Also, check out my "it's alive" thread.....I had a no start issue...drove myself bonkers, only to discover the PO had wired a push button start to bypass a faulty ignition switch...the big problem was that the push button was broken off/missing...my project was $650....I'm up to about $1500 now...only about $200 away from being able to say fuel system and brake system, check!

Ok Still having the same issue. I have cleaned the following grounds: from the motor to the frame, two on passenger side valve cover, two grounds above the fuse box. ground on steering column, Cleaned and inspected 14 pin connector. I cleaned the connections on what appears to be a jump post in front of the 14 pin connector. am I missing any?

I also cleaned connections in the fuse box and replaced fuses. I also replaced the starter relay. Starter still wont turn.

I also checked the voltage at the battery (12) and at the starter (11.7) I then Jumped the positive cable on the starter to the small connection on the starter. and the engine turned over very strong. not sure where to go from here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1254170178.jpg

Did you try and jump 30 and 87 using a couple spades and wire?

Neutral Switch -
 

Hey Mayoman - It looks like you are making progress and have eliminated some of the common No-Start issues. Since you know that the starter is good - have you checked to make sure that the park/neutral switch on the transmission is closed. You might 1st try moving the gear selector shift lever around to see if the starter circuit spins the motor over. If this does not work - jumper the switch to eliminate it from the troubleshooting process.

Keep us posted - Michael :)

DPDano I jumped the 30 and 87 pins, a while ago, but it was up under the dash where the alarm module was plugged in.

JK McDonald, funny you mention the park/neutral switch. the cable from the shifter to the selector is disconnected and when I first looked at the car the PO showed me how to reach up and move the selector. we did this in order to get the car to turn over and it did. I had reach up and move the selector to take the car off the trailer and put it in the shop. I put it back in park and have moved it back and forth to see if that was the issue with no luck.

when I move the selector I do it by feel. where is the switch located?

In addition to verifying the tranny/park switch is not a problem. You have also verified your voltage, relays are ok, and that the stater spins when directly jumped. The voltage you specify seems a bit low at 12v I would like to see 12.4v or so and you should not drop 0.3v between the Bat and Starter...that is accross at most a 3 foot run of 10-12mm copper stranded wire.

All that aside, the starter spins but not under the key...the pin 14 wire (4mm Yellow) at the infamous 14 PIN connector is the "50" wire that engages the starter from the ignition switch Start position. It goes from the starter to pin 14, then to the control panel plug/location O5, then on to the Ig switch...check out the continuity of this circuit and assure all is good; bad things can happen in the wire harness where this wire travels down to the starter. Also the Ig switch would be verified after you check your continuity

Isn't there a ground under the motor that connects to just behind the front passenger wheel? Large strap. Might check and clean that one as well. I'm going through the same thing with my car but haven't had a chance to check all the grounds yet.

Ignition switch
 

I'm still chasing wires. today I followed the yellow wire from the starter to the 14 pin. I jumped power to the pin and the car turned over nicely. I then put the 14 back together and followed the yellow wire back to the fuse box. the connection at the box was not very good so I fixed it and still no turn over.
I pulled the yellow wire off the fuse panel and jumped it and the car turned over!

So I believe I am starting to isolate the issue. The other day I reported that that the starter Relay was "clicking" when I turned the key. that is not the case. I installed a new starter relay and still nothing. Am I looking at a new ignition switch?

Oh Also I inspected the park/ Neutral switch and it is clean with no corrosion. I may need to try and jump that to see if the switch is working.

Dan

what pins do I jump with the park Neutral switch?

The horn issue was solved. I put in a new relay and now the horn works as it should.

Per my earlier post....my ignition switch is bad, which is why someone put the push button start on...they clipped the yellow wire behind the pod, just before it got to the switch....doing away with the push button and putting in a new switch is on my list....

Good find...yellow wire didn't go to the switch...odd they would put in a push button...I used probably the same amount of time replacing my switch. I hope that is all that is in your way.

