Axle Nut of Death

[Crumpler]

Wanted: advice, condolences, or better mojo to remove 32 MM axle nut for CV work.


PB Blaster, breaker bar, and profanity used with little or no effect.

Time travel to pre-rusted state in 1986 considered and rejected...experienced 1980's once, that was enough.

I was going to pack it again tonight with PB Blaster and try to get under with floor jack to leverage bar in a.m., but any wisdom from you cool cats would be appreciated.
Dave.

[Mrmerlin]

first a dremel with a wire brush wouldnt hurt to clean the threads ,
you should put the wheel back on then then with the center cap off ,
drive to the truck repair facility ,
have then use the 1 inch gun to remove the nut,
then snug it back up then go home and remove the nut

[Pete R]

If you can't do Merlins suggestion. A bigger breaker bar with a pipe on the end worked for me. My problem was keeping the wheel from turning. I took an old brake rotor and welded 2 arms on it. I slid it over the studs. The wheel would only spin until the arms hit the ground.

[Mrmerlin]

with the breaker bar put the wheel back on, with the center cap removed,
then put the socket on the nut then stand on the bar

[szyzygy]

I removed mine on my 911 about 4 weeks ago - used a breaker bar with a hollow pipe extension I picked up at the hardware store as an extension. Give it an extra 2-3 ft and pull up. viola.

good luck getting it torqued again with the castellated nut and cotter pin lined up. seriously, good luck

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by szyzygy

I removed mine on my 911 about 4 weeks ago - used a breaker bar with a hollow pipe extension I picked up at the hardware store as an extension. Give it an extra 2-3 ft and pull up. viola.

good luck getting it torqued again with the castellated nut and cotter pin lined up. seriously, good luck

we don't have those. It's just a torque, a big one, but just a spec none the less. I have a 250ft lb wrench and it's not enough, So I made an extension that effectively doubles it torque, so what ever I set it at it's x2. It basically goes to 500ft lbs now

[Crumpler]

Thanks you guys, I really do appreciate the help.
I just got rust off with dremel. I will see what I can make happen this weekend.

Pete, do you have any pics of that armed franken-rotor that you made? I'm impressed!
Dave.

[Danglerb]

PB is good, but maybe try some CRC Freezeoff (something like that) and a good air impact.

[dtw]

Mine ate two separate half-inch breaker bars. 1" wrench with long handle did the job without drama, though.

[Landseer]

Here's mine ---

3/4 socket / wrench with a little cheater bar.... I think its schedule 80 aluminum.







To torque, I apply about 50 lbs of weight to the bar at about 6 1/4 feet from the nut.

[harborman]

Also try putting some tension on the braker bar and give it a good hit with large hammer. Sometimes a good hit can brake the nut free.

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by Crumpler

Thanks you guys, I really do appreciate the help.
I just got rust off with dremel. I will see what I can make happen this weekend.

Pete, do you have any pics of that armed franken-rotor that you made? I'm impressed!
Dave.

[928gene928]

Dave,
I have found that a 3/4" drive impact wrench works wonders when removing axle nuts. Most folks don't have one available, but it will do the job quite easily. Perhaps you could ask a truck service to loosen it up for you?

[Landseer]

That right there is very cool.

Originally Posted by Pete R

[Crumpler]

I have one word for the rotor...sweet.
Pete, you are the Phil Remington of New Hampshire.
Does it have a name? It should!

I was able to get the axle off this morning. Thanks again for the help!
In the end it came loose with a much longer bar, but the PB blaster probably did most of the work overnight.

It looks a little rough doesn't it. I also noticed two of the hex bolts were loose when I was getting it out...nice.

[AirtekHVAC]

I will be doing the same job soon...good thread.

[Pete R]

lol, thanks guys. I can't weld but I have a guy that welds where I work. I'm always bringing stuff and telling him to attach thinks. He stopped questioning stuff a while a go. Are you guys just doing axles or wheel bearings too?

[Danglerb]

No need to weld, drill two holes in a "thing" to fit over two lugs, piece of pipe, bar stock, etc. Drill to fit the lug nut so you don't bugger the threads, and snug it down to normal torque spec.

Most modern 1/2 air impacts have serious torque, 700 ftlbs is common, 3/4 is more like a 1000 ftlbs, but I suspect they will get most people into trouble isn't needed often enough for most to own one. 1/2 is small enough to get used most of the time, unless you have a "good" 3/8 which these days has enough torque to suit most jobs and is lighter and smaller.

Harbor Freight Earthquake is both cheap and powerful.

Problem with a breaker bar is that most have WAY too much flex so that hitting one with a hammer is almost useless. Better to use a shorter slug wrench.

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

No need to weld, drill two holes in a "thing" to fit over two lugs, piece of pipe, bar stock, etc. Drill to fit the lug nut so you don't bugger the threads, and snug it down to normal torque spec.

I tried something similar to that at first, but I don't think I had the materials to make it work. If I was going to drive all the way to work to make something I was going to be sure it worked. The arms don't need to be 1/4" stainless steel either

[Fixer]

I always use my big compressor and impact wrench to rattle it free. If you have a compressor buy one. Sorry Danglerb just posted the same.