Ignition Switch Replacement -
 

My ignition switch had begun acting up in Miss Purdy and would also intermittently not return to the run position after the engine had started. 1st I removed the lower sheet metal cover (two screws) just under the instrument pod and decided to see if I could replace the ignition switch without a major tear down.

After disconnecting the battery ground terminal, I then removed the electrical connector plug from the back of the ignition switch assembly. Then (for some room to work) I pulled the lower right rectangular connector from the bottom of the instrument cluster. This is seen when looking straight up just beside the ignition switch. Finally I pulled the two pin connecter from the intensive washer button by the drivers right knee. With all these connectors tucked out of the way - it was time to get serious.
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There are only two flat tip machine screws that attach the electrical half of the ignition switch to the mechanical key/tumbler half and you can clearly see one of these screws with the lower metal pod cover removed. (Note: I'd replace these two flat tip screws with Phillips head screws for much easier ignition switch replacement next time) I used a small flat box end ratchet wrench (1/4" - 3/8") and a flat tip bit to remove the lower ignition switch screw. The flat tip bit was held securely in the 1/4" end of the ratchet box end wrench with a thin piece of old rubber glove. Once the screw was turning freely, I used a second flat tip bit like a short screw driver for the final few turns by hand.
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The top screw was a little more difficult but was loosened using a regular 1/4" drive ratchet and a 1/4" socket with a flat tip bit (again) held in place using a thin piece of rubber. Once the top screw was loose, I used the 1/4" socket with the flat tip bit like a short screw driver for the final screw removal. Make sure to use a flat tip bit that is small enough to easily fit down into the screw slot. I had started off with a bit that was slightly too thick for the screw.....

With the old switch pulled out, I applied a dab of the yellow 3M non-hardening upholstery sealant to the screw/mounting holes of the new switch. This sealant stays soft and sticky enough to keep the two attaching screws in position but sufficiently pliable to let you easily turn the screws during the final installation. A small alignment pin (electrical switch half) and hole (mechanical half of the assembly) makes sure everything goes together correctly oriented. The center cross piece (with the key in the off position) will now also be aligned right.
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Once the lower screw has been started to hold the new switch half in place - use the 1/4" socket with the flat tip bit as a small screwdriver to start the upper screw. If you cup the fingers of your left hand over the top of the switch assembly you will feel a slight groove or trough in the switch housing that leads to the upper screw. The final step is a little slow going and is pretty much by feel, but use a light touch of your finger tips to determine when the bit engages the screw slot. Note: Here is where the Phillips head screws would have made this step easier....

At this point check to make sure both screws are tight and there is no movement seen between the electrical switch half and the mechanical half of the assembly. Reconnect the ignition switch electrical plug, reinstall the rectangular instrument cluster connector (make sure the plastic electrical film straddles it's card edge before the connector is pushed back into place), the two pin intensive switch, lower metal pod panel - and the battery ground terminal. Start up your new car and take her for a spin.

Good Luck, Michael :)

nice write up Mike

Thanks mike...this is on my list!

This belongs in the "Common Fixes" thread if you don't mind doing some cuttin n pastin. Then I'll index it.

Common Fixes -
 

Hey Dano - Moved a copy over to the "Common Fixes Thread" - hopefully the write-up is clear enough to follow. Please feel free to chop it up or make any changes you think appropriate.

Michael :)

I am replacing the cam in the eSwitch. Before I do, what can I expect to find? Any pieces going to come flying out?

And thanks for all the help here guys. Much appreciated. Any advice on this repair?

Very nice write up!

I know, very very nice write up.

I disassembled the switch. Turned out I had the wrong replacement parts. Then my buddy reminded me he has a parts car. Bam, problem solved.

Now onto the next piece in the ignition chain. The switch is not the problem.

I was following this very helpful process to replace my switch. Unfortunately the lower screw head broke off so the screw threads are stuck in the lock cylinder. I guess this short became a bigger issue for me. I think it would have broken off even if I had the whole cylinder out. Now I have to learn how to get the switch and cylinder out. :(.