However, it was really rough when I started it at nine after a three hour class. But i can live with that being that it clears up pretty quick.

[camo]

Anyone know how long/hard to replace brake wear sensor? Maybe where I can get instructions?
I gotta do it tomorrow and have a VERY limited amount of time to do it.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by camo

Anyone know how long/hard to replace brake wear sensor? Maybe where I can get instructions?
I gotta do it tomorrow and have a VERY limited amount of time to do it.

After removing your wheel. About 2 minutes.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by MPDano

After removing your wheel. About 2 minutes.

If you are very careful you can remove the sensors without breaking. I put a little PB Blaster on them, then used a small screw driver and gently pried them out. After installing the new pads, I cleaned the sensors and pushed them back in the new pads. Make sure you clean the rotors of any oils.

[camo]

Hah, OK thanks guys. I just replaced both and one is broken again. Pelican parts sent me one and they're waiting on a picture.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by camo

Hah, OK thanks guys. I just replaced both and one is broken again. Pelican parts sent me one and they're waiting on a picture.

Yes, very easy to break when removing and installing. Maybe a little diaelctric grease to get it to slide in easier.