Winter upgrades- motor coming out

Leland Pate · 10-03-2005, 04:35 PM

Well I'm all geared up to perform some serious heart surgery on the 993 here in a few weeks.
I am so excited I can hardly stand it.

Here is a short list of what I've ordered/ordering:

Light weight flywheel/RS clutch (from Rennsport Systems)
Power Steering belt
RS short shift lever
Rear main seal (leaking)
Plugs, caps, rotors, wires
Clutch slave cylinder
RS motormounts
And a new transmission

Speaking of the transmission... At first I was looking into buying a G50/21 from Gert or Harald but the prices didn't pan out. After speaking with Steve W. and Chris Cervelli, I have officially bit the bullet and am having a custom gearbox built by Chris at Premier Motorsports.

I'm getting a G50/34 with custom gears, steel synchros, and a four plate RSR limited slip differential.

This coupled with the Rennsport Systems DME chip, LWF, and RS clutch should give me a pretty fun little C2.

I'm using the base Auto Skills Shop to remove the engine/transmission. They have a nice facility with a four post lift and 700 lb. capacity hydraulic lift table.
I'm using the factory manual as my guide for removing the engine. There are a few areas I'm uncertain of... the manual glosses over disconnecting the shift rod and throttle linkage, but I guess I'll figure it out as I go.

I've also looked in vain for something in the manuals that details the replacement of the Power steering Belt. I've found some exploded view diagrams but no procedure for its replacement. Any advice you guys can give me in this regard would be much appreciated.

The release shaft and needle bearings also looks confusing to me but I'm hoping it makes more sense once I have parts in hand.
I have no special P-tools in my possession so I'll either have to do without or fab something up if and when needed.

The replacement of the RMS has me a little worried. Steve told me there is a spec in the manual for how deep the seal is pressed into the case. I have yet to find this in the manual. (again, any leads would be appreciated)

Also, can a standard 911 clutch alignment tool be used in place of the fancy Porsche alignment tool? In the past I've used a deep well socket as an alignment tool with good results.

Steve and I think I have a minor vacuum leak in the intake downwind of the MAF as I have somewhat of a low idle (500 at idle when warm).
I'd like to do some shade tree leak testing. I see in the factory manuals that they use a block-off plate with a valve stem attached to it to pressurize the system and check for leaks. Does anyone have any experience with rigging something for this?

My plan is to document and photograph the entire R&R of the engine and gearbox so I can write up a DIY on engine removal. Pelican parts has one for an older 911 engine, but not a 3.6.

Any additional tips and comments are welcome.
I can't wait.

JonT · 10-08-2005, 07:03 AM

Sounds like an impressive project Leland. Looking forward to your writeups. That will be one hot-rod 993 when you're done. Nice!

ChrisL · 10-10-2005, 03:31 AM

Leland,

I replaced my RMS about two years ago, and was told to recess it by 2 mm. Here's the Rennlist thread asking the same question:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=103081

I made a wooden 'punch' that I used to get the seal to the exact depth.

I purchased the correct alignment tool -- you are welcome to borrow it, just PM me.

Chris.

Leland Pate · 10-10-2005, 04:30 PM

Hey thanks for the replies guys.
I've got everything in hand, minus the new gearbox. I should have it by the 20th.

Chris, are you talking about the $$$$ Porsche kinematic alignment tool????
If so, I'd absolutely 'love' to borrow it. You could save me a 10 hr (round trip) drive to the nearest Porsche dealer in Calgary, Canada!
I'll send you a PM.

Lee

ChrisL · 10-10-2005, 05:32 PM

Sent you a PM -- I have the *slightly* less expensive clutch alignment tool. I didn't remove the engine -- precisely to save getting an alignment.

Chris.

Leland Pate · 10-10-2005, 08:01 PM

I thought about going that route, Chris.
But the thought of trying to uninstall/install the clutch release fork/shaft up in that tunnel absolutely terrifies me.

Maybe after this drop, I'll be familiar/confident enough to try the "tranny only" drop next time.

ChinSCoupe · 10-11-2005, 05:03 PM

I used the factory manual to drop my engine in my 964. Every thing becomes pretty evident once you get in there. If you need, I can send you that section of the manual.

The p/s belt is very easy once you remove the cover. you can slip the belt off, then unbolt the housing to replace the seal.

The release shaft and needle bearings are easy too. just work slowly and everything comes apart.

If you get stuck, send me a pm and I'll walk you through.

Colin

Speedster94 · 10-12-2005, 03:02 PM

hallo
If you make signs on the Adjusters on the rearaxle you dont have to align it . Take the Engine with the Tranny out , so you can do all things on the Engine you want . It is so much nicer to work on it when you have it on a Table , it is worth the extra 2 Hrs. or so . You should replace the Valvecover/ Chainhousing seals as well the rear main seal .
The belt is prtty easy to replace, just undo the black cover and you can pull it off , it is not tensed like a belt on the alternator ( doesnt need to be it is a Toothbelt )
Sorry we couldnt get together on a Gearbox , but the Dollar makes it really hard ,i am getting about 20% less as 2 Years ago ( in Euros ) and it is still 20 % more expensive ( in Dollar ) .
Dont worry , the whole operation is very straight forward and in the aftermath you will find its easier than the older Models .
harald