Does the Ig switch still engage the Run condition when you use your key, such that all Run functions (15 bus) are working? From some of what you have written it sounds so.

Mayoman : Electrical can be Tedious USE " dielectric grease "
to rewire the " Start " wire to the switch is the way to go > assuming the switch is good .
a temporary start button is fine to sort out the car .
All the 928 Relays Connections in to the socket on the Fuse Board are Cra* .
the Relay Prongs rust to the wire connections in the socket and make removal all but impossible quite often . Then you must brake out the Relay off the Board to remove it . This may cause irreparable damage to the Socket .
Most Often you can use ( Switch ) a Non Used Socket to replace the damaged one
( they Pop out the front side )
remove 2 bolts to get to the back side of the Panel Board to remove wires to sockets .
Evan New Relays are often very hard to remove from the Socket on the board .
Relay Conductivity : if the wires / connections have "corrosion " most often at the connection inside the Socket you must remove the wire to clean them off . Crimp the connection down tight again and test the fit before reinstalling the wire in Socket . Back side of wire connection has a small Tang when bent out holds it in the socket so re-bend that out a bit before reinstalling in Socket . I Strongly recommend you use " Dielectric grease " I use Permatex dielectric grease a small tube about $5 I Use a A Cue Tip to apply to relay prongs
This well give you Conductivity that works well . This well Allow you a easier removal of Relay's in the future . I always insert a Pry Under the Relay , this sometimes requires removal of a additional Relay to get to the one you want . ( small flat screwdriver )
You May be surprised to find all that was wrong with a Relay was poor Conductivity.

Yea, everything appears to work with key on, and button pushed....ya never know, thought the OP might have had the same mechanic as mine did...lol.....Leo is the one that got me to that point, had me jump the hot post to the yellow in the 14 pin, that turned her over, then tracing backwards from there...the push button the PO put in was broken off, but once I saw the yellow wire cut, out of the corner of my eye, while upside down, it was spliced to a red, which went to a housing that once had a push button.

I'm sure people wire in kill switches, and all kinds of crap.......hope you get it sorted soon!

Jump #14 off the 14 pin connector to the positive post. That eliminates a lot of wiring, car should crank. With key in run position it may even start

Hi Mayoman,
when done cleaning all of your grounds be sure to seal them up from corroding again
with dielectric grease.

Dielectric grease is neutral and forms an excellent 02 block. It also lubricates but without any specific bulk. Great for multiple plug blocks, relay contacts, slide contact switches, rubber lube, speedo cables when combined with graphite, etc.

It is also used as a heat conductor when some electronic components are mounted on surfaces to dissipate heat. It is non-conductive, but when you slide the connectors together there is metal-to-metal contact and the grease gets displaced but the area around connector is protected from moisture. If the grease was conductive it would be too easy to get "bleed" from one pin to another in a connector if the grease got hot and liquified and spread. DO NOT ever grease an oxygen sensor connector as the sensor is vented through the wiring on many sensors and the grease will contaminate sensor over time and it will cease to function.

Its use in spark plugs:

Set all spark plug gaps to the same range. This is crucial for both mileage and engine output (power). Once the gap has been set to within spec. remove the spark plug from the socket and apply a small amount of dielectric tune up grease to the insulator (the ceramic part of the plug).

Use your finger to spread the dielectric grease around the ceramic portion of the spark plug. This will help maintain a dry environment for the spark plug to wire connection. The grease will also make reinstallation of the plug wires easier.

Be sure that you only use the appropriate grease during spark plug installation. Furthermore, be sure to read all product manufacturer's directions for proper application.

Next, apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside the spark plug wire. This will also help with proper fitment of the spark plug wire over the spark plug terminal during re-installation.

Do not use too much grease inside of the spark plug wire - it can be messy during your next spark plug change.

Good luck with your new Porsche!-Matt:)